Pal Zileri Disect more pix

[Zegnamtl]

I only posted a pix of two quickly of the Pal Zileri Disect the other night. All the sewing appears machine sewn, but most being done by conventioanl sewing machines, not the buzz saw machines we see at the largest of factories. The interior finishing is very crude, but what the hell, the lining will cover it all, and god knows no one will ever cut it up! The blue blazer, of which I have many and this is one has been beat something awful through its life, showed some fusing. Full disect reveals that fusing is only used in the collar, no where else in the jacket body was any found. Fusing comes in many flavors, and some of it is not nearly as bad as we make out, but that will be another thread soon! I have spent a fair bit of time lurk near fusing ovens this year! Note the thin stitching near the red line, Zileri closed the pre made collar once cut to avoid it separating or the base machine made stitches coming un done. The kitons I saw being done were closed also. More care was giving to where the cut line would fall on the Kiton, sort of along the same idea as the pattern matching.

 

[lakewolf]

could you post a pic the label ?

Any the PZ interiors I have seen had black canvasing.

 

[Zegnamtl]

Originally Posted by lakewolf

could you post a pic the label ?

Any the PZ interiors I have seen had black canvasing.

I cut this jacket up a while back for a fusing text I am working on.
After discovering one of my Borrelli was fused, I wanted to learn as much as possible about what really is behind the fusing.

I'll see what else I have left, the jacket was an older model, as i recall, it just Said Pal Zileri, it was not the same style as the newer yellow labels.

i will get back to you tonight.

 

[lakewolf]

Originally Posted by Zegnamtl

I cut this jacket up a while back for a fusing text I am working on.
After discovering one of my Borrelli was fused, I wanted to learn as much as possible about what really is behind the fusing.

I'll see what else I have left, the jacket was an older model, as i recall, it just Said Pal Zileri, it was not the same style as the newer yellow labels.

i will get back to you tonight.

Yes, that is what I think too, older Pal Zileris ( let's say 7-8 years old ) look messy to me even in the exterior and finishing details compared to the newer collections, they have certainly improved over the time,inside and out, which is a good thing IMO.

 

[amerikajinda]

Nice pics! Highly informative...

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by lakewolf

Yes, that is what I think too, older Pal Zileris ( let's say 7-8 years old ) look messy to me even in the exterior and finishing details compared to the newer collections, they have certainly improved over the time,inside and out, which is a good thing IMO.
The conventional wisdom around here is that PZ was a lot better in the 90s than it is now. That is why it was dropped by all of its "good" accounts and is sort of relegated to discounters.

 

[lakewolf]

I'd like to see those PZ from the 90's anyhow my experience with PZ only goes back to the 2000's

Have anybody some PZ's of the 90's to see ?

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by lakewolf

I'd like to see those PZ from the 90's anyhow my experience with PZ only goes back to the 2000's

Have anybody some PZ's of the 90's to see ?
no, but it was nice stuff back then. i believe it was generally seen as a level above Canali and was carried at Wilkes Bashford and many other fine retailers. the newer stuff is seen as at least a rung below Canali, but that is the impression of other people as I haven't tried the stuff on in 15 years.

 

[Zegnamtl]

Originally Posted by lakewolf

Yes, that is what I think too, older Pal Zileris ( let's say 7-8 years old ) look messy to me even in the exterior and finishing details compared to the newer collections, they have certainly improved over the time,inside and out, which is a good thing IMO.
Not doubt they change, When I spent the afternoon at the samuelsohn factory, they showed me suits from years ago, and some recent. They have a new designer (about two years) and things have changed dramaticlly, not just in look, in production. Sammy is doing their best work in years at the moment. Oxxford is changing a fair bit, Scoot and Mike are shifting the company in a good way. All these shops are changing all the time. All the 6 or 7 factories I visited have said the same thing to me, they are always tweaking the process. Edit: I have no exp. with Zileri that far back, just the last 10 yrs or less.

 

[lakewolf]

Originally Posted by Zegnamtl

Not doubt they change, When I spent the afternoon at the samuelsohn factory, they showed me suits from years ago, and some recent. They have a new designer (about two years) and things have changed dramaticlly, not just in look, in production.

Exactly that is what I am talking about, I have a 7 years experience with PZ and certainly I didn't liked the models of 2000-2001, but the recent models are clearly superior, better design, construction, details and materials.

As Matt says it is very probable they were better in the 90's and then their quality lowered ( the ones I saw in 2000-2001 ) but now you can see improvement from year after year. I don't know if they have recovered or even outmade the 90's levels... I'd have to see a 90's suit to make me an opinion.