Paul Stuart - Manufacturer Made in Italy

[Moreshoes]

Does anybody know who manufactures the Made in Italy shoes from Paul Stuart? I know the English sized shoes have generally been C&J and Grenson but can't find anywhere in the archives that mention the Made in Italy line.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

This topic was discussed here:

Brooks Brothers Bankruptcy Thread

Paul Stuart definitely continue to "pivot", I find their new direction a bit "lack of direction" to be honest (still some good stuff, but not as in the old days where I go in and want to just buy everything)

www.styleforum.net

Also, PS has not used Grenson for years. They were using Gaziano & Girling for a while for some of their Stuart's Choice.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Also, PS has not used Grenson for years. They were using Gaziano & Girling for a while for some of their Stuart's Choice.

I think these are made by Grenson actually. They don’t look like C&J and they are way too cheap for G&G.

The Trinity Blucher

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

This looks like Grenson.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

That’s a pretty old model and PS doesn’t carry it in their regular line up any longer. Pretty decent price.

like I said, Grenson used to make for PS private label and I imagine this may be a vestige of that relationship.

 

[bry2000]

Grenson Masterpiece for Paul Stuart are still my favorite shoes and I also own G&G, C&J, Lobb, and EG for comparison.

 

[smittycl]

@clee1982 a new thread!

 

[clee1982]

well, depends on the model, I know at least the top of the line Made in Italy is Paolo Scafora (GYW, but I assume to lower standard than Paolo Scafora themselves because it's ~$300 cheaper?). Then there is bunch blake stiched model that I have no idea by whom

 

[clee1982]

like this one, another 20% off too (EXTRA20)

definitely a steal, don't need another wingtip and don't have sizing experience with Paolo Scafora (and looking for mostly handwelt these days) otherwise instant cop

Gallia Wingtip Lace-Up

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

 

[Jaggery]

well, depends on the model, I know at least the top of the line Made in Italy is Paolo Scafora (GYW, but I assume to lower standard than Paolo Scafora themselves because it's ~$300 cheaper?). Then there is bunch blake stiched model that I have no idea by whom

In the recent past, some Paul Stuart shoes and boots bore strong similarities to Romano Martegani and Rider Boot Co. models. Both brands are affiliated with an Italian maker called Cortina (if Cortina is still using the Martegani label). The company makes several varieties of "Blake plus" shoes, i.e. Blake-rapid and other constructions that incorporate Blake stitching along with features such as welts. Please do not rely on this as definitive with respect to any shoes PS is currently selling; they have clearly used multiple makers for house brand footwear.

 

[compuccesory]

like this one, another 20% off too (EXTRA20)

definitely a steal, don't need another wingtip and don't have sizing experience with Paolo Scafora (and looking for mostly handwelt these days) otherwise instant cop

Gallia Wingtip Lace-Up

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

There's a bunch of "English Size" shoes for around the $210 mark too after coupon, which is a fair price if they are C&J which they seem to be. I'm in the same spot as you though, just grabbed one of the BB C&J shoes for $177 and it's nice, but I don't really see the value proposition or why it's 2-3x the price of my other shoes. I think if I'm really goin to spend shoes next it's going to be handwelt as well.

 

[clee1982]

I think that's more than fair, they're all CJ to my knowledge, other than old stock, don't think there is any more AS/Grenson these days.

I prefer Paul Stuart's CJ to BB by far because they're mostly on same mainstream last (348/341/360) rather than BB which was like 90% on 240 (which doesn't look that great, and at least for me doesn't fit that well either).

I didn't pick up Paolo Scafora because I'm mostly on Antonio Meccariello these day as I know AM fits me well and Paolo Scafora is unkonwn quantity (and exploring bunch higher end Chinese handwelt guys).

I think Paolo Scafora is well worth the price, just by looking at Paolo Scafora's picture alone (old Skoat stuff and others), it easily beats all major English brand on finishing term (though Paolo Scafora is definitely more "pointy" for lack of better word)

 

[compuccesory]

I think that's more than fair, they're all CJ to my knowledge, other than old stock, don't think there is any more AS/Grenson these days.

I prefer Paul Stuart's CJ to BB by far because they're mostly on same mainstream last (348/341/360) rather than BB which was like 90% on 240 (which doesn't look that great, and at least for me doesn't fit that well either).

I didn't pick up Paolo Scafora because I'm mostly on Antonio Meccariello these day as I know AM fits me well and Paolo Scafora is unkonwn quantity (and exploring bunch higher end Chinese handwelt guys).

I think Paolo Scafora is well worth the price, just by looking at Paolo Scafora's picture alone (old Skoat stuff and others), it easily beats all major English brand on finishing term (though Paolo Scafora is definitely more "pointy" for lack of better word)

That's interesting, there's this C&J Hand grade no-lace, it's an interesting look and they have my size too

Loren Slip-On Wing Tip

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

These are CJ Benchgrade presumably

Baako Wingtip Lace-up

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

...and this antique calf

Madrid Floating Medallion Oxford

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

THe description says blake, but based on MSRP that's got to be one of their higher end lines, Paolo Scafora as you said, and that's a pretty remarkable amount of sewn detail for a blake rapid shoe. I wonder if the description is correct.

Well that's just what they have in my size, some of the deals seem solid but it's tough to justify $300 for a GYW shoe when you can get handwelt Meermin for that much.

 

[clee1982]

I didn’t inquire the last one (I asked 3 explicitly so they told me which last they are on). I think Paola Scafora are they like all Italian manufactures they can do anything (Blake/GYW/Handwelt). A proper norwegian stitching from Paolo Scafora is going to cost like 1.6k? So maybe it’s possible to do Blake then decorative, no idea?

I still take aesthetics first though, like not handwe is not an auto no for me, I would think these Paolo Scafora would finish way better than Meermin construction aside

 

[Kalec]

Any idea on how each specific last they are?

Gerry Cap Toe Lace Up with Medallion

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

Baako Wingtip Lace-up

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

The Westbourne Brown Leather Cap Toe

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

Earl Leather Monk Strap

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

These are def 348 last as shown on their images.

Rosebery Leather Penny Loafer

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

This one is 330 last

IIRC 348 < 240 < 330 in wideness.

 

[Kalec]

Master Plain Toe Lace Up

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

“Cemented Construction" for a pair of MSRP $995 shoes.