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Pant pocket troubles (pocket ears)

joseph_conc

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This is a problem that I seem to have with slim fitting pants. I like a fitted suit.. but the biggest problem with the fitted pants is the pant pocket. It bulges out like ears. I've attached pics for a better example.

WHY IS THERE A PROBLEM:
I know that the tighter the pants, the more the pocket will bulge out like that... (When a pocket is constructed it is made when the pant is flat on a table with point A: the one end of the pocket and point B: the other end of the pocket. ... but when you wear it.. you are stretching/filling in the pants. This creates a pull/stretch on the seam on the pants thereby decreasing the distance of point A and point B. But b/c both end's distance have decreased, the fabric of the facing-pocket is still the same, therefore creating "excess" fabric... the fabric has to go somewhere so it bulges out.)

Now... my question is.... how do you fix it or how do you tell your tailor how to make it so it doesn't have the bunny/bear ears.

I guess the BEST way is for the tailor to make the pocket while you are wearing it but... its really not feasible... Making the cloth when its flat on the table is really different from making it when its in 3D (ie: on you when you are wearing it)... but since clothes matters only when you are wearing it... how do you fix it?

Another way I can think of it is to make the pocket like... jean pocket... or very parallel to your pant waist...

Another way would be to just make the pants looser/bigger but that'll defeat the purpose of a slim look..

Also, I like to wear a vest (3-piece suit) ... and my body would be fitted, i'd have a clean silhouette .. but I would have this... bunny/bear ears sticking on the sides of my pants.
Anyone else has this problem with fitted suit pants?



 

Dragon

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Your pants are too tight. Let out the pants a bit and the pocket problem will be fixed.
 

Despos

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It is as much about the way these pockets are constructed ( poorly) as it is about the fit. You pretty much have to remake the upper part of the trouser to make these work.
 

StylingUK

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I have the same problem for one of my smaller trousers. Its because its too tight.
 

joseph_conc

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Originally Posted by Dragon
Your pants are too tight. Let out the pants a bit and the pocket problem will be fixed.
Wow, Dragon, your shoes in your pic is NICE!!!! I LOVE IT!!! Actually, the pocket is like that even in looser fittings, just not as extreme... but yah, without changing the construction of the pocket... loosing it would be the only way.. Howver, has anyone thought of a different pocket construction aside from the side seam and the slanted version? Would a less slated version (so that the slant is much less sloped than the traditional) work in a pant suit? would that ruin "the look"? The problem with looser fitting pants is that if you wore a waist coat on top, you would have a really clean line on the upper body, but sloppy looking with the looser pants. BTW thanks to the above posters for the quick response/suggestions
 

martinsth

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Originally Posted by Despos
It is as much about the way these pockets are constructed ( poorly) as it is about the fit. You pretty much have to remake the upper part of the trouser to make these work.

I would be very interested to know how that could be done. Does anybody have an idea?

If the only solution would be to make the pants wider - where would the appropriate place be to do so? The waist, the seat, the leg? Or would a higher waist mitigate the problem as well?

I love slim fit/low waisted suit pants, but hate pocket ears.
 

a tailor

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Originally Posted by joseph_conc
This is a problem that I seem to have with slim fitting pants. I like a fitted suit.. but the biggest problem with the fitted pants is the pant pocket. It bulges out like ears. I've attached pics for a better example.

WHY IS THERE A PROBLEM:
I know that the tighter the pants, the more the pocket will bulge out like that... (When a pocket is constructed it is made when the pant is flat on a table with point A: the one end of the pocket and point B: the other end of the pocket. ... but when you wear it.. you are stretching/filling in the pants. This creates a pull/stretch on the seam on the pants thereby decreasing the distance of point A and point B. But b/c both end's distance have decreased, the fabric of the facing-pocket is still the same, therefore creating "excess" fabric... the fabric has to go somewhere so it bulges out.)

Now... my question is.... how do you fix it or how do you tell your tailor how to make it so it doesn't have the bunny/bear ears.

I guess the BEST way is for the tailor to make the pocket while you are wearing it but... its really not feasible... Making the cloth when its flat on the table is really different from making it when its in 3D (ie: on you when you are wearing it)... but since clothes matters only when you are wearing it... how do you fix it?

Another way I can think of it is to make the pocket like... jean pocket... or very parallel to your pant waist...

Another way would be to just make the pants looser/bigger but that'll defeat the purpose of a slim look..

Also, I like to wear a vest (3-piece suit) ... and my body would be fitted, i'd have a clean silhouette .. but I would have this... bunny/bear ears sticking on the sides of my pants.
Anyone else has this problem with fitted suit pants?


is this a ready to wear, or a m2m? and is there outlet fabric in the back of the trouser.
 

patrickBOOTH

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Frogmouth pockets eliminate this problem. As does not taking off your jacket.
 

martinsth

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Frogmouth pockets eliminate this problem. As does not taking off your jacket.

Cheers for posting. Not too keen on neither tbh though.
 

nishankar

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high hip is tight ..two way to avoid this.
if waist band is straight piece ,add 1/4" to waist on each panel .so you gain 1".ease this to the waist band.don't make the wb length too short than your actual waist.

second option you can make the waist band little shaped. follow the same shape of the body. in this you will gain 1" at bottom of wb. add 1/4" to body panel. now no need easing. if fabric is solid color just cut 1 pair of fabric. donot cut the pattern.

if fabric has stripe then first you should cut this pattern in to three pieces. before cutting the pattern mark the belt loop placements in the pattern .then cut in the middle of the side loop placement. so that after joining the wb those joints can be hidden under the loops.
in the fabric you should cut 3 pair. try and see the result.





rgds
nishankar
 

RobM49

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I think this will happen on all of us that aren't a 'perfect' off-the-peg size. As we all know in the UK there is a standard 6" drop between chest and waist. Problem with this is that you then have to estimate how big a bum is and thighs are and if you rely on statistics, they are always going to be imperfect. I have had this problem too and the only way I have managed to solve it is to get a tailor to let the waste out about an inch or two but taper off very quick into the seam otherwise you will have the problem of flat pockets but a baggy seat. On the other hand, I have bought German made suits in the past because they seem to have a much wider size range, the equivalent of 40' - 41 - 42 - 43 etc. which gives you a better chance of a good fit. Of course, buying off the peg can be difficult but buying from somewhere that let's you buy trousers and jackets separately helps. Marks and Spencer's do a limited range of slim fits now and then which allows you to do this. I find I need to size up on the jacket though and always try several pairs of same-size trousers, could be that the :machinist was having a bad hair day and slipped a couple of extra inches into the waistband.
 

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