Peak Lapel vs. Notch Lapel for DB or SB Tuxedo

[willgro]

I have an arguement and I need your help. I'm being told single breasted peak lapel tuxedos are modern. That Clark Gabel or Cary Grant wore peak lapel tuxedos but they were double breasted. I said no, peak lapel, single breasted suits are the gold standard via
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic...troduction.htm
They say this is bogus and peak lapel single breasted suit is wrong, the classic guys (Cary and Clark) wore peak lapels but it was double breasted tuxedos. The issue is double breasted vs single breasted tuxedos on the classics...Cary and Clark or others.
I think I'm right but I can't find any pictures...ideas? Support?

God forbid I am wrong?

 

[Ianiceman]

Originally Posted by willgro

I have an arguement and I need your help. I'm being told single breasted peak lapel tuxedos are modern. That Clark Gabel or Cary Grant wore peak lapel tuxedos but they were double breasted. I said no, peak lapel, single breasted suits are the gold standard via
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic...troduction.htm
They say this is bogus and peak lapel single breasted suit is wrong, the classic guys (Cary and Clark) wore peak lapels but it was double breasted tuxedos. The issue is double breasted vs single breasted tuxedos on the classics...Cary and Clark or others.
I think I'm right but I can't find any pictures...ideas? Support?

God forbid I am wrong?

The question in your thread title is different from what you ask in the text of your post. I think there's a general consensus on here that dinner jackets look best with peak lapels or shawl collars. Peak DB is old school Car Grant style, peak SB are very popular these days and have been for some time.

SB notch lapels look too close to a daytime suit and generally lack that certain classiness of the styles mentioned above.

 

[Matt S]

Single-breasted peak lapel dinner jackets are more traditional than a single-breasted notch. Here's a picture of Cary Grant from Notorious in 1946:

This should be all you need.

 

[willgro]

That is perfect, all I need. This is what I'm going to try for my wedding. Appreciated. I'm assuming he is wearing a cummerbund in this picture, although I cannot see it. Not a waistcoat. My understanding is that one should wear one or the other.

 

[agoldf]

SB peak are both traditional and modern. It really would depend on cut. I'd stay away from a SB notch, as that is more likely to look dated.

 

[alliswell]

Originally Posted by willgro

...They say ...

They never know what they're talking about.

 

[makewayhomer]

Originally Posted by willgro

That is perfect, all I need. This is what I'm going to try for my wedding. Appreciated. I'm assuming he is wearing a cummerbund in this picture, although I cannot see it. Not a waistcoat. My understanding is that one should wear one or the other.

I think his waistcoat is visible, though note it appears to be a classic style, not a high buttoning style vest you typically see at rental shopps

if you ALWAYS keep your jacket buttoned, and won't have visible buttons on your shirt not covered by studs, then I don't think you need either. otherwise you will look like this guy

 

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by willgro

That is perfect, all I need. This is what I'm going to try for my wedding. Appreciated. I'm assuming he is wearing a cummerbund in this picture, although I cannot see it. Not a waistcoat. My understanding is that one should wear one or the other.

He's wearing a proper black waistcoat, low-cut with 3 or 4 closely spaced buttons. It should hardly be seen. These aren't very easy to come by, but it's the only proper waistcoat with black tie. It's easier to find them in white cotton pique like the ones that must be worn for white tie, but those require a wing-collar shirt (preferably detachable). For the classic look a spread collar and black waistcoat is best. Whatever you do don't get a high-cut waistcoat.

 

[makewayhomer]

Originally Posted by Matt S

He's wearing a proper black waistcoat, low-cut with 3 or 4 closely spaced buttons. It should hardly be seen. These aren't very easy to come by, but it's the only proper waistcoat with black tie. It's easier to find them in white cotton pique like the ones that must be worn for white tie, but those require a wing-collar shirt (preferably detachable). For the classic look a spread collar and black waistcoat is best. Whatever you do don't get a high-cut waistcoat.

I actually have one for sale if you are a 39 or 40

I need a 46

 

[willgro]

This is incredibly helpful, I will find out. Thank you. I'm going to get married with this exact look, but I need to find the waistcoats for all the groomsmen. I appreciate the offer, I'll find my size. I'm still trying to decide between cummerbund and waistcoat, but at least I'm headed in the right direction. Put together some other looks for what I'm going for here, but I can't tell what is better, the cummerbund or waistcoat. Guess it's a style choice.
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplem...remiere-29.jpg
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplem...ars-01crop.jpg
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplem...1_2007_001.jpg
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplem...oplesdaily.jpg
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplem...od/78th_gy.jpg
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Supplem...onneryS_01.jpg

 

[Ianiceman]

Personally I go with neither but if I was to choose the waistcoat is better and the photo of CG supports this. I think a cummerbund is just o e step too far in pointless accoutrements which make up a lot of black tie kit. We wear studs and links when buttons would work fine. Now we wear a strip of ruffled silk to cover a waistband which should never be seen anyway as you should keep your jacket buttoned until you sit down to eat.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Ianiceman

Personally I go with neither but if I was to choose the waistcoat is better and the photo of CG supports this. I think a cummerbund is just o e step too far in pointless accoutrements which make up a lot of black tie kit. We wear studs and links when buttons would work fine. Now we wear a strip of ruffled silk to cover a waistband which should never be seen anyway as you should keep your jacket buttoned until you sit down to eat.

Elegance is never pointless, especially when it has a function. The cummerbund replaces a waistcoat when it's hot.

 

[Ianiceman]

Originally Posted by Will

Elegance is never pointless, especially when it has a function. The cummerbund replaces a waistcoat when it's hot.

Well my DJ is double breasted so I don't have to concern myself with it but I still don't think they look good.