bdavro23
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- Mar 11, 2014
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To be fair Porter is a bigger guy. No suit is going to turn him into Michael Angelo's David.
That's even more worrying - a good suit should be flattering regardless of body size or type (sure, sure within limits). Is skin-tight really the way to go in this case? Surely something like this raises red flags for prospective customers?
This is something I had been worrying about myself also. I adore PJ and he was one of the guys that really influenced me when I first got into menswear and really got into the lightweight, soft, Italian style that I so dearly admire. However As I have grown in my experience and taste, I like things that fit, but not too tight nowadays. When I first started, I wanted everything tight and close fitting, to the point where it may even be uncomfortable bit. However, I enjoy roomier cut, especially in the legs. I like it slim but straight leg, an opening somewhere around 19-19.5cm. Along the lines with how the guys at The Armory where their pants (specifically Jake), high waist and all.Regarding the photos of Porter, that was taken during his early training as an apprentice. As with most of these matters, he was properly trying out the 6 x 2 DB and realized maybe that it wasn't for him.
I've visited him in Sydney a couple times over the past year, and the unstructured block he favors now is much more flattering and body shape appropriate.
As for the other various questions about whether PJ make a more robust cut, the short answer is yes. It'd probably be better to talk to someone with a bit more experience however, someone like Tom Riley who is incredibly observant and receptive to these things. Most of the apprentices are roughly my age, and as such in the vast majority err toward what somebody affectionately described on this thread as the 'wet suit' cut. If you're in Sydney, perhaps speak to Tom Cranston (one of the senior apprentices who alternates between Suitshop & PJ), he has a penchant for the less aggressively close more roomy proportions.
I'm very happy with my first commission from them (a blazer woven S130 number in mid-gray from Carlo Barbera) but I will be lugging it down to Sydney with me the next time I'm there for some alterations. Needs about 1cm standaway from the current buttoning point, because that fashionable 'pull' is on my flabby gut dreadful.
tl;dr - as long as you're firm and precise, they'll do you a less fashionable cut with no problemPJT customer service has always (in my experience) been prompt and accommodating, so this is something they will adjust.
Fun fact @Journeyman (though all evidence would suggest you're joking), a couple of the apprentices are a deadringer for Pat and do on occasion wear his so-called hand me downs. Definitely not Porter though, guy puts the 'barrel' in barrel chested.
Nicely done. I've looked at the PJ tumblr for a number of years and have always admired their approach to tailoring. The back looks nice, did they say the extra room would allow for better ventilation?
I was also looking to get some advice RE first time MTM suiting. I'm from Brisbane and am only in Sydney for a few days. I simply refuse to get anything done at Brisbane's The Cloakroom, as I've had numerous friends get items done (including members of the Reds) and the feedback has never been good. I have an appointment later this month at Suit Shop and I'm looking to get two suits done plus an extra pair of off-white trousers.