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PEIR WU AW14-15 (as part of London Collections: Men)

robinsongreen68

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This must be the anti-Pitti. If the universe really strives for equilibrium, perhaps it’s some kind of necessary corrective to the ostentatious preening, the panoply of colours. I picture Synthese smoking reflectively in the mild lemon light, Florentine breezes teasing at his ankles…
It’s a stormy night in an unfamiliar quarter of south London, and we’ve passed under a huge echoing railway viaduct, trailed through a council estate past brightly-lit, strangely deserted pubs, all the while failing to find the venue. Natasha, the photographer, fears for the safety of her camera. Andy, Peir’s assistant, gave us a phone number that now seems to be disconnected.
When we finally get there – a brick warehouse down a dark side-turning we’d passed at least three times- stepping inside offers little comfort: a stark-white-walled and windowless enclosure with cracked concrete floors, it’s reminiscent of the east London and Berlin art galleries that appeared in the wake of the millenium’s first big market crash, industrial buildings colonised and given new purpose. The open space is broken up, disrupted by brutal-looking steel assemblages whose arrangement creates both boundaries and passages. Glowing floor-mounted light fixtures are a migraineur’s nightmare.
As the show begins, zoned-out-looking models track the schematic maze like zombie lab rats. The palette is monochromatic, which in the stark side-on light foregrounds silhouette and texture as well as the extraordinary detailing of the clothes: an apparently soft shoulder that has just enough structure to give it a coherent shape, an oversized or contrast-fabric pocket flap, a sculptural-looking seam or pleat.
Enough impressionistic rambling, I’ll let the images speak for themselves. When Peir has time I will talk to her about specific concepts for and details of the show.










Styling: Nina Walbecq
Photography: Edith Bergfors
Music: Lutto Lento
Show Venue: The International Picture House
Models: Max Lester at D1, Kristof Pituk at Premier Model Management, George Sagar, Pablo Walbecq
Hair: Takuya Baba using Kiehl's
Hair Assistant: Alfie Sackett
Make up: Riona O'Sullivan using Biotherm

All images copyright Natasha Bidgood 2014
 
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LonerMatt

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1. Those pants all look great.

2. The coats are gorgeous
 

conceptionist

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Hnnnnnggg
Those pants to the far right in the second to last picture. Look like just the right amount of dropped crotch and taper in a cozy fabric.
That white ribbed longsleeve is perfect.

Any ideas on the footwear?

Great writing and thanks for posting!
 

robinsongreen68

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^ shoes are camper i believe.
thanks for the comments.
 
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