Peter Lee -- do I need to bring the fabric?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by JohnnyCrockett, May 31, 2010.

  1. JohnnyCrockett

    JohnnyCrockett Senior member

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    I've been doing lots of searching on these fora about HKG tailors and I think I'm going to use Peter Lee. I would like good fabric and it seems like I'm reading conflicting things here -- some say bring your own fabric and others say PL can source it for you if you ask. If I have 4 days in HK and want to get the maximum possible number of fittings in that time, do I need to bring my own fabric? How is his house selection of simple worsteds and frescos? Is it horrible quality or just not incredible quality? Is there anywhere near PL in HK where I can source my fabric easily at a good price? If not, anywhere in the US from whom I can order quickly?
    What is the necessary amount of fabric for a suit or a sport jacket?

    Thank you.
     
  2. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    where are you located?
     
  3. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    No need to bring fabrics for shirts as Peter has loads of good ones. For jackets and suits, Peter is strong in the linen department, but he doesn't have much in terms of frescos, woollen flannels and others. His stuff is solid, but not remarkable.

    I'd recommend asking Peter to source something. You'll need to let him know at least a week in advance and you'll have to give him the fabric maker (ex Holland & Sherry), book name (ex Crispaire) and fabric number (ex 333202). It also can't hurt to give him a description of the fabric so he can check it out when it arrives.

    With 4 days in HK, I'd get measure right when you arrive and Peter can then have a basted fitting ready for you in one or two days. You might be able to do one other fitting after that, but maybe not. He could then ship you the final products. Don't forget to get some shirts!

    Hope that helps.
     
  4. JohnnyCrockett

    JohnnyCrockett Senior member

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    No need to bring fabrics for shirts as Peter has loads of good ones. For jackets and suits, Peter is strong in the linen department, but he doesn't have much in terms of frescos, woollen flannels and others. His stuff is solid, but not remarkable. I'd recommend asking Peter to source something. You'll need to let him know at least a week in advance and you'll have to give him the fabric maker (ex Holland & Sherry), book name (ex Crispaire) and fabric number (ex 333202). It also can't hurt to give him a description of the fabric so he can check it out when it arrives. With 4 days in HK, I'd get measure right when you arrive and Peter can then have a basted fitting ready for you in one or two days. You might be able to do one other fitting after that, but maybe not. He could then ship you the final products. Don't forget to get some shirts! Hope that helps.
    Thank you very much, Slewfoot! This is great advice. I looked at your past suits from PL and they look great. I particularly like the H&S navy fresco. Has that now been discontinued? What is the level of formality of fresco in general and in what temperature ranges is it good? I basically want a very very versatile navy sport jacket with horn buttons, natural shoulder and soft construction -- something which could go from being worn with jeans traveling to something I could wear with tie and dark grey slacks to work. Does your fresco fit the bill? Does the fresco wrinkle much? I just want a totally all-around excellent navy sport jacket which will hold up and won't develop a shine too easily. EDIT: It looks like you're in NYC. Is there anywhere convenient here where I can look at fabrics myself? I'm rather new to this whole fabric thing and I know what's good when I see it/feel it but am a bit lost picking stuff at random sight unseen.
     
  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Sounds like Fresco should work pretty well for you. It's nice in moderate temperatures and warmer temperatures with a breeze. Anything over 11oz is tough in warmer climates.

    The H&S 333202 has been discontinued, but what from what I understand still exists.

    I would recommend checking out Minnis Fresco, Harrion's Frontier and H&S Crispaire. All can be seen at Saks in their custom department. Best of luck!
     
  6. JohnnyCrockett

    JohnnyCrockett Senior member

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    Got it. I will go to Saks. I know Minnis' Crown Classic Collection (have a Rizzo suit made in 11/12-oz charcoal twill) and the stuff is absolutely fantastic.

    How is the Crispaire holding up? I keep reading here that it gets "wooly"-looking after some wear. Do you find this to be true? Is 333202 navy? At the same price, would you go H&S fresco or Minnis fresco?
     
  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Got it. I will go to Saks. I know Minnis' Crown Classic Collection (have a Rizzo suit made in 11/12-oz charcoal twill) and the stuff is absolutely fantastic.

    How is the Crispaire holding up? I keep reading here that it gets "wooly"-looking after some wear. Do you find this to be true? Is 333202 navy? At the same price, would you go H&S fresco or Minnis fresco?


    Apparently the 333202 is a Fresco made by Minnis. It's definitely a unique shade of navy that isn't standard in the Minnis book, but specially made for H&S. I also have Minnis items and they may be getting a touch wooly. Hard to tell if I'm imagining, but regardless I'm a Fresco fan. The Crispaire is definitely finer. It's really up to you and what you think will be best for your needs as they're all great.
     
  8. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Apparently the 333202 is a Fresco made by Minnis. It's definitely a unique shade of navy that isn't standard in the Minnis book, but specially made for H&S. I also have Minnis items and they may be getting a touch wooly. Hard to tell if I'm imagining, but regardless I'm a Fresco fan. The Crispaire is definitely finer. It's really up to you and what you think will be best for your needs as they're all great.

    Any info on this Holland Sherry crispaire? #339031 ? It's Navy Royal Blue Bold Stripe.
     
  9. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Any info on this Holland Sherry crispaire? #339031 ? It's Navy Royal Blue Bold Stripe.

    That might be from the new book as I can't recall seeing it. Looks fun though!
     
  10. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    That might be from the new book as I can't recall seeing it. Looks fun though!

    Yeh, appears to be from the latest as shown on their site.
     
  11. Buster

    Buster Senior member

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    I had a suit a jacket and several shirts made recently by Peter Lee.
    I arrived on Tuesday morning for measurements.
    Had the basted fitting on Wednesday evening. The forward fitting (if this is the right name) on Friday evening (or maybe saturday morning) and then picked up the suit on Saturday evening after pressing.
    I am not sure if less than that is possible - I added another day to the trip after discussing it with Peter and Slewfoot. I brought the fabric (navy Harrison Forntier, and Solway for the jacket) with me from the US, again, after consulting with the iGents and Peter.
     
  12. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    personally when ever using a new tailor untill the pattern is down i would not even consider giving them cloth, what happens if it one big mess?? if it is their cloth at least you can reject it.

    with CMT if have a responsibility to make sure you have enough cloth to cover errors and issue and most HK tailors will not take resposibility for the cloth, for any errors, they will remake it but again you have to provide enough cloth

    think about it before you get over excited!!
     
  13. tipitai

    tipitai Member

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    Hi All,

    I almost started a new thread on this topic, but after spending hours reading dozens of threads on HK tailors and Peter Lee in particular, I thought it would be better to resurrect this one.

    I am leaving for Bangkok in about three weeks and will be passing through HK in the middle of February for three days on my way back to the US from a mid-winter vacation. As this will be my first experience in custom suiting, I would like to visit Peter Lee to have two classic suits two-button suits made (mid grey and navy) and perhaps a patch pocket navy/blue two-button jacket. Based on everyone's input (especially you, Slewfoot - great pictures of your suits, btw), I would really like to bring my own fabric. That said, I am new to ordering fabric and don't really know how best to go about this process.

    I have spent lots of time handling swatches, so I understand the different styles (i.e., tweeds, gabardines, high twist, tropicals, flannels, super 100s, 120s, 140s, etc.), but am not so keen on brands although I have done my best to educate myself on many of the different UK mills described on SF (in particular Minnis, Dugdale Bros, etc.) as well as the various fabrics sold by how6955 on ebay. Are there any US-based websites where I can find decent fabrics, or would it be better (given my somewhat tight timeline) to email Peter and ask him to order some UK fabrics that I find on UK sites?

    I have also considered commissioning Chan to produce my garments, but since this is my first, I think it would probably be better for me to go with a less expensive tailor until I find what works best for me and my body.

    Anyway, I would love any kind of feedback you may be able to give me on this topic. Wish me luck!
     
  14. jamesny

    jamesny Senior member

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    Bespoke tailors do have a wide selection of fabrics with them so you wouldn't need to bring your own.
     
  15. matt1

    matt1 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for this info. I might be traveling in HK in a few weeks and just might look him up.
     

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