Pants are always too small! Tailoring advice please.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cube99, Sep 8, 2012.

  1. cube99

    cube99 New Member

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    Hello, new to the forum, and would like to get your advice on adjustments to suit pants.

    I wear size 40R jackets. Usually a perfect fit. Unfortunately the pants that come with the suit are really way to small around the waist (usually 4 to 5 inches), and there isn't enough material in the back of the pants to make up for the difference (usually only 1 or 2" are available).

    If I take some extra-material from the the bottom of the pants, i think technically a good tailor could add it to both sides of the waist seams to get my waist fit. But am worried that it might be very noticeable. I have never seen this in person.

    Can anybody who has done this comment on the results and would you recommend it? I know an alternative is going bespoke, but was just wondering if the pants adjustments per above is a feasible way to go from a results/appearance perspective. Additionally can anyone recommend a very good tailor in the DC/MD/VA area?

    Thanks very much!
     
  2. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    I don't recommend adding cuff material to the waist. Even with a good tailor, I don't think you will like the results. One option is suit separates. These are suits where you buy the jacket and pants separately, so you can pick your size. Unfortunately, suit separates tend to be low-end and poor quality. There are probably exceptions to this, and maybe someone can recommend some decent separates.

    Another alternative (cheaper than bespoke) is Made-To-Measure. While not as customized as bespoke, this option allows you to tweak certain aspects of the suit. Changing the drop (difference between jacket and pants sizes) is one of these tweaks.

    The third possibility is getting off-the-rack made-to-order. Most MTM places will let you do this as well. They will place an order for the suit in the sizes you require without any tweaks. This should be the same price as off-the-rack. This may be your best bet over MTM and bespoke. If you are relatively new to suiting and aren't necessarily sure what you like yet, it is better to avoid bespoke and MTM.
     
  3. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    It would be a very bad idea to do as you suggest and would look more than simply noticeable...

    Your choices are either go to a shop where jackets and trousers are sold as separates, then MTM or at the the of the tree, bespoke.
     
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    it would work on a plain cloth. because the cut off cloth being narrow, would
    need to be used horizontally. so that the pattern would not match.
    the plain cloth would show the seams where the extra cloth was added.
    the addition would be a large V with a seam down the middle.
    it would not show only you kept the jacket on.

    heres a thought. talk it over with your tailor.
    get a suit with pleated trousers.
    since the waist is the only concern have him do this.
    let out the waist in back. thats 2"
    let out the two small pleats. thats another 2"
    if thats not enough the two large pleats can be
    partially reduced in depth to make up the difference.
    and yes the cut off from the trouser bottom must be used to
    extend the waist band. it will hardly show under your belt.
    this will work better if the extra waist measure you carry is toward the
    front and sides rather than in the back.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2012
  5. cube99

    cube99 New Member

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    Thank you folks.

    hi "msulinski" no I am not new to suits but am kinda tired of getting nice quality suits one size larger than I need only so that the pants fit and then adjusting down the jacket size. I also tried full canvassed bespoke and unfortunately where I am now despite having nice cloths/fabrics, the tailoring is a hit or miss...the other options suggested would unfortunately not work for me.
    "a tailor" I did what you suggested with the pleats on one of my canali suit pants and worked out great. Now though most of my suits pants are flat without any pleats, so I will try adding the extra material on the side with one pair of pants and see how it goes. If it really looks horrible, I will stop there and then!

    Again many thanks!
     

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