Pictures from a few days in Naples (Updated... Solito, Formosa, Rubinacci).

[ctp120]

Thanks for posting the video.

Hearing the voice of someone you've only seen in pictures for 10+ years is a little surprising.

 

[P-K-L]

 I think they call that kind of pocket square.... dandyelegant!

 

[koolbear]

It's interesting, because their RTW accessories range in really out there stuff, but most of what you see hanging on the bespoke racks in various states of manufacture is grey and blue suits. Particularly in the London Store.

 

[Mark Lee Jin Yi]

@koolbear this is really a great thread, thanks for starting it!

I'm keen to see the final product of your solito, and if you don't mind, could you PM me to tell me how much you paid for it?

I'm very keen on getting a suit done by one of the neapolitan tailors. It would have to be a fairly formal suit as I will use it for work, and I am concerned that the solito might be just a little too droopy. What do you think?

I will meet Luigi in London on Friday and will speak to him about it as well. Other tailors i'm considering are Napolisumisura and Elia Caliendo. I'd appreciate if you guys could give your thoughts on which house style might be more appropriate for a more business suit!

Cheers

 

[Despos]

...

I just told them I wanted unpadded shoulders, with spalla camicia construction.  I didn't say anything about round-ness or straight-ness.  Gennaro doesn't speak any English, and I was pretty happy just letting him do his thing.  Luca certainly has very straight shoulders on the jackets I have seen him in.  They look padded to me also.
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Shoulders look more "straight" at the fitting stage and don't represent the finished look/effect. The basted fitting is to adjust balance and girth, and then the jacket is taken apart. The shoulder isn't worked much at this point and it's too early in the process to see what the finished shoulder will be.

The shaping of the canvass at the shoulder contributes to the finished look/shape of the shoulder regardless if you use a pad or no pad. Unpadded shoulders can appear structured and padded shoulders can appear very natural and soft. Spalla camicia gives a bit more structured look at the end of the shoulder and then you have a softer drape on the sleeve head

 

[89826]

Mariano seems in general a cool cat. But leaving his button-down collar unbuttoned is such a tired affectation.

 

[koolbear]

Having received the Rubinacci garment, I can confirm that the shoulders are definitely straighter than the Solito coat, which has a softer and rounder appearance. The chest canvas at the upper shoulder, where it meets the shoulder seam, is thicker than the Solito, and extends to just beyond the shoulder seam. I think this is part of the reason why the Rubinacci has a straighter shoulder line. My shoulder is definitely unpadded though in the final garment.

I've added some photographs quickly to show what I mean. The Rubinacci shoulder has some structure to it. You can see in this photography what I mean in a way.

 

[ThinkDerm]

looking forward to your continued updates

 

[poorsod]



Here are two examples. Newer one has a cleaner chest and more open quarters.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

This is a DB made by the Senior Formosa. Genarro put it on a manniquin for me to look at, but I unfortunately didn't take photos. It had a slightly old-Rubi feel from what I remember though.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

FWIW, AFAIK, Cappelii wears both Solito and Formosa -- both made by the seniors.

I recently had a fitting with Dionisio from Formosa. So far the coat seems to have reasonable fullness in the chest. However, the coat is going to be lengthened a bit. The pants are really lean. I have asked for them to be widened. What is interesting is that he circled some prominent areas such as my shoulder blades to add in fullness during stitching, not just doing ironing. He is also going to add in fullness to my calf area. Here is a picture of him marking the right leg to be rotated so that the crease falls correctly.

 

[Mark Lee Jin Yi]

Hey guys, in December i will be travelling to Naples to have a bespoke suit made. I have read a lot about the different tailors and I have narrowed my options down to Solito or Pirozzi. Could you give some advise please, in terms of the difference between the finish/quality as well as the difference in house styles please? I saw both masters' jackets in London, and I must say i thought the finesse in terms of finishing of the Pirozzi seemed to be a little better.

Help to decide between the two will be greatly, greatly appreciated!

 

[P-K-L]



Hey guys, in December i will be travelling to Naples to have a bespoke suit made. I have read a lot about the different tailors and I have narrowed my options down to Solito or Pirozzi. Could you give some advise please, in terms of the difference between the finish/quality as well as the difference in house styles please? I saw both masters' jackets in London, and I must say i thought the finesse in terms of finishing of the Pirozzi seemed to be a little better. 

Help to decide between the two will be greatly, greatly appreciated! 

You mean Pirozzi of Via Chiaia 197?
Domenico Pirozzi And this is not to be confused with his namesake who is not as good as him. He tailoring in Via Chiaia 197 in Naples?
@C&A has some COMMISSIONS there! All in the dandyelegant @Gianni Cerutti style!

 

[Mark Lee Jin Yi]



You mean Pirozzi of Via Chiaia 197?
Domenico Pirozzi And this is not to be confused with his namesake who is not as good as him. He tailoring in Via Chiaia 197 in Naples?
@C&A has some COMMISSIONS there! All in the dandyelegant @Gianni Cerutti style!

Hi no I was referring to Ninzio pirozzi. Gianni Ceritti's jackets seem to have a very prominent rope, I prefer the manica camicia...