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Photos of my Tom Ford RTW Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AvariceBespoke, Dec 15, 2008.

  1. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Well-Known Member

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    Incidentally, did anyone else think this TF was reminiscent of WW Chan HK?

    Fisrt thing that I thought when I saw the picture from the front.
     
  2. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Well-Known Member

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    The sleeve dimple is because the shape of the sleeve cap is too long and narrow for you. The shoulder is also narrow; you would have been better to go up a size and bring the waist down. That kind of thing can occasionally be fixed, but don't keep your hopes up- the cap should be widened but there is no inlay for that, the only thing that can be done is to shorten the cap but you will have to lose the rope (what little is there). the blurry photo you posted was a rope shoulder.

    if they are willing to give me a size up and then bring in the waist, you think that would be better?
     
  3. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    if they are willing to give me a size up and then bring in the waist, you think that would be better?

    Since this suit has been altered, it is very unlikely that they will take it back and give you a different one; if, for some reason, you manage to convince them, follow the SF mantra- get a jacket that fits you through the shoulders and fiddle with the rest, buy a trouser for the seat and fiddle with the rest. Besides, to create the tapered look that I think you are looking for, it is best to start with a broad shoulder, then the appearance of a tapered waist is greater, even if your actual waist does not allow for a lot of shape.
     
  4. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Well-Known Member

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    Since this suit has been altered, it is very unlikely that they will take it back and give you a different one; if, for some reason, you manage to convince them, follow the SF mantra- get a jacket that fits you through the shoulders and fiddle with the rest, buy a trouser for the seat and fiddle with the rest. Besides, to create the tapered look that I think you are looking for, it is best to start with a broad shoulder, then the appearance of a tapered waist is greater, even if your actual waist does not allow for a lot of shape.

    OK
     
  5. Chouse

    Chouse Well-Known Member

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    follow the SF mantra- get a jacket that fits you through the shoulders and fiddle with the rest

    I always wondered if you couldn't easily end up with a jacket that is too long this way. And the length of a jacket can only be corrected to a certain degree....
     
  6. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't normally suggest this, but if they won't/can't help you and you have just dropped several G on your suit which is unwearable as is, I would have them contact the factory and see if they have a length of fabric left, which is quite likely. Charcoal is easier to match than black or navy so even if it is not off the same roll you may be fine. You could then have a new pair of sleeves recut; not cheap but it beats junking the suit. Just be a little more careful in choosing the tailor who will do it for you.
     
  7. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    I always wondered if you couldn't easily end up with a jacket that is too long this way. And the length of a jacket can only be corrected to a certain degree....

    The jacket length typically grades 1/4" per two sizes, i.e. from 40 to 42 so it's not a big deal. Better than poorly-fitting shoulders, which will gain 1/2" in width from point to point, 1/2" across the back and about 3/8" in the sleeve cap, all of which would have made a huge difference in the fit of this suit.
     
  8. lefty

    lefty Well-Known Member

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    The jacket length typically grades 1/4" per two sizes, i.e. from 40 to 42 so it's not a big deal. Better than poorly-fitting shoulders, which will gain 1/2" in width from point to point, 1/2" across the back and about 3/8" in the sleeve cap, all of which would have made a huge difference in the fit of this suit.

    Jeffery,

    can I jacket be opened up in the back for a little extra room? I can fit shoulders and chest well enough, but my upper back is broad and a slight flexing will cause noticeable stretching.

    I've sized up on jackets and brought in the waist, but have an aversion to any extension in my shoulders.

    Thanks,

    lefty
     
  9. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    Jeffery,

    can I jacket be opened up in the back for a little extra room? I can fit shoulders and chest well enough, but my upper back is broad and a slight flexing will cause noticeable stretching.

    I've sized up on jackets and brought in the waist, but have an aversion to any extension in my shoulders.

    Thanks,

    lefty


    There is an inlay in the center back seam so you can let this out some; you might need some extra length as well which would be an argument for MTM, depending on how you are shaped.
     
  10. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't normally suggest this, but if they won't/can't help you and you have just dropped several G on your suit which is unwearable as is, I would have them contact the factory and see if they have a length of fabric left, which is quite likely. Charcoal is easier to match than black or navy so even if it is not off the same roll you may be fine. You could then have a new pair of sleeves recut; not cheap but it beats junking the suit. Just be a little more careful in choosing the tailor who will do it for you.

    no, i'm going to have them put me in a jacket one size up and then taper.
     
  11. haganah

    haganah Well-Known Member

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    Jeffery, can I jacket be opened up in the back for a little extra room? I can fit shoulders and chest well enough, but my upper back is broad and a slight flexing will cause noticeable stretching. I've sized up on jackets and brought in the waist, but have an aversion to any extension in my shoulders. Thanks, lefty
    If you ever get this done like Jeffery says, please tell me how it turns out.
     
  12. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    You have a better chance to get what you want by having a suit made. Even if the shoulders work out, the jacket in the picture is off balance. You stand a bit erect and the fronts need to be longer, the back shorter. That is part of the reason for the roll under the collar.
    Everything Jeffrey has said is correct concerning the sleeve and shoulder.

    The trouser is too long in the back and the balance is off as well. That is what causes the diagonal wrinkles on the back leg. The trim trouser does not flow with the skirt of the jacket IMO.

    All this can be improved but not by buying RTW. As styling goes, what you have in the picture is a rather blah jacket. You want TF style but are not getting the great fit you asked for. There are ways to have it all. Go try on a Brioni or Attolini and see if it fits you better. There are Brioni shops in NY and probably Bergdorf Mens,
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Jeffery,

    can I jacket be opened up in the back for a little extra room? I can fit shoulders and chest well enough, but my upper back is broad and a slight flexing will cause noticeable stretching.

    I've sized up on jackets and brought in the waist, but have an aversion to any extension in my shoulders.

    Thanks,

    lefty


    The center back can be let out but what helps your situation is having more fullness on the back shoulder to cover your back/ blades. Gives more movement to the jacket.
     
  14. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Well-Known Member

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    You have a better chance to get what you want by having a suit made. Even if the shoulders work out, the jacket in the picture is off balance. You stand a bit erect and the fronts need to be longer, the back shorter. That is part of the reason for the roll under the collar.
    Everything Jeffrey has said is correct concerning the sleeve and shoulder.

    The trouser is too long in the back and the balance is off as well. That is what causes the diagonal wrinkles on the back leg. The trim trouser does not flow with the skirt of the jacket IMO.

    All this can be improved but not by buying RTW. As styling goes, what you have in the picture is a rather blah jacket. You want TF style but are not getting the great fit you asked for. There are ways to have it all. Go try on a Brioni or Attolini and see if it fits you better. There are Brioni shops in NY and probably Bergdorf Mens,


    I think there are a few things.

    1) the shoulders are definately too narrow
    2) seems like the collar should be lowered a hair to prevent roll
    3) i agree the trousers do not looks perfect - by going a size up in shoulders I think the trsouers may be a better frame to work with
    4) "The trim trouser does not flow with the skirt of the jacket IMO" may you explain?
    5) I agree the suit looks blah
     
  15. holymadness

    holymadness Well-Known Member

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    I'm no expert on what needs to be done to make this look right, but stepping back a bit, what's more important is that you slow down and think carefully about what it is you want. This is what people like Mafoofan are trying (politely) to tell you, but it needs to made more explicit.

    Right now, you're blowing like a weathervane in a hurricane, changing your mind with each new piece of advice that's offered. Your intention to 'strongly consider' becoming a long-term customer of a tailor you've never met is absurd and frankly, in light of the way you were just burned, idiotic. You need to do some basic research about the elements that make a suit fit well and which silhouette will be flattering on your physique BEFORE dropping insanely large amounts of money; your excuse that you are not a professional judge of fit and that SAs and in-store tailors should do all that for you is not legitimate, or smart. You may as well be trying to buy a car without knowing anything about mileage and torque.

    So while you're understandably worked up, you need to settle down. Priority #1 is to assess your options with regard to this current suit, i.e. whether they'll refund your money, exchange the item, or merely re-tailor it for you. Forget about other tailors for now. Second, do your homework. Your inability to identify the problems with the suit when you took it home is not acceptable for a purchase of this kind. A survey of the forum's contents should work just fine, but books might be helpful in this regard, too.

    Your impulsive mentality is your worst enemy here.
     
  16. Soph

    Soph Well-Known Member

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    The narrow shoulders are so far off that it kills the look.
     
  17. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Well-Known Member

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    Your inability to identify the problems with the suit when you took it home is not acceptable for a purchase of this kind.

    I went to Tom Ford, I tried on a lot of suits. I liked the gray suit and the body. With the tailor and salesperson - they fitted & chalked up the suit for alteration.

    I have the suit delivered to me. I tried it on, took photos, and realized - wow this suit that was just delivered to me kinda sucks. and doesn't have the attributes I even remember OTR.

    #1 i assumed a master tailor and SA would notice shoulders too small
    #2 i did a lot of shopping around for weeks before buying the suit and reading this forum (more than a lot of people do)
     
  18. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    The narrow shoulders are so far off that it kills the look.

    thread derail: how come you stopped posting pics of your "fits"
     
  19. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Well-Known Member

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    The narrow shoulders are so far off that it kills the look.

    agree
     
  20. SuitingStyle

    SuitingStyle Well-Known Member

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    Did you try on TF's RTW suit, and did it fit you reasonabley well? If yes, then make an aruguement with them that they F*ed up , becuase MTM piece needs to fit at least if not better than the same suit in RTW.

    Also, have you tried out all the possible high end RTW makers (Isaia, Borreli, Brioni ect.), and determined that none of them fit you and you must have bespoke. It sounds like you are in a discovery stage in terms of style and tailored clothing in general. So its foolish that you blow large amout of cash before you have done you research.
     

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