Overcoat coherence

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by RDiaz, Dec 1, 2012.

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  1. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I've been thinking about this lately. This is the first fall/winter season I'm wearing an overcoat when outside. I used to be much heavier so I tolerated cold better, and SC + scarf + gloves would suffice. Now it doesn't. So in all my topcoat n00bness, I got a dark navy wool/cashmere overcoat, which looks similar to this:

    [​IMG]


    I thought it would be quite versatile, but after wearing it with tweed or other odd jackets I think it looks weird - it seems the overcoat is on the "city" side of the spectrum, and what's underneath is on the "country" side.
    Am I being overly paranoid, or should I get a different overcoat (tweed, camel hair...) for my odd jackets? An overcoat is a quite expensive garment for my income level and I'd rather not get a new one if I can get away with the navy...
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


  2. Dewey

    Dewey Senior member

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    I don't think the city/country idea needs to be honored above all others. It's a way of looking at menswear but not the only way, and very few men understand or respect it much in 2012. In your question it sounds forced, like it's a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. How do the ladies smile on the navy? What are your friends and coworkers wearing over their jackets? etc. etc.
     


  3. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Nah, I just think it looks weird (probably because of over-application of acquired knowledge, as you say), but no one in my environment would say a thing. That includes no smiles from the ladies anyways [​IMG]

    However, as a beginner enthusiast of all this sartorial mumbo-jumbo, I try to dress as correctly (as per the city/country idea) as my money and current knowledge will allow, and it's in this context where the question arises. When I say "get away with the navy" I mean get away in a sartorial way.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


  4. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    Navy overcoat is perfectly fine in either the "city" or the "country." Wear it in good health, it will look great.

    And congrats on the weight loss.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I understand what you're saying. I advise others to get a shade of grey for a topcoat if you will wear it with casual clothes, sport coats or jeans and also suits. If you want a dressier coat to wear with suits and for evening use, get navy. If you have one topcoat for all purposes then get grey. Navy is too dressy for the casual things you wear.
    If all your suits are grey or navy, get a very dark brown. It goes with both. That's what I do, rotation of three brown coats. Have a very dark brown and black herringbone DB chesterfield. One in a dark shade of vicuna, color not vicuna cloth. A light, neutral oatmeal/taupe color.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


  6. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I currently have only one suit and it's navy, though I want to get a couple grey ones. I don't wear a suit all that often but I do from time to time, when I expect to meet personalities; which is why I got something I thought would be more versatile. But as you say, grey seems like it would have been a better choice. I can't afford to get many topcoats, at least for this season, but I think I may be able to grab another one, grey or brown, before fall is over. Could be a good excuse to get a double breasted, while I'm at it.

    If a lighter grey is OK, I think I would lean towards it, because cat fur would be less noticeable (I have two cats) and that's a plus; my navy topcoat has to be brushed constantly to get rid of it [​IMG]

    Thanks for the advice [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


  7. Peacoat

    Peacoat Senior member

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    If you have the funds, get a camel hair or dark grey tweed; otherwise, don't worry about it.

    On a practical note, protect your cashmere blend overcoat from moth damage. I had a very nice navy cashmere blend overcoat a number of years ago. Left it in an unprotected closet over the summer. When I pulled it out for wear the next fall, there was irreparable moth damage. I was so pissed, I swore I would never get another one. Well, I had to do something because it was cold, so eventually I got the same coat in charcoal. That way I maintained my honor but was able to stay warm at the same time.

    i have found the softer the wool, the more the moths like to nibble on it.
     


  8. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    That's heartbreaking.
     


  9. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    Navy anything is 'a beast' to keep free of debris when you have furry little beasts running around the house. Going for brown/gray wool tweed EVERYTHING is the only way to avoid the constant visual disruption of cat hair.

    However, I find the tweed undergarments to be quite scratchy and uncomfortable. Particularly in the summer. :nodding:

    In any case - I'll keep the furry little monstors (3) because they make me laugh.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


  10. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    Cats? I'll never understand cat people.
     


  11. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Cats are one of the main reasons most of my odd jackets are "country" - plaid or colour variation in the weave helps a lot [​IMG]
    I like them, and got them way before I used to wear tailored clothing. I'm not going to get rid of the beasts for such a reason!

    Peacoat, good point about moth protection [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


  12. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    I was one of you not so many years ago. Always had a dog(s). Never cats. Thought cats were just lame.

    Then I moved into a condo - left the dog with the ex - and eventually ended up with a pair of stray kittens. Their little brother came to us abandoned on a mountain hiking trail head.

    They are way cool pets - I promise.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I am fond of pigs. Dogs look up to us. Cats look down on us. Pigs treat us as equals.

    Winston Churchill
     


  14. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    I think that this is SPOT ON for OP. I probably wouldn't buy that for myself, but if I saw a guy wearing it, I wouldn't think twice.
     


  15. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Yup, but the question is if it is coherent (in a sartorial way) to wear a navy, quite "formal" overcoat with something like a tweed jacket and brown flannels, not if anyone would care... it's sort of a technical question, because I do care myself [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012


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