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Pants rise?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stu, May 23, 2005.

  1. Stu

    Stu Distinguished Member

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    I was wondering what the general rules are related to pants rise. I assume a shorter rise means a more modern look, correct? I saw some nice Incotex trousers from the informal line. The rise was 12.25 inches. Is that long? Too long? Is it like, old-manish? Or would that look OK on a late 30s early 40s guy for a casual elegant look?
     


  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    Most suit trousers, from my measuring experience, are 12.5."  For example, your Isaia suit (you got one from STP, right?) should have a 12.5" rise.  I think a 12.25" Incotex rise would look perfectly fine with a dress shirt and blazer. If they are so informal as to be more like jeans, than it's probably not the best look.
     


  3. Stu

    Stu Distinguished Member

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  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    Oh, those aren't "modern". Those are pretty classic (Incotex is a slim, but straight, leg, BTW). I think that the 12.25" right sounds about right. Would look very nice with a dress shirt and a blazer, among other things.
     


  5. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Distinguished Member

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    that's a bit expensive for a pair of pants which look very classic to me. Fabrics is nothing to fret about, colour is rather ugly, and this is quite a high rise. Not to mention it's made in portugal... I don't honestly see how these could retail at $375.

    .luc
     


  6. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    Wha?

    (1) "COLOR IS UGLY" -- is a light khaki color. What's ugly about it?
    (2) "High rise" -- 12.25" is not a high rise for a pair of dress pants. I would argue that it is a perfect rise for this pair of pants for a guy in his 30s, especially if intended for wear with a blazer.
    (3) "Made in Portugal" -- Portugal makes some incredibly good pants; it is hardly third world labor, and nothing that Incotex puts its name on is poor quality.
    (4) "Fabric nothing to fret about" -- how can you know this without having touched it? Based on Incotex's track record, I'd say this is going to be a terrific fabric.
    (5) "130 a lot for a pair of pants" -- I disagree mightily here. It's a great price for a pair of Incotex.
     


  7. esvoboda

    esvoboda Well-Known Member

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    This photos have a greenish cast to them. Notice how the carpet also has a green tint? I took one of the photos into Photoshop and corrected for the green cast. I bet that carpet is grey not green-grey. The trousers turned into a classic khaki/tan color. Since I don't know for sure that the carpet is actually a medium grey, don't blame me if I'm wrong. I bet the color is just fine.
     


  8. Stu

    Stu Distinguished Member

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    Those pants are from Ian Daniels, so if he says they are beige you can probably take it to the bank.
     


  9. esvoboda

    esvoboda Well-Known Member

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    If someone wanted less of a rise in something in quality comparable to that pair of Incotex, what would the options be? I'm rarely impressed by the quality of most designer labels.
     


  10. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I'd go directly to Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, and Costume National. Quality of the first two are higher than the last, and the prices are also slightly higher, but I prefer the slimmer styling of Costume. Helmut Lang is probably best if you are looking for something middle of the road.
     


  11. dorian

    dorian Senior Member

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    Any reasoning behind a certain Neapolitan tailoring house cutting trousers with a 11" rise? For reference, is that a bit like hip-huggers? I've never noticed them to be so, although they don't rise as high as Chester Barrie trousers (RTW), or any Savile Row trousers I've seen, for that matter.
     


  12. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior Member

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    I've noticed some of the vintage Savile Row suits I own have a long or high rise,more like 12.5".Was this the norm for vintage?
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Italians tend to prefer belts over suspenders, and this require lower rise trousers. Plus, the typical Southern Italian male is a bit on the short side, and his torso-to-leg ratio is closer to 1:1 rather than (say) 1:1.25.
     


  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I think it has less to do with when they were made than how they were made to be worn. Brace trousers need a higher rise. Belt trousers cut that high will just slip down; they need a slightly lower rise to stay in place.
     


  15. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior Member

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    Aha-I see.That's makes sense-they all have the buttons for braces inside.Thanks,Manton.
     


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