Peak lapel suit in New York? OTR or MTM?

[aravenel]

I'm looking at wearing a single-breasted peak lapel suit to my wedding in about six months--I feel like it's more formal than a standard notch lapel. However, I'm having trouble finding one that I like.

I'm looking for a navy blue, single-breasted, 1 or 2 button, double vented peak lapel suit with softer shoulders, higher armholes, and ideally a bit of roping at the sleevehead. Fairly open quarters would be nice as well. I'm looking to spend about $1000.

Any suggestions of where I should be looking? I live in New York so I'd think I'd be able to find something, but have struck out at C21, Daffys, and even Saks. At this point, I'm considering going to Mr. Ned and having one made, but I;m nervous about having my wedding suit being the first suit a tailor makes for me--I'd rather have another suit made first to iron out the wrinkles, but I just can't afford it at the moment.

Many thanks for any suggestions.

 

[TimelesStyle]

If you up the budget by about 50% then check out Ralph Lauren's Black Label suits and Paul Stuart's Phineas Cole line. Both should have something to your liking.

 

[aravenel]

I thought about both of those, but I think it's a bit too fashion forward--I'm going to be looking at these photos for a long time, so I need to stick with something fairly classic. The normal Paul Stuart stuff would be about perfect, but I was in there on Friday and didn't see a single peak lapel suit that wasn't a tuxedo

 

[TimelesStyle]

Did you actually try on any of the RLBL or PSPC suits? I like a slim suit, but I don't wear them nearly as short or fitted as the RL and PS models do. And while some of their patterns may be a bit bold, something in plain navy shouldn't look too fashion forward, particularly the RL since it doesn't have the slanted pockets of the PS.

If RL has a good sale for spring between now and your wedding, and you're willing to go to about $2k, perhaps you can find a Purple Label suit, which tend to look a bit more classic than Black Label, and are often available with peak lapels.

 

[aravenel]

No, I haven't actually. Perhaps I'll stop by RL and try one on. I didn't see any PSPC in any solids unfortunately...

I'd love purple label--it's pretty much my platonic ideal of a suit. Unfortunately, I can't come anywhere near affording that right now... The only RLPL I ever see on sale are super loud patterns, not something I'd want to wear to my wedding...

 

[TimelesStyle]

Originally Posted by aravenel

No, I haven't actually. Perhaps I'll stop by RL and try one on. I didn't see any PSPC in any solids unfortunately...

I'd love purple label--it's pretty much my platonic ideal of a suit. Unfortunately, I can't come anywhere near affording that right now... The only RLPL I ever see on sale are super loud patterns, not something I'd want to wear to my wedding...

Right. The Paul Stuart I linked to was charcoal, not sure if they make a navy or not. RL typically uses much more sedate patterns. For practical purposes, in execution I don't see RLBL and RLPL looking much different on most people. RLPL uses slightly wider lapels and higher rise trousers and they sometimes opt for a slightly wider cut but if you're fairly thin, then it won't matter.

RLBL isn't super short, and the cut isn't likely to look too dated too quickly (no super skinny lapels, ultra low rises, extremely tapered trousers, waist suppression to the point of pulling). I think most of the difference we see in photos and in stores is the fact that RL creates a more sumptuous look around their PL line by where they do the shoots and what shirts/ties/shoes/accessories they pair with the suits - a lot of it is marketing. I agree, though, RLPL fabrics are to die for.

If you're in NY, after you find out what you want at RL it's probably worth a trip to Saks/Bloomie's/Barney's since you can get a discount by opening an account and there's a lot of overlap in the selection.

 

[MikeDT]

Is the recent trend for peak lapels on SB suits a bit of a fad? Just like having notch lapels on DB suits was trendy for a brief time in the 80s, along with the very dated 6+1 buttoning arrangement. Could be next year that all SB suits will be back to the more classic notch lapels. SB notch lapels. DB peak lapels. IMO both are classic, especially if one is planning to keep the suit for more than a couple of years.

 

[TimelesStyle]

Originally Posted by MikeDT

Is the recent trend for peak lapels on SB suits a bit of a fad? Just like having notch lapels on DB suits was trendy for a brief time in the 80s, along with the very dated 6+1 buttoning arrangement. Could be next year that all SB suits will be back to the more classic notch lapels.

SB notch lapels.
DB peak lapels.
IMO both are classic, especially if one is planning to keep the suit for more than a couple of years.

I definitely think the style has hit its peak (pun totally intended) in the past few years. However, I don't think I'd go so far as to say it's ever been "out." Notch lapels on a DB suit just looks odd to me, hence why I doubt it lasted. However I've seen SB PL suits throughout the years and while it seems to sometimes be more of a stand-out, I doubt it would look dated a few years from now. After all, tuxedos have used this style for a century. Can't say the same about any kind of notch lapel DB jackets.

 

[aravenel]

The peak lapel thing has become a bit trendy, but that's not why I like it. It's been around forever, and is more formal than a standard notch lapel. I'd love to go DB, but 1) I'm short, and 2) my wedding is in Atlanta in the summer. Both preclude a DB suit. I'm thinking of a peak lapel with a dove grey, double breasted waistcoat to make it more formal without going to black tie.

 

[TimelesStyle]

Originally Posted by aravenel

The peak lapel thing has become a bit trendy, but that's not why I like it. It's been around forever, and is more formal than a standard notch lapel. I'd love to go DB, but 1) I'm short, and 2) my wedding is in Atlanta in the summer. Both preclude a DB suit. I'm thinking of a peak lapel with a dove grey, double breasted waistcoat to make it more formal without going to black tie.

If it's summer in Atlanta then I doubt you are going to want the extra layer. One other thing I'll add about the RL suits if you didn't notice: they can be formalized a bit more than some other OTR suits because they come with side tabs instead of belt loops and therefore require no alterations if you wish to wear braces (besides installation of the buttons).