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Photo essay on Britain's last oak bark tannery

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ManofKent, Aug 10, 2011.

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  1. james_timothy

    james_timothy Well-Known Member

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    Compare Bakers process with that in Nick V.'s post, which is a very industrial process involving converted cement mixers.

    Another time consuming process is natural indigo, which takes a fermentation time. So those natural indigo dyers in Japan
    are amazing. And I'll add anyone who can make a natural dye madder silk tie: indigo, madder, and probably marigold.
     
  2. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Well-Known Member

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    Awesome video!
     
  3. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    The basic difference is, the tannery in Nick's video produces chrome tanned (and vegetal re-tanned) leather. This produces a soft draping leather, suitable for shoe uppers, clothing, upholstery etc.

    Bakers (or Rendenbach in Germany) produces a hard, thick and stiff leather, suitable for shoe soles or harness work. Both tanneries work in totally different ways to produce the desired results.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011
  4. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    Exactly my point...What a world we live in! Old school and new, everything in between and totally global.
    IMO Horns in post 40 nailed it.
    Just think of it, the new skins that started soaking this week @ Bakers won't be boxed for approx. 2 years!
    It's a time staking process that we don't endure. Yet, only enjoy the final product..
    Time to go into my garden and pick some tomatoes, cukes and, peppers for tonight's salad. No ferts only Canadian peat. fresh manurer and, lot's of cultivating. Time and care, can't beat the results.....
     
  5. james_timothy

    james_timothy Well-Known Member

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    From here..

    I'm recalling a member here who said, after three generations of working in a factory, over his dead body was he going to work in a factory. Somehow we dehumanized the work in factories, removed the craftsmanship aspect, so much that no one wanted to do it any more.
     
  6. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Well-Known Member

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    The rot set in when we moved from workshops to factories. Craftsmen are time consuming and expensive to train, much cheaper in the long run to invest in a machine that will sort of do the job at least well enough for most people not to notice. It's as a result of that that factory work is so dull and most ofnthe products of today are so poor. Craftsmanship, certainly in our trade is getting harder and harder to find, we find it next tomimpossible to find good people and the youngsters aren't interested in working with their hands. Maybe the Internet will help the craft based businesses show why what they do is different and valuable

    Charlie
     
  7. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

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    Excellent, excellent point Sir--

    Exactly why when people ask me what I do for a living, They fret and say "that's a dying art". Yes, it's perceived that way but, I see it in a reverse way. There is a need for high-end services. We deliver to that market. I love doing it. Always strive to raise the bar. Appreciate both positive and negative feedback in order to improve. My Kids? Both have nearly 4.0 Cm's in college. One is pursuing a careerer in security. The other was reviewed as "the best intern ever" at a major publication that most of you know. Invited back. Will they get into my business? I doubt it but they are welcomed. As long as they peruse there passions. And let's face it, what I do is not glamorous but, it's my passion.
     
  8. james_timothy

    james_timothy Well-Known Member

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    No man should be coerced into following his father's footsteps- but the society at large shouldn't be putting such a low premium on working with ones hands.

    Workshops seem to be back on the rise, in small numbers. I'm thinking for example of Tanners in Portland, Oregon, which to my eye looks like a bunch of kids running a leather goods operation. They seem to making a go of it- which is just great.

    That's obviously why I like this Baker/Equus project as much as I do. The handwork can be traced all the way through the process. It may or may not be "the best belt"; but it should be one very nice belt, and one that combines an great idea with a niece piece of work.
     
  9. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2011
  10. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Well-Known Member

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    Hi Louis,

    Our closest buckle to 35mm is 1 3/8", its quite an unusual size but we can certain do it in some styles, for e.g. the Brass West End. I hope to have definite prices on Mon or Tues and will let all interested know. I'm not going to put a closing date on the offer, but given the Aus Nut run will be limited to 16 belts and its first come first I think it will self limit quite quickly given the interest so far.

    Regarding blue boat shoes we carry blue leather, but for the contrarian London Tan, Sedwicks or Bakers might make for an interesting contrast!

    Charlie
     
  11. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2011
  12. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Well-Known Member

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    Hi Uniesse,

    I think we won't be doing a Lined and Raised this time - they use a lot of leather and given our intent is to buy 1/2 a pair of Australian Nut and maybe 1/2 a pair of London Tan I don't think there will be enough to go around, I'm sorry. The end results would be beautiful and I can see it happening in the future.

    Charlie
     
  13. commodorewheeler

    commodorewheeler Well-Known Member

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    Count me in, this sounds like a great project!

    How thick is the leather used in this belt? I think the thickness will affect my choice of belt width.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2011
  14. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Well-Known Member

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    I'll confirm the final spec with the price, but I'm anticipating very similar to the Sedgwicks bridle butt we normally use, 3.5-4mm. To me thats just the right heft for a mans belt

    Charlie
     
  15. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Well-Known Member

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    can you do lined belts with snaps to allow the buckles to be changed in and out?
     
  16. Fishball

    Fishball Well-Known Member

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    I'm interested in the belt too.
     
  17. Tarlee

    Tarlee Well-Known Member

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    Charlie, me too.
     
  18. KObalto

    KObalto Well-Known Member

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    Great essay MoK. Compare it with this: I'll buy British.

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]
     
  19. meister

    meister Well-Known Member

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    I remember there was one in the centre of the souk in Bahrein as well years ago. It reminds me of this site though the smell was not that bad.
     
  20. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Well-Known Member

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    Hi ThinkDerm,

    I don't think the lined and raised would work well with snaps or chicago screws - the design has been developed for a stitched in buckle. Maybe drop me a PM though and we'll see if we can work something out for you

    Charlie
     

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