OTR suit jacket fit

[B|aze]

Originally Posted by jeff13007

Button stance a bit high for my taste it kinda looks like a 3 button suit with the bottom button removed, it dosent look too tight to me in the chest area, a bit but nothing to worry about. But the jacket is a bit short dosent look like you can cuff the bottom with your hand if they are hanging straight. Needs a little work but still better than like 90% of the people out there now a days. Yes you can make the sleeves longer if there is fabric there but if you have faux button holes it may make it look weird.

Fair enough with the button stance, I don't mind it though.
Well like you point out, I always heard you should be able to just touch the the bottom of the sleeve with you fingers when you curl them up. But how much are we talking about. Cause I can touch them with my fingertips.
I just worry that a 42L would make them too long perhaps.
I'm not sure what you mean by Faux button holes. But they are not working buttons on the sleeves.

 

[lee_44106]

Originally Posted by greekgeek

That button is liable to put someone's eye out...

Seriously, if you look at the frontal shot you can see how the jacket is pulling at the button and severely deforming the fabric covering the chest.

Originally Posted by B|aze

I can see that on the picture. But keep in mind that the picture is taken from a low angle and the flash generates shadows.
I can easily pull the front out 4-5 inches, where the button is, and I'm telling you, it isn't tight at all. Maybe its' the way the fabric falls?

jacket "pulls" because the button stance, for him, is too high. Therefore pulling the jacket quarters forward and crossing them a bit, creating the illusion of tightness.

 

[jeff13007]

Faux button holes means button holes on the sleeves that are not surgeon cuffs meaning working sleeve buttons. As for the jacket length if you go by tradition you should be able to curl your fingers with your arms straight. But personally i think the jacket fine length wise for your body type. Besides most of the coats nowadays tend to run a bit short. Dunno if switching to a L would solve the button stance problem though might need a different model. I mean it works if you are trying to elongate your body but that short jacket kinda defeats that. Again this is personal tastes, so if you are happy with your suit you should wear it with pride!

 

[lee_44106]

Originally Posted by jeff13007

Button stance a bit high for my taste it kinda looks like a 3 button suit with the bottom button removed, it dosent look too tight to me in the chest area, a bit but nothing to worry about. But the jacket is a bit short dosent look like you can cuff the bottom with your hand if they are hanging straight. Needs a little work but still better than like 90% of the people out there now a days. Yes you can make the sleeves longer if there is fabric there but if you have faux button holes it may make it look weird.

faux buttonholes are just stitches placed to look as if there is a buttonhole. If he's able to lengthen the sleeves (provided there is enough fabric to do so), there is no reason why these stitiches can't be taken out and redone to balance out the look.

 

[lee_44106]

OP definitely need to go to a LONG.

This current FASHION trend of short jackets will die, soon.

 

[Ich_Dien]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

OP definitely need to go to a LONG.


+1

 

[B|aze]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

OP definitely need to go to a LONG.

This current FASHION trend of short jackets will die, soon.

Originally Posted by Ich_Dien

+1

Considering that this is a 41R, you think a 42L would lower the buttonstance aswell or would it be pretty much the same?
It seem to be that the lenght of the jacket should be so long that it just covers your a$$. But I mean doesn't this jacket do just that or is it me that is looking at i wrong.
Would the Long not make it seem too long?

Not deffending here, just trying to learn.

 

[literasyme]

I agree that the body of the jacket looks a tiny bit short -- I strongly dislike the hand-curl method of assessing length, but it looks like it might not cover your bottom fully, and that's a no-no. The sleeves are a touch short, but can probably be let out.

The real issue, however, is that the cut doesn't fit you -- it's not that it's unflattering, butt hat it does not fall the way it's meant to on your body. Sure, you can wear it, but the fact that you've posted here presumably means that you'd like some technical feedback, and what others have said seems correct to me: the button stance is too high for your body shape, which makes the lapels buckle and pulls the quarters closer than they ought to be. It just doesn't look right -- it looks like you're wearing a coat made for someone else's body.

 

[B|aze]

Originally Posted by literasyme

I agree that the body of the jacket looks a tiny bit short -- I strongly dislike the hand-curl method of assessing length, but it looks like it might not cover your bottom fully, and that's a no-no. The sleeves are a touch short, but can probably be let out.

The real issue, however, is that the cut doesn't fit you -- it's not that it's unflattering, butt hat it does not fall the way it's meant to on your body. Sure, you can wear it, but the fact that you've posted here presumably means that you'd like some technical feedback, and what others have said seems correct to me: the button stance is too high for your body shape, which makes the lapels buckle and pulls the quarters closer than they ought to be. It just doesn't look right -- it looks like you're wearing a coat made for someone else's body.

Thanks for that input. Maybe you're right about the cut. If that's the case it's really anoying. Since I find the quality of TM Lewin to be pretty good, considering the cost. And they only seem to have 2 buttong and 3 button models in different length and sizes.
The problem is that I'm trying to find a cheaper alternativ to buying suit here in denmark since the only thing you can buy are Hugo Boss and Tommy Hilfiger and even lower end brands you never heard...and some danish brand like Sand.
All those suits cost at least $850 pr. suit. And I don't think that they are worth that much.
But it's diffucult finding online suits within the EU

 

[jeff13007]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

faux buttonholes are just stitches placed to look as if there is a buttonhole. If he's able to lengthen the sleeves (provided there is enough fabric to do so), there is no reason why these stitiches can't be taken out and redone to balance out the look.

ok i stand corrected. i always thought the sleeve was already cut and not just the stitches IE the buttons were sewed into the other end of the sleeve. $850 is alot actually. I picked up brioni navy pinstripe at century 21 during their February sale last year for about that price!

 

[B|aze]

Originally Posted by jeff13007

ok i stand corrected. i always thought the sleeve was already cut and not just the stitches IE the buttons were sewed into the other end of the sleeve. $850 is alot actually. I picked up brioni navy pinstripe at century 21 during their February sale last year for about that price!
Yep...without putting my head on the block, I would say that Denmark is probably one of the most expensive places to buy clothes in the world.
So that's why I'm trying to find a another place to other them.

On another note.
Would a 3 button just make it worse or could it actually be better...regarding the button stance?

 

[bowtielover]

Great fit.

 

[furo]

• There is a pronounced shoulder divot in the second photo that's not in the third, so not sure what's going on there; my suspicion is a shoulder that might be too small
  
• The back needs to be cleaned up, the rippling isn't just going horizontal near the collar, it's also seen vertically near the shoulder blades, which indicates a fit problem
  
• The collar needs to be adjusted to help fix those rippling back issues
  
• The button stance seems high, but that might be the angle of the last photo
  
• Definitely get a longer jacket, I don't see how this is covering your bottom at all
  
• It looks like the lapels are buckling in the chest, causing a poor collar fit around the neck; if you look closely you can actually see some gaping around the neck (distance between shirt collar and suit collar)
  
• Sleeve length seems fine to me and Flusser recommends a 1/2" to a full 1" of cuff to be shown IIRC