Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnapril, Jun 3, 2005.
If you meet Ernest you must go to Dunheel and purchase some cashmere jumpers fro only 80 euro.
Guide in Paris, giving advices and finding the best price
100 euros per day
Aubercy is very good quality. What brand isn't overpriced anyway comparing to a pair made in China ?
Have you you checked C&J, Paraboots, Church's, la Cordonnerie Anglaise, Vanson... ?????
I have a couple of suits in size 52R and 53R i would like to sell; may be you could see them for you or a friend?
If I may make a few comments on shoemakers in Paris:
Well, I call them the top three --- Berluti, Corthay, and Aubercy. All of them are connected to Berluti in some way (both Pierre Corthay and Martin Didiez from Aubercy apprenticed at Berluti).
Berluti: Styling subjective to your taste. I personally find it unique, and amazingly unique. Craftsmanship of RTW leaves much to be desired, but the bespoke are top-notch. The fitting process is serious, and the bespoke shoes are a thousand times better than the ready-made.
Corthay: the RTW are made with Japanese buyers in mind. If you are in Corthay, you don't buy RTW. The bespoke shoes are good, though I find the goodyear welting in Berluti more elegant. The house style chiselled toe is subjective --- I like it personally, but if you have been baptized in traditional English shoe styles you might have a bit of problem with it.
Aubercy: just received my first order. Tres elegante. I ultimately picked Aubercy over Corthay because Corthay was too much like Berluti, and Martin Didiez offers something a bit different, with the same elegant goodyear as Berluti. The whole family is passionate about their shoes, and the whole process shows the work of more than just Didiez, but Xavier (the grandson) and his parents. They gave me a great deal of advises over the finish of the leather and styling, etc.. The craftsmanship is top-notch. By the way, I ordered a matching belt with it, and it's the best belt I ever had (makes Hermes or Weston belts look like a toy, and it's cheaper than a ready-made Hermes belt.). I'd definitely order from Aubercy again.
In short, I would myself rank Berluti and Aubercy over Corthay. Berluti's uniqueness is jaw-dropping, but don't order from Berluti unless you have a particular design/style that can only be realized by Berluti --- meaning, don't order a captoe at Berluti, you might be disappointed. In my opinion, Berluti is meant for artists who have a great deal of imaginations, who is commissioning a pair of shoes that would be fit for a shoe museum; so is Aubercy, maybe just a bit less. Corthay can do all the traditional styles with great fluency and with touches of whim, highly recommended if you want something discreetly elegant (a two-eyelet derby, punched captoe, penny loafers, etc.); but for something unique, you're better off at Berluti or Aubercy.
By the way, I left out Lobb Paris because their styling is, strictly speaking, not Parisien. Their shoes may speak better English than French, so when I think of French shoe-making, it's always the top three I mentioned above.
should i really think about shopping at any discount places in Paris?
have fun and enjoy yourself in the eternal city. if you have a free evening, try brassarie balzar by the sorbonne. I am very very jealous.
Ernest, is this your version of a joke a-la MasterCard commercial:
Purchasing LV goods for Japanese tourists: +320 Euro (42,170.98 Yen)
Cashmere jumpers on sale at Dunheel: 80 Euro
Personalized tour of shopping and eating in Paris: 100 Euro
Wearing a brown jacket when meeting Ernest at Hilditch & Key Paris while he is fighting with the store manager: priceless.
Or are you actually offering a service? (i.e. working???)
What do you mean?
The Dunhill on the Rue de la Paix is lovely.
Also Goyard's traditional shop.
(naturlaut @ June 04 2005,08:01) Corthay: the RTW are made with Japanese buyers in mind.
What do you mean?
The only place you'll find Corthay RTW is in Japan. Even the Rue Volney store/workshop does not stock much of the RTW. They opened a shop in Japan and stocked up on RTW for those shoefreaks who are also after the label. In my opinion, they are following the footsteps of Berluti. Pretty soon they will be coming with accessories.
Aldens seem to have a popular following in Germany and the Netherlands. The Germans seem to have an affinity for more robust shoes. My local Edward Green retailer dropped EG and kept Alden , when I asked why, they said that Aldens outsold EG by a huge margin.... then again, the store was a bastion of the older businessmen. btw. what do you mean by European clothing being "advanced"?
I'll second that.
And the Charvet building.
Alden shoes are absolutely huge in Germany. It is by far the most highly regarded and desired brand of shoes. Whether Alden's styling touches something unconscious in the German mind or is just the result of excellent PR, I cannot tell. (Alden hasn't been available in Germany all that long, maybe fifteen years, twenty at the most.)
When I was in Berlin in April and visited Quartier 206 (a tiny, exclusive "department store" in Friedrichstrasse), they mentioned that a week or two later, they had John Lobb (London) conducting a measuring session. John Lobb (London) might not produce the best bespoke shoes in the world, it's definitely the best known name (bar none). Same thing applies to Alden shoes in Germany.
I wonder how well Alden is selling in France. It seems that the Berluti school of design has swept everything before them and even cheaper makes like Finsbury, Emling or Vaneau try to capture that look.
Separate names with a comma.