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Paris update

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnapril, Jun 3, 2005.

  1. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Corthay: RTW Goodyear welted shoes made in France beginning at EU780. They have a collection of shoes at the shop which you can have colored any way you like. This took 4 days to have done.

    Cifonelli: suits here are slim-fitting, beautifully constructed, ranging from very traditional to slanted pockets and ticket pockets. Shoulders are soft but with a little peak at the drop before the shoulder. RTW about EU1795/

    Aubercy: overpriced, not that interesting once you get up close

    John Lobb: impeccable. Found some black boots here that fit unbelieveably well.

    JM Weston: yucky-looking, and that's being generous. The leather leaves much to be desired, and they were, for the most part, uncomfortable.

    Old England: I guess, short of Lobb, I don't like English styles. Lots of choices, but in a way they begin to look the same. Sorry.

    Time for dinner. Hope you boys in the States are well.
     
  2. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sounds like fun..

    You might want to look around for Santoni - they do some pretty amazing models for the French market. And maybe Altan, and Marc Guyot at Cape Cod.
     
  3. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    Did you check out Albaladejo? How much are they at the Paris store nowaday?
     
  4. scnupe7

    scnupe7 Senior member

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    More importantly, have you seen or do you plan to see Ernest?
     
  5. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Man, I'm jealous. Maybe I can hit Europe next summer though...
     
  6. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you see ernest, will you be wearing brown?
     
  7. Pressfan

    Pressfan Well-Known Member

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    I was by there last week, but did not go in as it was after closing. From the display in the window, cordovan shoes were 500 euros and regular calfskin were 395 euros, if I remember correctly.

    Printemps no longer had Lobbs, but had a large selection of Westons (larger than I remember from last year) including a double or triple soled demi-chasse, but it was about 880 euros versus 440 euros for the regular one.

    Oddly enough, I saw Alden cordovans in several places, including the Galeries as well as in an Heyraud (.?.).

    Not to hijack the thread, but I noticed quite a good selection of Aldens in Berlin as well at Quartier 206 and Budapester Schue. The Aldens seemed a little incongruous at Quartier 206, given that the clothing was very European and advanced (for me at least), but given the paucity of the brand in these parts, interesting to see. Budapester had more fashionable shoes in the forefront, but did also carry Crockett & Jones and the like.
     
  8. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    I have a brown S150/Silk mix Loro Piana fabric suit, next time I'm going to Paris i'm wearing that suit and start the Ernest hunt.
     
  9. dorian

    dorian Senior member

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    (RJMan @ June 03 2005,19:34) If you see ernest, will you be wearing brown?
    I have a brown S150/Silk mix Loro Piana fabric suit, next time I'm going to Paris i'm wearing that suit and start the Ernest hunt.
    lol... I heard a rumor that Ernest has a 'Brown is for Farmer' squad scouring Paris for people daring enough to pass the city walls (so to speak) wearing a brown suit. Be careful.
     
  10. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    (Roy @ June 03 2005,13:47)
    If you see ernest, will you be wearing brown?
    I have a brown S150/Silk mix Loro Piana fabric suit, next time I'm going to Paris i'm wearing that suit and start the Ernest hunt.
    lol... I heard a rumor that Ernest has a 'Brown is for Farmer' squad scouring Paris for people daring enough to pass the city walls (so to speak) wearing a brown suit. Be careful.
    I'll carry wooden stakes and silver bullets, don't you worry. I'd probably just have to go to Lanvin during sales time [​IMG] Anyway, in the opening post I read about Corthay. I am not familiar with the brand how would you guys rate those shoes?
     
  11. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    (RJMan @ June 03 2005,19:34) If you see ernest, will you be wearing brown?
    I have a brown S150/Silk mix Loro Piana fabric suit, next time I'm going to Paris i'm wearing that suit and start the Ernest hunt.
    "...be vewwy vewwy quiet I'm hunting Fwoggies..." If Corthay's goodyear-welted I'd say it's better value than Berluti, with similar styling and similar coloring options. Made in Portugal, I believe (RTW).
     
  12. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Given that you are talking about the French, shouldn't it be deodorant you're carrying to ward them off? Sorry, sorry, low jibe.
     
  13. Roy

    Roy Senior member

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    (Roy @ June 03 2005,13:55) I'll carry wooden stakes and silver bullets, don't you worry. I'd probably just have to go to Lanvin during sales time [​IMG]
    Given that you are talking about the French, shouldn't it be deodorant you're carrying to ward them off? Â Sorry, sorry, low jibe.
    I was thinking about packing Garlic. But then I thought i'd probably just attract them [​IMG]
     
  14. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Indiana is for farmer.
     
  15. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Corthay is a Paris shoemaker with an additional line of ready-to-wear. Apparently they acquired some financial backering, opened recently in Tokyo and have high hopes for world domination. http://www.paillette.net/ I cannot comment on the actual quality of the shoes, as I have never seen them in real life.
     
  16. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    If you meet Ernest you must go to Dunheel and purchase some cashmere jumpers fro only 80 euro.

    Jon.
     
  17. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    Guide in Paris, giving advices and finding the best price

    100 euros per day
     
  18. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    Aubercy is very good quality. What brand isn't overpriced anyway comparing to a pair made in China ?

    Have you you checked C&J, Paraboots, Church's, la Cordonnerie Anglaise, Vanson... ?????
     
  19. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    I have a couple of suits in size 52R and 53R i would like to sell; may be you could see them for you or a friend?
     
  20. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    If I may make a few comments on shoemakers in Paris:

    Well, I call them the top three --- Berluti, Corthay, and Aubercy. All of them are connected to Berluti in some way (both Pierre Corthay and Martin Didiez from Aubercy apprenticed at Berluti).

    Berluti: Styling subjective to your taste. I personally find it unique, and amazingly unique. Craftsmanship of RTW leaves much to be desired, but the bespoke are top-notch. The fitting process is serious, and the bespoke shoes are a thousand times better than the ready-made.

    Corthay: the RTW are made with Japanese buyers in mind. If you are in Corthay, you don't buy RTW. The bespoke shoes are good, though I find the goodyear welting in Berluti more elegant. The house style chiselled toe is subjective --- I like it personally, but if you have been baptized in traditional English shoe styles you might have a bit of problem with it.

    Aubercy: just received my first order. Tres elegante. I ultimately picked Aubercy over Corthay because Corthay was too much like Berluti, and Martin Didiez offers something a bit different, with the same elegant goodyear as Berluti. The whole family is passionate about their shoes, and the whole process shows the work of more than just Didiez, but Xavier (the grandson) and his parents. They gave me a great deal of advises over the finish of the leather and styling, etc.. The craftsmanship is top-notch. By the way, I ordered a matching belt with it, and it's the best belt I ever had (makes Hermes or Weston belts look like a toy, and it's cheaper than a ready-made Hermes belt.). I'd definitely order from Aubercy again.

    In short, I would myself rank Berluti and Aubercy over Corthay. Berluti's uniqueness is jaw-dropping, but don't order from Berluti unless you have a particular design/style that can only be realized by Berluti --- meaning, don't order a captoe at Berluti, you might be disappointed. In my opinion, Berluti is meant for artists who have a great deal of imaginations, who is commissioning a pair of shoes that would be fit for a shoe museum; so is Aubercy, maybe just a bit less. Corthay can do all the traditional styles with great fluency and with touches of whim, highly recommended if you want something discreetly elegant (a two-eyelet derby, punched captoe, penny loafers, etc.); but for something unique, you're better off at Berluti or Aubercy.
     

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