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[pics] bespoke for a newbe--last minute alterations?

abl

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I'm hoping that this will work as a conservative law interview suit (I'm a younger guy, but not straight out of college). I had it made bespoke from a Bangkok tailor and I know virtually nothing about suits other than what I've been able to glean on this site over the past couple weeks (unfortunately, while the stitching on the suit seems good, I'm not convinced the tailor knew a ton either). Any suggestions for 11th hour alterations would be appreciated! My biggest concern is with the lapels--are they too big, and is that something that can be changed at this stage? Also, I don't have great range of motion in the arms, but my impression is that that's to be expected with well-fitted bespoke suits, and after the tailor unsuccessfully tried to make changes to allow me more movement several times, I think I'm giving up on that.

Thanks!!

 

teddieriley

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Originally Posted by abl
My biggest concern is with the lapels--are they too big, and is that something that can be changed at this stage? Also, I don't have great range of motion in the arms, but my impression is that that's to be expected with well-fitted bespoke suits, and after the tailor unsuccessfully tried to make changes to allow me more movement several times, I think I'm giving up on that.

Thanks!!


Lapel width is okay - not overly big. Your sleeves are a mess - very wrinkled. Don't think they are set or cut properly. On second look, they look too slim. As for range of motion - not sure what you mean. You're not meant to play basketball or tennis in your jacket, but you should not feel restricted moving your arms, including lifting them above your head. This may go to the point that your sleeves look too tight.

You should have stuck to RTW and having that properly tailored rather than going bespoke before you knew what you were getting into. Not a horrible first effort, but I think you would have achieved better results with a well fitting RTW suit.
 

abl

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It's a long story, but I didn't have a RTW option--it was bespoke or interviewing in my black men's wearhouse suit from high school for me. Any tips on how I can fix whatever's not working with the arms (I definitely feel a fair amount of pulling in the shoulders when I try to cross my arms, or lift them straight in front of me)? I showed the tailor a bunch of pictures of where armholes should be from this site as well as pictures of people lifting their arms in suits.
 

arc

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Not all that bad. It's bespoke in Bangkok so it's probably not much more costly than decent RTW at least.

Sleeves need pressed to be sure, but they might be a bit screwy. Hard to tell at this point. They are definitely too long. I don't think they're too narrow.

The torso looks like a pretty good conservative fit. In the future you might want to move the buttons a bit lower. The lapels may be a bit big for your fairly small size, but as is they're not a huge problem. Definitely better to err on the side of too big than too small for conservative styling.

Edit1: The problem you're having with raising your arms is probably because the arm holes are too big. In fact they look kind of huge from the back shot, but it's hard to tell. If you do a shot with your arms raised we can get a better idea, but I'm guessing the armholes are a couple inches low.

Edit2: The trou look too long as well. There's a lot of break going on even at your shins/knees. This could just be your stance though (or bad cut) since we can't see your feet.
 

abl

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too long as in I need to go to the tailor immediately and ask for them to be shortened by 1-2 cms, or just for future reference not ideal? I take it the button placement is not something that can be changed on this suit at this point, right?
 

arc

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Yeah, can't change buttoning point at this point.

I'd have the sleeves shortened now if I were you, but in Asia it's not that huge a deal since nearly everyone wears ridiculously badly fitting suits there from my experience in HK/Singapore. They're not offensively too long like a lot of what you see, it's just not ideal.

Ideally you want the sleeves to terminate near the break in your wrist such that you're showing about a half inch of shirt sleeve.
 

abl

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Thanks arc. I actually need the suit for OCI in the US (I'm just in Asia working for the summer), so standards are maybe a bit higher than that.

Can too-big or too-low armholes be fixed at this point? Do you think it's even worth risking that the tailor screws it up more here, or should I have him take in the sleeves/pants a centimeter or two, wear this for OCI, and then bring it to a US tailor in the hopes that they can fix whatever's wonky with the sleeve / armholes (how much will that cost? $100?)? I won't have any time to get the suit altered when I get back in the States, so whatever I leave here with has to at least be wearable for law firm interviews. I've tried explaining that the sleeves/armholes aren't quite right maybe 2-3 times already with no success.
 

arc

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Don't think you can do much about armholes, at least without recutting the jacket and sleeves pretty severely, but I wouldn't worry about it. You're not going to be dancing or high-fiving during an interview or anything like that.
Even in the US the sleeve length isn't that big a deal, but they're cheap enough to get fixed that you ought to go ahead with that. The main thing with conservative interview dress is to indicate that you understand social norms, and understand how a lawyer should not look. No one demands a really refined outfit (especially from an entry/lower level applicant), you just need to not stand out in a bad way. Their perspective is that as long as you have common sense with dressing professionally, the refinement can come later - you just need to look like you can be put in front of a client without looking like a dumbass (you don't look like a dumbass in the fit pic). Once the sleeves are pressed, and shortened, you'll look just fine. Worrying about your suit during the interview will do more damage than having a bad suit. Just be confident with it.
 

abl

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Thanks!

How would you say this suit rates in the RTW spectrum? I'm curious what sort of value I got for my money now.

Is it a solid Men's Wearhouse--it'll do, but not much more than that (and some might find it embarrassing). Is it a solid Brooks Brothers--will be adequate as a workhouse suit (it may not make any big statements about your ability to dress yourself, but that's not always a bad thing). Or, is it more of a solid Hickey Freeman--it'll be somewhat more than adequate as a conservative suit, and I'll be somewhat better dressed than the average interviewee (but not by any stretch the best dressed). I assume this suit probably doesn't rate any higher than that...
 

Despos

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You could try this yourself or when you are back to the tailor. At the center back seam just below the collar, pin the fabric 1/4' to 3/8" double. That means stick a pin thru the cloth, taking it in 1/4 to 3/8 on both sides of the center back seam. The pin will be in the direction of the seam. Move your arms with the jacket pinned and see if the jacket feels/moves better.

Something about the cut of this suit makes your head appear very rectangular. Maybe its the camera angle.
 

Maccimus

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If it is made of nice fabrics and didnt cost you too much, say, less than $500, it is very Okay. Just hem the sleeves.
You cant fix the armholes at this stage. You should have raised the issue in basted-fitting.
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by abl
Also, I don't have great range of motion in the arms, but my impression is that that's to be expected with well-fitted bespoke suits, and after the tailor unsuccessfully tried to make changes to allow me more movement several times, I think I'm giving up on that.

Thanks!!


False. You should be comfortable when moving in your suit.
 

JohnsNotHere

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
You should have stuck to RTW and having that properly tailored rather than going bespoke before you knew what you were getting into. Not a horrible first effort, but I think you would have achieved better results with a well fitting RTW suit.

This is great advice. Unless you have a peculiar frame, RTW with tailoring is the way to go.

Originally Posted by Despos
Something about the cut of this suit makes your head appear very rectangular. Maybe its the camera angle.

 

bowtielover

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The suits dosent look that bad, the sleeves could do with a good pressing and you need some stay for your shirt but the fit is not that far off.
 

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