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Peir Wu

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by steveoffice, Aug 17, 2013.

  1. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    That one is great. Another piece I would like to get eventually.

    Have been wondering how to size it. The size chart on their web shop suggests it fits big. At other places it mainly seems to be the chest that is big while the shoulder are normal.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
  2. Severisth

    Severisth Senior member

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    It's the hidden placket one in charcoal, not the one with the elasticated chest pocket (although I also got that in green). I think a 48 would be the size for you
     
  3. leeba

    leeba Senior member

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    @conceptionist how is it? was eyeing that
     
  4. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    Got it yesterday, so have only tried it on briefly.

    The fabric is more robust than expected, and that is a good thing. I expected it to be thin, drapey and "wet" since that is my experience with 100% nylon fabrics on windbreakers and such. According to the product description it is water resistant, breathable and has a wrinkle and crinkle finish, which I think is accurate. Its fabric resembles cotton in terms of the dry hand, thickness and weight.

    The fit is good TTS. I would not advise sizing down. Not slim nor baggy. Regular to generous as I think suits this style of jacket. The shoulders are cut a bit wide as well.

    The details are nice. I especially like the snap buttons and the construction of the ribbing at the sleeve hems. The back of the shoulder seam is cut open for improved shoulder mobility and (I think) breathability. There are sides vents on the body with snap button closure.

    Will likely post fits pics some time later.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    A not so recent but good article I found.
    Not much new, but it gives some insight into the brands history and aesthetic with decent product pictures.
    If I am not mistaken it is the current FW16 collection.

    The prices mentioned at the end seem wrong though.
    Seems like Mr Porter were interested in the brand.

    http://www.fashioncapital.co.uk/industry/news/329-events/14569-capsule-paris-peir-wu

    Quote:

    Fresh from the Eurostar and a sublime easy-peasy trip to Capsule, was rewarded with a newcomer to the show, from London – Peir Wu.
    Originally from Singapore, where Peir attended a Technical Art School, and 10 years in London, with a BA and MA from Central St Martin’s. I had no agenda and combined an impromptu wish list for the UK brands that had come over, with whatever caught my eye. This makes for a very relaxed, near-indulgent fashion week pour moi. And true to form Peir’s designs caught my eye.
    A patchwork pocket waistcoat, with unfinished hems to be precise. 8 collections to date, this was her first formal trade show showing, preceded by a number of private shows in Paris. The well-trod ‘safe route’ to showing in Paris often involves, toe-dips in the pool around a key fashion week, with the hopes of syphoning off some of the buying talent already ensconced in nearby venues. Well, what else are you going to do?
    The relaxed, easy-going styling was inspired as a ‘travel series’ for different occasions. Waterproof fabrics, breathable, loose-fitting menswear. The finishing on a number of garments resembled a tailor’s fitting stage, the work-in-progress as a finished item, unfinished seams, but carefully styled.
    [​IMG]
    I enjoyed the de-construction and reconstruction on trouser waistbands finding a new form and silhouette to unpick the eye’s lazy following of convention. In Peir’s hands it conveys a dynamic, comfortable modern style aesthetic with a hint of a certain workers uniform with its clean lines, simple uncluttered suit styling, in one color. It was a relief that Peir volunteered “it’s a little bit Mao”, after I had hinted its influence, but she wasn’t wearing it as a badge either, agreeing on the quilted lined waistcoat with its Asian references were there if you wanted it.
    There was a wonderful natural feel to the collection combining water-proof nylon fabrics (one of her things – hi-performance/ innovative) with jersey, delivering “Eastern Quietude” she proudly plucks out of the air as a synthesis of what she is all about, what I am looking at on the rails. Good enough for me, a bit of Wittgenstein, un-complicating life, with hundreds of men’s designers and Paris lying in wait.
    [​IMG]
    Peir’s retail prices, £84 for trousers, £123 for jackets is all very reasonable, and sensibly affordable. “Mr Porter came and looked at the range and will follow up.” Best of luck with that and all the buyers who should have stopped by this new designer’s stand. One to watch and clothes I would wear. How do you trip up success, before it passes your stand? “Sometimes you just have to party with the right people.”
    www.peirwu.com
    By Paul Markevicius​
     
  6. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

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    that patchwork stuff seems at odds with the clean lines of her other work. (plus, i haven't noticed any buyers picking it up?)
    i wonder if you need something like that in order to stand out at trade fairs etc.
     
  7. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    There is an artisanal series that seems to be separate from the travel series. I am not sure, but it is possible that those patchwork pieces have a connection to the former.

    H Lorenzo have a couple of the pieces. FWIW I also have mixed feelings about them.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
  8. Francks

    Francks Senior member

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    In London if I'm not mistaken she has got an exclusivity contract with Harvey Nichols for a couple of seasons (I guess it started last SS16 collection).

    Also last time we met we had a lenghty chat about her vision and how she came to this kind of aesthetics (and why she chose men over women design). Very interesting.

    She also mentioned the issues related to setting up a business (as a company) and complying with all the regulations in the UK/Europe. As a result she was thinking about moving her office to the US.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  9. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    I had heard that Harvey Nichols were going to get SS17 but didn't know they had a contract for several seasons.
    Solid webshop with nice terms and good customer service (I have called them a couple of times for pieces that they only have in-store), so I'm happy with that. Also good to know that some store will stock the collections for sure. The brand seems to be gaining some momentum lately with getting more stockists, doing capsule shows, etc.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
  10. Severisth

    Severisth Senior member

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    Wonder how the brand's trajectory would have changed if Mr. Porter had picked Peir Wu up. Also really glad to hear about the multi-season deal with Harvey Nichols, I was really impressed when I bought from them (shipping charge was fairly reasonable, and the package got to my door in 2 days).
     
  11. Francks

    Francks Senior member

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    I don't know if the deal with HN will continue for the next collections (the exclusivity part at least since they will indeed stock SS17)
     
  12. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

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    @conceptionist
    yes, i've seen some early artisanal pieces too so there was always that strand in her work. i didn't mean to sound critical, i've done the equivalent of 'trade fairs' (art fairs like frieze) and if you are a relatively small outfit it's probably a smart idea to have something that will catch the eye, in a way that olive coach jackets don't
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  13. Severisth

    Severisth Senior member

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    Has anyone tried on the tech MA-1 from this season? Really not sure what size I should get.
     
  14. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    It seems like the jackets are meant to be worn TTS. Is there anything that hints you should size down? Because I guess you don't intend to size up. I only know that some of the shirts fit big.

    What they've done with sizing is that the size 50 has become a bit larger to accommodate those who would normally get a 52 since the 52's are in no longer produced due to low demand. I don't think this affects the smaller sizes.
     
  15. Severisth

    Severisth Senior member

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    I'm mostly unsure because the plum-melange version I bought from SP a while back from FW14 in a 46 was definitely the better size for me even though I'm a 48, so I didn't know if this one was going to be the same way. That being said, figure I'll probably end up going with the 48.
     
  16. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    Ok, wasn't aware of that.
    From the contact I've had with them it seems like the sizing is more consistent, proportional and acommodating to a larger variety of physiques now. For instance my SS14 collared bomber is almost too cropped for me TTS (size 50, 6'3"), although it def works, and they have been working on improving this the latest seasons.
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2016
  17. leeba

    leeba Senior member

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    ^I can't seem to give away my bomber in a 48 -_-

    Is Peir doing AW17 this year? Capsule shows and stuff are coming up
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2016
  18. Severisth

    Severisth Senior member

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    I just got in my order from HN - went true to size on the blue bomber and the zip blazer (48) and both fit perfect, glad I didn't size down on the bomber. I sized down on the wool shirt to a 46 and it also fits perfect (but don't think I'm gonna keep it). Might try and take photos this weekend
     
    3 people like this.
  19. conceptionist

    conceptionist Senior member

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    FWIW I can add that the zip shirt jacket fits weird with dropped shoulders, super wide boxy body and too short sleeves for me. The cut could maybe look good on a lanky person. Looked very off on my somewhat broader and athletic build.

    The tech linen shorts that Harvey Nichols carried fit TTS meaning that a 48 should fit a 32-33 waist. My waist measures 34" and the elastic waist pulled too much.
     
  20. LonerMatt

    LonerMatt Senior member

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    Just bring back your online store Peir!
     

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