Pants Tailoring Question: "Military Hem"

[jrd617]

I have a high instep and usually wear derby shoes. This is causing a couple pair of pants with half/full break to bunch up in the front. I like the current length in the back, though I could probably go a bit shorter.

I think a solution to this would be to get them re-tailored with a "military hem." (See picture 2 - cut on a slight slant; longer in the back and shorter in the front)

Questions:

1). Would this work?

2). What should I ask for specifically? How much shorter should the back be from the front? A quarter inch or a half inch?

 

[jrd617]

I ask about my particular case because there's some disagreement on how much slant the hem in this thread: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?106867-Hem-pants-at-an-angle

 

[gettoasty]

I request the slant cut at the hem during my last alteration as I hated how my trousers get caught in the back.

Worked like a charm and very satisfied. I think my seamstress said it was .5 difference. YMMV

I posted some photos over at the "Tailor.." thread. FWIW I asked for slight break with the back hem being longer. I think it came out well. 8" inch taper btw.

Since you also mentioned derbys, I prefer oxfords always as hems just break better. I understand what you mean though when wearing derbys, ugh (I am wearing black derbys in the photo)

edit:
I believe one of the tailors also talks about the "military hem" in the thread.

 

[a tailor]

I usually slant a plain hem 1/2 inch.
More of a slant takes more time and effort.
Very extreme slants need smaller fabric turned up on the inside.
This means the length cannot be made longer if needed later on.

 

[Journeyman]

Just bear in mind that this can only be done with uncuffed trousers - you can't do it with cuffs (at least, that's what my tailor tells me) as the cuff wouldn't sit properly due to the slanted hem.

 

[Quadcammer]

all of my trousers have at least a .5" slant...but then I don't like much break in the front and can't stand the high wader look.

 

[Despos]

We mark hems with one inch difference. Fronts measure one inch shorter than the back. Here is the link to doing this with cuffs, so yes, it can be done

http://www.styleforum.net/t/278243/san-francisco-alterations-tailor/15#post_5054998

 

[Svenn]

Your problems might not all be solved if you just get the hem right, trousers not shaped to accommodate the calf often have ripples extending out from the hem upwards, or unsightly premature breaks.

 

[marcodalondra]



Just bear in mind that this can only be done with uncuffed trousers - you can't do it with cuffs (at least, that's what my tailor tells me) as the cuff wouldn't sit properly due to the slanted hem.

all my trousers are slanted, including cuffed. It does indeed create small ripples but are unnoticeable when worned

 

[OTCtailor]

I slant most hems that have no cuff if the customer asks. Otherwise, I keep it flat because it's easier.
The more the slant, the more work it is.

I slant cuffed trousers the "easy way" by simply adding a fisheyed dart to the forepart of the leg right behind the cuff so that it simply lifts the front of the cuff up a little. THere are definitely limitations to the amount you can do this and it only picks up the front instead of having a nice transition front to back. To me, it's a minor detail, but I'm also not a true cutter/bespoke tailor....yet.

 

[jrd617]

Thanks, a tailor, Despos and OTCTailor for you expertise

The military hem worked well on this pair of flannels. As a 5'10 person, I'm usually wary of getting cuffs

A slant of 1/2 inch can make a BIG difference for someone with a high instep.

Before

After

 

[12345Michael54321]



As a 5'10 person, I'm usually wary of getting cuffs

If you don't like cuffs, so be it. I happen to like them, but I won't order my secret police to round you up and throw you in prison without benefit of charges or trial, just because you don't like cuffs.

However, if the reason why you dislike cuffs is because you're 5'10", get over it. You're of average height or better for an adult man in most of the world, including the United States. Assuming your legs are in anything approaching normal proportion to your overall height, the fact that you're 5'10" tall does not represent any reason to eschew cuffs. The cuffs will not make you (or your legs) look short, nor will avoiding cuffs make you seem tall.

 

[jrd617]

I appreciate the comments, but no cuffs is just my personal preference. I have a longer torso and I think cuffs create a visual "break" in the lower legs (for lack of better word).

Cuffs are kind of superfluous anyways. Good for collecting dust, according to Cary Grant. To me, they're only useful on tropical wool pants that need some weight at the bottom make them hang straight

Again, just my preference. Thanks for not throwing me in a Gulag!

 

[gettoasty]

I'm sorry but, "CUUUUUUFFFFFFFS!!?" (to Michael's point)

jrd, both inseams look good. The latter looks very much like mine now that you added the difference from the front to the back hem. Will you continue this for all trousers?

 

[jrd617]

yep, military hem is the way to go now