Picked up my first bespoke sport coat and shirt - By Richard Lim of High Society-Pics

[coolal]

So I picked up my first foray into bespoke clothing today. I've been working with Richard Lim's shop High Society.

I had ordered a sport coat with suiting (Super 130 cashmere / wool) and lining (vintage silk) I brought myself.

The C.M.T. (Cut / Make / Trim) rate for the sport coat is $480, plus 20 for working button holes and 15 for stitching around and down the lapel.

After reading this form endlessly I was able to ask some of the right questions to determine some key facts about the work at High Society.

My sport coat was cut from a custom pattern. The coat is fully canvased and most likely machine pad stitched (i think the right term) on the lapel. Richard Lim said he likes to use little to zero fusing on the coats.

This shoulder is not "natural", but was slightly padded after the basted fitting because of the protruding bony structure of my shoulder.

Here is a pic I took when i got home. The shirt is also from High Society, however, I didn't bother tucking it in because it wasn't worth wrinkling for a quick shot. It's 90 degrees in Los Angeles today, so I spared you my sweaty face and collar isn't "perfect". This pic should mainly be judged for the fit of the jacket. BTW I'm 6'0", size 40 chest 32/33 waist and about 170lbs.

I'm curious what you guys think. What would you like closer details of?

Here is the shirt by the way, without being tucked in I don't think it looks perfect. When standing straight, I can't notice the cloth touching my body, it really does float around me. C.M.T rate was $150

Disclaimer: I'm certainly not trying to hold a flame to the work of Savile Row or any of the truly high end artistans. I am however, trying to graduate from a dependence on label designers and enter the world of custom clothing.

What are some thoughts? I'd like to know what I should ask for next time in order to successfully guide this relationship in a positive direction (towards perfect fitment every time).

Thanks,
Alex

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Looks nice from the front, but a picture of the back would be useful...

 

[TRINI]

And side.

 

[coolal]

Hey guys, here are some more pics to judge fitment and some close up of the suiting:

Sport coat from the side and back:

The shirt from side and back:

 

[penguin vic]

Looks great in the first pic but in the side view balance looks off as does sleeve pitch (in my i-tailor opinion).

 

[vitaminc]

sleeve pitch looks off, and the jacket/shirt both don't really show the 7-8" drop you have.

 

[Bird's One View]

I agree that in the side view the balance and sleeve pitch look off.

What we can't tell is if you're standing as you usually do. If your normal posture were more stooped (i.e. you were standing extra-straight for the camera), the coat would fit you better than the picture indicates.

How many fittings did you have?

I like the shirt. I would ask for slightly shorter sleeves if they don't pull up too much when you move around.

Speaking of which, how are the armholes on both shirt and jacket?

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by Bird's One View

I agree that in the side view the balance and sleeve pitch look off.

What we can't tell is if you're standing as you usually do. If your normal posture were more stooped (i.e. you were standing extra-straight for the camera), the coat would fit you better than the picture indicates.

How many fittings did you have?

I like the shirt. I would ask for slightly shorter sleeves if they don't pull up too much when you move around.

Speaking of which, how are the armholes on both shirt and jacket?


Thanks for the comments. In regards to sleeve pitch, what should I ask for next time to correct this?

It is true, I "corrected" my posture a bit for the photos and my shoulders do stoop forward a little when relaxed.

There was one basted fitting for the coat and no fittings for the shirt.

The armholes on the shirt are spot on, the left armhole on my coat is perfect, however, the right armhole is a very slightly tighter at the rear under my arm (easily corrected i imagine). Overall the jacket is simply splendid to wear. The fully canvased structure really does feel very poised on my body.

-Alex

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by vitaminc

sleeve pitch looks off, and the jacket/shirt both don't really show the 7-8" drop you have.

Vitaminc, how would I go about accentuating the 7-8" drop more effectively? What terminology should I use to communicate the change in design for the next coat and possible alteration on this one.

-Alex

 

[JLibourel]

Can you tell us anything about the fabric selections Lim has in-house? Would there be a decent assortment of British jacketings, for instance?

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

Can you tell us anything about the fabric selections Lim has in-house? Would there be a decent assortment of British jacketings, for instance?

I can't tell you much about their selection of British jacketings, but it certainly wouldn't surprise me if they had a very good selection.

Their selection of suitings is quite substantial. They seem to carry all the major's from Loro Piana and Zegna to Scabal.

I personally fingered through 300-400 shirting samples today, and probably didn't touch half of their examples, while picking out fabric for a new shirt.

-Alex

 

[petitnoblesse]

Very nice shirts, I plan to visit Mr. Lim when I am back in LA to have some shirts made.