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Paul Stuart Custom?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gherrmann, Sep 25, 2012.

  1. gherrmann

    gherrmann Senior member

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    Does anyone have any experience with the newish "custom" operation at Paul Stuart (which supposedly is more "custom" than their existing MTM offerings)? Would appreciate hearing any impressions folks might have. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Found these images on maximinus blog.

    I'll post my own soon enough.
     
  3. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Is this MTM with a basted fitting?
     
  4. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    They do a basted, forward, and final fitting for first time customers. This is my first foray into custom/bespoke so I wouldn't be able to tell if its mtm with a bunch of fittings. They pretty much nailed the fit at the basted fitting which made the forward fitting seem almost redundant. Go to the store and check out the suits, and talk to Mark the product is pretty impressive.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013
  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Update: Suits are nice in terms of style and fit but a bit over priced for what you are really buying. If you are interested in drape style suits and a real bespoke suit go to Steed.
     
  6. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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  7. tps16

    tps16 Senior member

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    We're you happy with the result? Also, thought it was bespoke? I'm going for a 2nd fitting on a jacket there soon
     
  8. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    I am very pleased with how the product turned out and will use them for certain commissions. The jacket that was made is as close as you can get to bespoke for a jacket made in a factory. The chest and lapels are padded by hand. The pants aren't necessarily bespoke and are pretty much done at the basted fitting. I was a bit disappointed when my first suit had really high wasted trouser that were already finished at the initial fitting. This was something I did not ask for in the initial consultation. Also, the buttonholes aren't as fine on the pants in comparison to the jacket. It's an impressive product but it doesn't fit my definition of bespoke. I'd rather be measured by the person cutting my coat and support the artisans of a "dying" trade. At the price PS charges I'd rather go with a real artisan.

    However, I think they make some unique peak lapels and will use them for special garments. I hope this helps.
     
  9. tps16

    tps16 Senior member

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    Thanks for the insight. My main concern at the first fitting was that the shoulders were a little too extended and Mark agreed to take them in a hair. Everything else looked good. Mark has been very professional throughout the process and a pleasure to work with. He's clearly passionate about the product.

    This is my first "drape" jacket, so I'm viewing it as an experiment. I wasn't informed that the jacket was made in a factory though. Greenfield?
     
  10. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    He's a nice guy, and will make sure everything thing is right. He made the comment that his product is just as good as regular bespoke houses, and probably the reason why he uses the word custom. I never asked if it was made by Greenfield but one can assume. The jacket is union made, but the buttonholes for the jacket are made by someone else.

    It's a beautiful product and will use them again. For now I would like to support the real artisans.
     
  11. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Greenfield is the factory.
     
  12. tps16

    tps16 Senior member

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    Thanks!



    Yes, he did mention to me about his buttonhole person. The ones I saw looked quite nice. I thought the fit was mostly spot-on with the exception of the shoulders, but it was hard to see where the drape will be, so I'm looking forward to seeing how it's shaping up.
     
  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  14. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Is that true? He told me quite explictly that it was not Greenfield and everything was done in-house.
     
  15. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    Superb operation. I recommend them.

    I have had some trousers made. The fit and detailing were excellent. I shall return.

    It is a custom garment in both fit and make. In comparison, the Paul Stuart MTM program (still available and made by Samuelsohn) is less custom in both fit and make.

    Paul Stuart Custom is run by Mark Rykken, the former owner and manager of Alan Flusser Custom. (Alan is still carrying-on the business.) Therefore, the garments are similar to Alan Flusser. Invididual paper patterns are made for the customer, and there is a basted try-on of the coat.

    Mark has been in the custom clothing business for about 30 years. When you buy from him you are getting his taste, judgment, and experience.

    If you are looking for a small, "mom of pop" tailor (with "mom and pop" prices), this is not the place.
     
  16. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    I believe you were told a falsehood unless something changed recently.
     
  17. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    I'm starting to realize the value of how its made should take precedence over where it's made. It's an impressive product, and Mark has very good taste.
     
  18. gherrmann

    gherrmann Senior member

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    Mark, would you mind sharing pricing information on the trousers you hade made, either here or by PM? Thanks in advance.

     
  19. tps16

    tps16 Senior member

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    Last edited: May 24, 2014

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