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Oxxford or Made-to-Measure with Lonsdail or Raphael

DrJimbo

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I currently live in New York and have usually had my suits made by Oxxford. I have asked several times when being fitted for suits at Oxxford if I need a completely custom fit or if made-to-order will suffice and have been assured that I do not need a completely custom fit.

With that said, while I love the quality of workmanship, their double-breasted style is a bit fuller than is always to my liking. As such I am exploring two other tailors in New York who have been recommended on this forum. I have had an appointment with Raphael and am scheduled to meet with Len Lonsdail after the new year. With respect to quality of workmanship are Raphael and Lonsdail the equal of Oxxford? I ask because I like Raphael's styles, but don't want to "trade-down" in quality in any way.
 

Mark Seitelman

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I have not purchased from Logsdail and Raphael. From the suits that I have seen on members and from members' testimony, they both make excellent and traditional handmade suits.

I think that the Raphael, Logsdail, and Oxxford coats would match-up on the amount of handwork both visible and in the interior. However, each maker's coat will have individual touches.

The Logsdail and Raphael suits would not have some of the Oxxford flourishes and signature touches. E.g., Oxxford's front buttonholes are double sided. Oxxford also has the interior bellows pockets. Oxxford also has a certain way of stitching the armholes, but I suspect that R and L have similar methods. However, Oxxford's one piece waistband is unique to Oxxford. I have not seen it duplicated. I would assume that these tailors do a traditional full skirt waistband.

I think that a bespoke suit from each one of these master tailors is worth experiencing at least once.

Good luck.
 

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