Pants rise?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stu, May 23, 2005.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    (Fashionslave @ May 23 2005,15:32) I've noticed some of the vintage Savile Row suits I own have a long or high rise,more like 12.5".Was this the norm for vintage?
    I think it has less to do with when they were made than how they were made to be worn. Â Brace trousers need a higher rise. Â Belt trousers cut that high will just slip down; they need a slightly lower rise to stay in place.
    I guess that depends upon how fat you are. Personally, I prefer about a 12" rise (I'm 5'10" and have a 30 inch inseam when using a half break) on my suit and dress trousers. Any less and they either sit too low, or if I pull them up they can be a bit uncomfortable when sitting.
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Not so much fat as shape. Few men have a waist that is narrow enough at the sides to hold up trousers without suspenders, unless the waistband is so tight as to make the trousers excruciating to wear. Women, on the other hand ...
     


  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    (johnnynorman3 @ May 23 2005,15:44) I guess that depends upon how fat you are.
    Not so much fat as shape. Â Few men have a waist that is narrow enough at the sides to hold up trousers without suspenders, unless the waistband is so tight as to make the trousers excruciating to wear. Â Women, on the other hand ...
    In order to have this shape, you essentially have to be Brad Pitt fit, i.e. with a waist/ratio no higher than 0.9. Not easy to do. I've been trying halfheartedly for a while, but resisting the calzone is difficult.
     


  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Late night calzone runs end with marriage, LA Guy -- I speak from experience.
     


  5. esvoboda

    esvoboda Well-Known Member

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    I think plain-front trousers can be worn with a slightly lower rise than pleated-front trousers, all things being equal.

    LA Guy: Thanks for your recommendations.
     


  6. Oddly Familiar

    Oddly Familiar Senior member

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    (Manton @ May 23 2005,12:58) You essentially have to be Brad Pitt fit, i.e. with a waist/ratio no higher than 0.9. Â Not easy to do. Â I've been trying halfheartedly for a while, but resisting the calzone is difficult.
    Please explain to me what a waist ratio is. I've never heard of that before.
     


  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I hadn't either, until BrianSD mentioned it. Essentially, it describes the ratio of the waist to the hip diameters.

    Apparently (according to something Brian read), the ratio most men find most attractive in women is 0.7. and the ratio most women find most attractive in a man is 0.9. The thread was discussing what men and women find attractive, and Brian's post contended (and I agree) that most guys find fit but not ridiculously skinny women most attractive, and most women find fit, but not Ahnold fit, guys attractive - Brad Pitt is more of the ideal for most women. Now you know all about that thread (I think that it was in the general topics forum.)
     


  8. Oddly Familiar

    Oddly Familiar Senior member

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    How do I find out what I am?
     


  9. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    deleted (duplicate post)
     


  10. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    By counting how often women faint when you walk by them.
     


  11. Oddly Familiar

    Oddly Familiar Senior member

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    Let's see... There was that one time.
     


  12. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    Is pants rise simply the difference between outseam and inseam? Or you have take the curvature into account by measuring from top of waistband along the zipper to bottom of crotch where the 4 pieces of cloth seamed together?
     


  13. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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  14. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    That's the rise as I understand it.
     


  15. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    You've lost me on the ratio thing, but regarding pants rise --- classically speaking, the rise of the pants should be around where you button your jacket, thus little (or even no) shirt around the waist is shown between where you button your jacket and the trousers waist. However, button stance used to be a bit lower, hence the higher rise in pants who are cut in the old style (12 1/2", 12 3/4" or thereabouts) like Incotex. Button stance has been on a rise the past 50 years or so, but the rise of the pants hasn't changed much except going lower and lower. RTW Neapolitan makers have a short rise of 11" (or mostly around 11 1/2"), so if your shirt waist aren't tailored right, it will look very ugly.
     


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