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Passus shoes - Fine Shoes from Budapest - Official Affiliate Thread

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Today we present to you the first pair of boots we created. Modeled after a vintage US Army boot and finished on the1000 last. Soft and supple Italian grain leather in beautiful brown hue (we have more of the leather from MTO :)) The shoes were made for Patrick of @tichoblancoshoes who kindly sent us the pictures he recently took. What are your impressions?

Giving the boots a second look, I probably would have gone with a more aggressive sole (Dainite, Ridgeway, etc,).

Furthermore, although it would alter the look somewhat, I would have selected speed hooks. Mostly for my ease of use as opposed to anything functional.

That aside, it is a fantastic looking boot. Based on the overall aesthetic of the boot, an individual can go in several directions in terms of leather color and texture whilst maintaining the feel of a military boot.
 

Passus Shoes

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Giving the boots a second look, I probably would have gone with a more aggressive sole (Dainite, Ridgeway, etc,).

Furthermore, although it would alter the look somewhat, I would have selected speed hooks. Mostly for my ease of use as opposed to anything functional.

That aside, it is a fantastic looking boot. Based on the overall aesthetic of the boot, an individual can go in several directions in terms of leather color and texture whilst maintaining the feel of a military boot.
Thank you for the observations. An aggressive sole definitely would work here are well, we are making the other new boot samples (on the dedicated last) with the Vibram Eton sole we used before. We were deliberating on the speed hooks and well and in the end decided to not have them on this model.

As you said, the pattern is great to interpret it in different ways. We were putting a lot of effort into creating distinctive, casual yet elegant boots. Hope you'll like the ones coming too. :)
 

acapaca

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Looks great! And wow, that leather looks really, really tasty. I hope to see more of that!

Are those soles not pegged?
 

Passus Shoes

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Looks great! And wow, that leather looks really, really tasty. I hope to see more of that!

Are those soles not pegged?
Good observation. They are not pegged, they are fully welted and stitched by hand in the full length of the sole. The reason is that we decided to not have a beveled waist on the boots. So the shoes can be fully stitched in the whole length of the sole. In this case, pegs are not needed. If they would be used with this construction they could eventually damage the stitching.
 

Mr. Six

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I recently received an MTO pair of single monks from Rezso. As far as I know, this is what will be their standard monk pattern. I had considered asking for a different pattern, but decided that I should get what the Passus team imagines when they think about a monk. This is the dark brown Hunter's suede. It's actually darker than what I had wanted. I has seen photos of the suede samples and thought that wet sand would be too warm. Based on the swatch, I thought it would be lighter than the dark brown Vass below. They aren't, but I still quite like them.

These have single soles. I had hoped to do double-to-sinigle, but it sounds like that isn't an option yet. The work on the soles is quite good. The fudging and stitching is very clean. The finishing of the soles is lovely. The peg work is perhaps not quite as clean as St. Crispins--I've included a photo for comparison. The waists are beautiful.

The suede is a short nap and very supple. The quality is very high, based on my experience.

These are on the 1000 last. Most of my shoes are Vass F last. I also have a pair of St. C on Classic with last modifications. The St. C fit the best, no surprise. F last is generally very good for the shape of my feet, which is narrow with low insteps but plenty of quirks. Sometimes a pair on F has a little too much volume for me or hits my foot in an odd place. The 1000 last is a great fit on the instep with a good fit on the forefoot and snug heels--at least as much as I can tell wearing them in my house. We'll have to see how they work out with more wear. Aesthetically, the 1000 last has some similarities to F and Classic, but as you can see, it's a bit more elongated and not quite as symmetrical. I like 1000, but perhaps prefer F and Classic just a little bit.

One quirk is that the straps only have a single hole. Although they also have elastic, I might want to be able to do more adjustment as they break in. I believe I have a leather awl and can add a couple holes myself, if I decide I need them. I wasn't expecting just a single hole, however.

Overall, I think these are winners all around, and I'm looking forward to the day that I leave the house in tailored clothes again so that I can get some wear on these and see what I think about they feel through the course of a day.

Here are some pics, including comparisons with Vass and St. C.

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Passus Shoes

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Dear @Mr. Six,

Thank you for the thorough review, and the last comparisons. I am sure it helps a lot for other members.

About the single hole in the shoes...we have deliberately put only one hole, so if that position is not perfect for you can make another one to get the best fit. With suede, it can happen over time that due to stretching of the leather you will feel that its a bit loose. Perhaps its best to ask a cobbler to do it, who has a hole punching tool.

We are glad that you like the shoes and are curious about your opinion after you wore them a number of times.
 

Passus Shoes

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You might have noticed on our online store that we started to carry Saphir Medaille d'Or shoe care products to serve the needs of all aficionados out there. So if you are out of some of your favorites from the esteemed brand's products, look no further.

Even better, we are offering a free set with every shoe purchase you make with us. You can find our range of Saphir products here.

Saphir-4 (1).jpg
 

brax

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You might have noticed on our online store that we started to carry Saphir Medaille d'Or shoe care products to serve the needs of all aficionados out there. So if you are out of some of your favorites from the esteemed brand's products, look no further.

Even better, we are offering a free set with every shoe purchase you make with us. You can find our range of Saphir products here.

That hatch grain looks great. Looking forward to visiting your shop (and Budapest) once this Covid lifts.
 

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