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Outfit for Tweed Jacket

Hairline

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I recently got my second bespoke tweed jacket. I never really knew how to build an outfit around them, so I've just worn them with dark jeans, a button down, and a tie.
I'd like to hear some ideas to build different outfits; especially what trousers would work with them. I've tried to pair them with khakis, but did not like the results. I like where men are pairing contrasting ties and pocket squares.
I do have some nice shoes and boots, but my shirts are very basic and my ties are from the 90's.
IMG_1292.jpg

Cheers
 

Hairline

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I had trouble finding a photo of me in the other jacket. I purchased them about ten years apart.
Happy to say they are the same size.
IMG_1965.jpg
 

adrianvo

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I recently got my second bespoke tweed jacket. I never really knew how to build an outfit around them, so I've just worn them with dark jeans, a button down, and a tie.
I'd like to hear some ideas to build different outfits; especially what trousers would work with them. I've tried to pair them with khakis, but did not like the results. I like where men are pairing contrasting ties and pocket squares.
I do have some nice shoes and boots, but my shirts are very basic and my ties are from the 90's.
View attachment 1612459
Cheers
Knitted ties and brown flannel trousers will be your friend with that jacket.

When matching patterns, try to have only one piece screaming for attention at a time (jacket in this case). Im a sucker for patterns-mixing myself, but I try to keep the rest of them subtle and not fighting for attention with the main piece.

Also, unbutton the bottom button. 👀
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I like the brown jacket better than the blue one.

For the brown jacket, I would

1. Only fasten the middle button. If you leave the top button unfastened, you may find that you get a longer and more flattering lapel line. The bottom-most button on your jacket should never be fastened, as it's not designed to be fastened.

2. Try wearing the brown tweed with a light blue shirt and grey wool flannel trousers. For shoes, try mid- to dark-brown leather shoes, such as derbies, chukkas, or penny loafers.

3. Use a pocket square. Something with a matte texture and that's not crisp white, but also not a solid color.
 

Phileas Fogg

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A range of gray flannels as well as cords and moleskin slacks.

otherwise I agree with some of the comments above.
 

bicycleradical

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I would also suggest not to wear a tie with jeans. An exception is a knit tie, perhaps however anything else will be incongruous.
 

Hairline

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I like the brown jacket better than the blue one.

For the brown jacket, I would

1. Only fasten the middle button. If you leave the top button unfastened, you may find that you get a longer and more flattering lapel line. The bottom-most button on your jacket should never be fastened, as it's not designed to be fastened.

2. Try wearing the brown tweed with a light blue shirt and grey wool flannel trousers. For shoes, try mid- to dark-brown leather shoes, such as derbies, chukkas, or penny loafers.

3. Use a pocket square. Something with a matte texture and that's not crisp white, but also not a solid color.
Thank you. I saw you post about the bottom button in another thread. I'll do that next time I wear it. I like the three button, but I think my next one will be a two button (for the reason you gave and to give room to show a tatersall waiscoat me thinks).
I have some brown double monk straps, some funky brown suede lace ups, and some beautiful Trickers boots.
I need to sort the grey flannel trousers. Do you recommend any online retailers? I'm living abroad and Covid has limited my shopping options.
Cheers
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Thank you. I saw you post about the bottom button in another thread. I'll do that next time I wear it. I like the three button, but I think my next one will be a two button (for the reason you gave and to give room to show a tatersall waiscoat me thinks).
I have some brown double monk straps, some funky brown suede lace ups, and some beautiful Trickers boots.
I need to sort the grey flannel trousers. Do you recommend any online retailers? I'm living abroad and Covid has limited my shopping options.
Cheers
Unfortunately, I don't know the overseas market that well. But if you already get your sport coats custom-made, I imagine you can get trousers from the same tailor.

For a small or starting wardrobe, I think grey flannel is the most versatile. Something in one of these shades.

tumblr_inline_pjqwwfWMhX1qfex1b_540.jpg




Avoid charcoal, as those will be too dark to wear with most jackets.

The problem with flannel is that it's prone to bagging and it's not as durable as other fabrics. Worsted flannel is more durable than woolen flannel, if marginal improvements are important to you. But worsted flannel doesn't have the same cloudiness or nap as woolen. (FWIW, I prefer worsted in the spring and woolen in the fall/ winter). Worsted can also come in lighter weights.

You may find that grey flannel trousers will go with your other jackets, such as hopsack navy sport coats (if you already have one). Grey flannel is quite versatile.

Personally, for tweed, however, I mostly wear cavalry twill and whipcord. Both are variants on twill and wear much harder than flannel. They also drape better and don't bag as easily.

I like both in tan. Cavalry twill here:

tumblr_inline_pjp6klAhdy1qfex1b_540.jpg



Whipcord here:

tumblr_inline_pjp6kqsrka1qfex1b_540.jpg



The two together:

tumblr_inline_pjp6km1ioo1qfex1b_540.jpg
tumblr_inline_pjp6kxBiHa1qfex1b_540.jpg




Both have a rustic quality that complements tweed quite well. But they are hard to find in flattering cuts off the rack. Shops such as Cordings might carry them. I find it's easier and better to just go through a custom tailor. If you do, you can find these cloths in Holland & Sherry's Dakota book.


You may find some good inspiration on how to wear your tweed at Voxsartoria's site. He has a lot of good photos of well-dressed men in previous eras. Check the tag "tweed." Your outfit doesn't have to mirror those historical photos, but the historical photos can inform your choices today as you create a coherent, classic outfit.

 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Some photos that might give you some ideas on how wear that brown tweed.


The pattern on your jacket isn't too far off from this one (relatively speaking, anyway). I know you said you don't like it with khakis, but here's an outfit that I think works well. Tan khakis can come in many shades and hues. Some have a very deep, almost yellow, warm undertone that can make them difficult to pair with cold brown jackets. Here's a neutral tan with a brown jacket, striped blue shirt, and dark brown tie


135247598_117132093589540_569736194443901214_n.jpg




This photo is a bit more stylized than I'd like (it's from a fashion brand's ad campaign). But it may give you some ideas. Here's a brown tweed with grey flannel trousers, a light blue striped shirt, and a navy wool tie. The wool tie is nice in that it complements the texture and seasonality of the jacket. But if you get a very classic tie, it can be worn in the same way (I would maybe update your wardrobe with a navy grenadine or a very basic, striped tie. Something you can wear across more outfits).

tumblr_inline_p1a0fcXWHf1qfex1b_540.jpg




These are the types of stripes I'm talking about. Something simpler and more basic.

tumblr_inline_p9gpaudEd81qfex1b_540.jpg
tumblr_inline_p9gpavkSAQ1qfex1b_540.jpg
tumblr_inline_p9gpautTdg1qfex1b_540.jpg




I believe these pants are tan cavalry twills. I think you could swap your jacket for the same outfit here


bespoke-anderson-and-sheppard-savile-row.jpeg




A company called Drake's is about to start their online archive sale. I think it should be up in the next 24 hours. You can see a preview here:



Included will be some $40 pocket squares. I think they make very nice designs.
 

TheIronDandy

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I will second the recommendation @dieworkwear made for cavalry twill. I find it one of the most flexible fabrics out there - while it has a somewhat rustic vibe, it also drapes well, holds a crease and it's durable without being too warm, so it's a fairly good all-around choice. Grey flannel is nice, but it wears out quickly.
 

Phileas Fogg

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One of the things I miss about the demise of Barney’s was the large selection of ties and pocket squares from Drake’s.
 

BPL Esq

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@dieworkwear, I believe I've seen you suggest cavalry twill trousers a few other times as well. Who are good makers to source these from? I believe I saw some available from O'Connell's, but another one or two options would be appreciated.
 

ValidusLA

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I love cavalry twill. Huddersfield has some that I like if you can go CMT, though they don't have a cream/tan color last I checked. The stone color is quite nice.
 

dieworkwear

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@dieworkwear, I believe I've seen you suggest cavalry twill trousers a few other times as well. Who are good makers to source these from? I believe I saw some available from O'Connell's, but another one or two options would be appreciated.
There's O'Connell's, possibly Cordings, and then some Rota selections at The Armoury and No Man Walks Alone.

The Rotas seem to fit nicely, from what I've seen online. I don't know how O'Connell's or Cordings pants fit. I have some O'Connell's sweaters and like the fit, and I remember buying an OCBD from them many years ago and was surprised to find it's reasonably trim, despite the company's trad positioning. I imagine their pants are somewhat full, but I don't know.

FWIW, cav twill has a double rib like this. It's a twill within a twill.


ETkWw4vUMAArq7Z.jpeg




I think some people associate it with "old man pants." I like the material, but it is somewhat old-fashioned because it comes from an era where tailored clothing wasn't all just four-season wools. So it's associated with an older generation.

Whipcord has a tougher, mottled twill like this

ETkW5UtU8AAG31d.jpeg



The effect is something that has a bit more depth in color. I think it looks slightly "younger," maybe because I think it's something like a tailored counterpart to denim. It won't fade like denim, of course. But it has that slight variation in color, single twill, and sporty/ casual look.

Brooks Brothers used to sell whipcord trousers a few years ago, but I don't know if they still do.

For some reason, these two fabrics are commonly mislabeled online, but you can always tell what is what by seeing the twill. Cav twill has a double rib; whipcord has a single rib.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I have no idea if these are good or not. But they're £85 and located abroad. Maybe the OP will find these links useful.



 

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