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P Johnson MTM

surefire1017

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If I'm not mistaken I think they offer mtm through Barney's as well.

The mtm debate is a tricky since I'm not sure how payment to the sales reps works. It is possible that they misled customers for commissions or additional margin.
I think it's likely the classic line was made in China and the Roma line is a question mark (as is the new claim that all is made in Italy).
 

AbsoluteStyle

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BnTailor via The Finery Company, Steve Calder, Trunk Tailors..

Apologies - I forgot Melbourne existed.

I have emailed Mr Porter and they are investigating. All the RTW on Mr Porter is Made in China but Mr Porter lists it as Made in Italy.

Mr Porter says their purchasing division will investigate and get back to me... I will post here once I receive an update.

The products were never made in Netherlands - they used a wholesaler / agent called Munro Tailors (http://munro-tailoring.com/) which is based in Amsterdam (capital of Netherlands)... but the manufacturing was in China. Munro later offered a product "finished" in Italy, which P Johnson took heavily advantage of... the price of $2.2K for a "hand made" suit in Italy says it all.

The issue is that P Johnson LIED to its customers.
 

theowbert

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What would you suggest? The market has definitely changed and the AUS MTM threads have not had much recent discussion.

Oscar hunt / MJ BALE (OTR only) / SuitSupply (opening next month in Sydney) - made in same factory as Suit Shop through a company called Munro tailoring

Crane Bros / Belance/ George and King / Institchu / Joe Button / Montagio - presumed to be of same or worse quality than the above

Zink / Cutler / Bijan / Leng / Canvas by Cutler - all above $5K for bespoke with $3.5K for MTM

Zimma - recently opened up its own factory in China... quality untested

I can tell you that for a fact that you've got some of the brands and their manufacturers mixed up.
 

AbsoluteStyle

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I can tell you that for a fact that you've got some of the brands and their manufacturers mixed up.

It would be great if you can support your statement with evidence? How do you know for a "fact"?

There is only one reputable facility in Shanghai that plays in the international wholesale suit market at such a scale. I've heard from numerous suppliers that they have seen the various brands rolling off the production lines there when they did site visits. If they aren't sourcing their products from this facility... then the quality is likely to be much WORSE.

I'm visiting Shanghai during CNY... hopefully can get a factory visit before they shut down for holidays so I can go check myself.
 

theowbert

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It would be great if you can support your statement with evidence? How do you know for a "fact"?

There is only one reputable facility in Shanghai that plays in the international wholesale suit market at such a scale. I've heard from numerous suppliers that they have seen the various brands rolling off the production lines there when they did site visits. If they aren't sourcing their products from this facility... then the quality is likely to be much WORSE.

I'm visiting Shanghai during CNY... hopefully can get a factory visit before they shut down for holidays so I can go check myself.

I currently work in the Australian menswear industry and I don't wish to reveal any information that may reveal who I am, or even which organisation I work for. So I don't feel obligated to reveal which organisations use which manufacturer as this may affect their business or even reputation. What each organisation chooses to do and how they go about doing it is their business. So all I will say is that knowing others in the industry and other organisations has provided me with insight with who they use as a manufacturer.

Much like you not revealing the name of which ex-PJ/SuitShop employee told you that Oscar Hunt uses the same contractor in another thread, I won't reveal my sources. I can only assume that your source is Wei given the circumstances.
 

sebastian mcfox

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Any thoughts/past experiences from Steve Calder's MTM suits? I heard he specialises in linen suits but was thinking to get some others material done.
Here’s one I had made in slate blue wool/mohair:

B35D5B01-D902-4175-84EF-0ACEFCCBD03C.jpeg
 

Journeyman

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Looks great! What's the benefit of getting a wool/mohair blend?

I've got a couple of suits in a wool/mohair blend. Depending on the weave, the fabric can have a bit of a sheen to it, which can be attractive in certain fabrics/colours. I had a silvery-grey suit in a mohair blend that looked really nice.

Also, mohair is (in my experience, at least) hard-wearing and so it should last you quite a while.

Finally, mohair is a bit stiffer than wool and so mohair suits tend to look a bit more structured. Unlike my wool trousers, I've never had to press my mohair trousers - ever - as the creases are still fine after years of wear and only the occasional dry-cleaning.
 

AbsoluteStyle

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I've got a couple of suits in a wool/mohair blend. Depending on the weave, the fabric can have a bit of a sheen to it, which can be attractive in certain fabrics/colours. I had a silvery-grey suit in a mohair blend that looked really nice.

Also, mohair is (in my experience, at least) hard-wearing and so it should last you quite a while.

Finally, mohair is a bit stiffer than wool and so mohair suits tend to look a bit more structured. Unlike my wool trousers, I've never had to press my mohair trousers - ever - as the creases are still fine after years of wear and only the occasional dry-cleaning.

Cheers mate. That's really helpful.

May I ask what fabric that is? I'm actually seeing Steve on Sunday to check out his shirts.
 

Journeyman

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