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Pierpont Leather - Official Affiliate Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by PierpontLeather, May 25, 2016.

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  1. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Location:
    Dallas, Texas
    Hi there,

    My name is Parker, and I am a leather craftsman from Dallas. I’ve spent the past three years of my life training, studying, and practicing the art of leather crafting by hand. Over this period of time, I’ve become somewhat obsessive in my practice, which inevitably led me to study and many of the English and French styles of leatherwork. I am extremely happy for the opportunity to join an amazing community here at StyleForum, and I look forward to answering any questions you may have.

    I am extremely passionate about this craft, and I hope to spend the rest of my days working with leather in some capacity. Recently, I’ve had the opportunity to learn leather craft from an ex-Hermes trained master craftsperson, who spent many years making the Kelly bag. Interestingly, I think that the most important thing I learned from my experience with her was the inherent charm that this type of work should have when crafted well. I hope to share some of that with the guys here on StyleForum.

    I’ll be periodically posting recent projects here to give you an idea of the type of work I do. I have patterns for almost everything, but I’m always looking to grow my repertoire. Please reach out if you have any odd orders, especially in exotic skins.

    I saw a tissue holder in bicolor alligator the other day, and I can’t stop thinking about it.

    Anyway…

    Feel free to post questions you have for me below. Please email me directly (info@pierpontleather.com) for any inquiries or custom requests. I’d be happy to help in any way I can. Additionally, you may visit my website, pierpontleather.com.
     
    4 people like this.
  2. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Dallas, Texas
    This is a cardholder made recently, with lemon chèvre and mocha lizard skin. [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Welcome, Parker.

    Cheers,

    Fok.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Location:
    Dallas, Texas
  5. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    [​IMG]

    Cardholder Prototype, Made with English Chèvre and linen thread.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2016
  6. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    A couple picture of a coin holder in soft Italian Veg Tan.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  7. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Location:
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    Long Wallet in Soft Italian Calf - made as a prototype

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  8. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

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    I would be interested in something like this but in a checkbook holder style. In other words, no card slots, just a very simple cover with a slot for the checkbook and perhaps a pen holder. I would be open as to the leather/ skin, but probably something that will wear beautifully and age well. Feel free to PM me with your thoughts and general pricing. Thanks!
     
  9. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Welcome, Parker. Nice to see another custom leather maker around these parts.

    Hmmm... I wonder who that former Hermes-trained Kelly bag maker might be, and if we've talked about her rather often here (haha j/k...)

    Hope to see more products, pictures, and info.

    In the long wallet, is the stitching toward the bottom-right intended to be thicker (double stitched?) than the rest. I realize it's a prototype, just curious why it's different than the other stitching.

    I'd also like to see some leather folders, thin document cases (a4 size), large-format leather envelopes, etc. One can never have enough of those in a wardrobe.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  10. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thank you, Prof! It's great to be part of the community here.

    (Bea is a gem, isn't she! I'm quite fond of her, and have a story or two about her -- amazing artisan, possibly a better teacher.)

    Hope to provide as much insight into the process as I can. I really love sharing the work I do with those that care, and it's truly a privilege to have that at our fingertips these days.

    Thick Stitching: There are a few different ways to end a line of stitching. What you pointed out above is one of them. It' serves as reinforcement at the end of the line of stitching. Sometimes you can see this type of reinforcement at the top of watch straps, belts, etc. The other ways of ending stitching exist to hide the doubled up stitching.

    A large format envelope was one of my first projects ever! Those are always fun to make. Maybe we can run through the design process on here bc I really should have a formal pattern for one.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    So, let's run through the creation of a leather notebook. I keep a B6 notebook on hand, as it's a convenient size that doesn't take up too much space on my workbench. I mostly use the notebook to document the things that I have learned that day, or to jot down ideas that happen mid-stitch.

    My goal with this design was to be able to scale it up to a larger size without issue. The features will change as size increases, but their basic construction would not. For instance, the left-hand side of this organizer will double as a gusseted cardholder to allow the whole piece to act as a travel wallet. I could also see this being very useful for a person that learns many names and exchanges business cards often.

    However, as the piece changed size, it's purpose would change too. An A4 notebook would best have the gusseted pocket open in the opposite direction, and a small flap/closure would be added to keep everything in order and make sure papers are not falling out. Additionally, because the gusseted pocket will grow to around 9'', the increased surface area would allow for other features - a previous client wanted a special pocket for his HP10IIB calculator, which still allowed room for a couple pilot g2 sized pen holders and a few card slots for business cards.


    PROGRESS PICS:

    Yesterday, I made a pattern for the B6 sized version and clicked the pieces out of green and yellow french chèvre.

    [​IMG]

    My original pattern. I'm using it to cut the inside lining. (cut 1/8'' larger all around and then cut exact later on.)

    [​IMG]

    Colors.

    [​IMG]

    Clicked!

    [​IMG]

    I love this leather, the grain and colors are just ridiculously beautiful.

    [​IMG]

    On to construction!!

    Pen slot first. I'm customizing this one to my Cross Tech 3+

    Previous to this picture I had [sanded, dyed, creased, waxed and polished] finished the edges of the larger pocket and pen slot piece multiple times.

    [​IMG]

    Now polishing the card slots before hand skiving them down to thickness.

    [​IMG]

    Edge inspection.

    [​IMG]

    End of day 1, day 2 is in progress!

    "Clean hands make clean work."
     
  12. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Quick Day two update:

    Full lining skived and installed.

    [​IMG]

    Gusseted Card Pockets during the edging process.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Day three is final assembly, edges, stitching, and finishing.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks good! Are you able to source leathers from the same places as AiP? Or where do you get your leathers?
     
  14. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I am able to source leathers from the same places that she does, but I don't.

    I source my goatskin (as seen above) from France, as it seems to be consistently of higher quality than anything else I can find. Part of the reason that I don't source the same leathers she does is because she only sources calfskin. I personally vastly prefer goatskin (for interiors and lining especially) -- it has one of the highest ratios of weight to tensile strength, which seems to make it pretty resistant to over-stretching on areas such as card pockets when it's tanned well. The specific type of goatskin you see above is most popularly known as Hermes' "Mysore." I really like it. It doesn't patina nearly as much as a lot of the other stuff I use, but it's seemingly impervious to light use, scratches, etc.

    The leathers I prefer (outside of exotics) include: Italian Vegetable Tanned Shoulders (Buttero), German Shrunken Calfskin (Hermes Fjord), the goatskin mentioned above, Chèvre de Coromandel (another Hermes goatskin), and Italian Box Calf.

    Less regular suspects include Novo Nappa, French Baby Calfskin, Softer Italian Calfskins, and Kangaroo Hide - all of which I love to work with, but are somewhat more difficult to stock reliably (I'm a really small fish to most of these tanneries).

    Exotics are another thing entirely, and are handled on a skin by skin basis depending on the size/color needed. Generally, I am able to get my hands on exotics without any issue.
     
  15. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Final Product - B6 Note Cover

    B6 happens to be the size of both my notebook, and one of my favorite books. I neglected to realize that this cover would be the same size as a few paperback books that I own.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]

    Bonus: finished watch strap with Notebook blurry notebook in progress.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    Beautiful work, sir!
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thank you, sir!
     
  18. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    New Project - Preparation for Assembly

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  19. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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  20. PierpontLeather

    PierpontLeather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Progress on the new project -- Slow going, but next week will be fun [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

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