patch pockets

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by seanandnik, Oct 24, 2004.

  1. seanandnik

    seanandnik Senior member

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    I don't know if they are less formal or what, but i really like the look of patch pockets on jackets. I tend to see them more on cashmere jackets and suits. Are they acceptable for suits or not ? i think it was a Kiton, but I saw a sportcoat on Ebay that had all 3 patch pockets in the front and i really liked it, so what is the rule on this ?
     


  2. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    They are typically only found on odd casual jackets and country suits, meaning tweeds and such. The most formal thing they are usually considered allowable on would be an American SB blazer. Almost exclusively with heavier fabrics as well, like camel hair, cashmere flannel, tweed, corduroy, etc.
     


  3. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    They are quite common on sportcoats and are regarded a bit more sporty and casual than other types. I think they are much too casual for a buissness suit but I could imagine a sporty tweed suit with patch pockets.

    Practically speaking they loose out to other types. While you can get away with putting small objects into flap pockets, anything you put into a patch pocket will stretch it and make a bulge so they are only for show.

    B
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Patch pockets are acceptable for less formal suits, particularly summer suits.  The Neapolitans like them because patch pockets work well on an unconstructed coat.  Cut-through pockets have fairly intricate "guts" that have to be covered with something on the inside.  Unlined or partially lined suits are better off with patch pockets. Also, the guts of cut-through pockets add bulk (and warmth).  Patch pockets, on the other hand, are just one extra piece of cloth sewn over the outside of the coat.

    I disagree with j about them being only appropriate on heavy cloth.  I think they work quite well with lightweight cloth, with linens and frescoes and mohairs, for instance.  In fact, with these cloths, I prefer patch pockets.
     


  5. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Manton, that's probably true. I personally don't have much experience with suits of lighter fabrics and light construction, so I appreciate the correction.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    In Seattle, I can see why you wouldn't.

    One more thing: it's important that the shape be right.  The opening at the top should be cut straight, but the corners at the bottom should be fairly dramatically curved.  The sides should angle gently inward toward the top.  The widest point of the pocket should just above the curves; the opening at the top should be narrower by a fraction of an inch on each side.  Pockets cut like this (narrower at the top, wider at the bottom) replicate the shape of the coat's skirt.  Also, the curved edges at the bottom of the pocket reflect the curved edges of the bottom of the coat front.  That's why the front edges of pocket flaps are also curved in the same way on SB coats, but cut at an angle on DB coats.  (By this principle, one might think that patch pockets on DB coats should be cut square, but it doesn't work this way.  One of the irrational exceptions of tailoring.  "Irrational" but not pointless; sqaure cut pockets would be a lot less graceful.)
     


  7. stache

    stache Senior member

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    Manton, beautifully stated. :thumbsup:
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Fresco is a plain weave worsted that is woven from thickish 2-ply (or even 3- or 4-ply) yarns. Â The end result is heavier, so it drapes well, but porous and spongy (i.e., not dense like, say, gabardine) so that it is more breathable. Â You can get a decent idea of the weave from the pictures linked below. Â Notice how you can really see the tiny "holes" in the lighter colors. http://www.hollandandsherry.com/coll...00/hs247a.html
     


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