Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tumadre, Aug 12, 2011.
^ Thanks Trompe, i like what i see
ahhh but custom fees
Try Ascot Chang RTW
For a new starter, what is it that is so perfect about the collar in that first shot? Just that the collar meets/goes under the lapel?
"Collar gap" has absolutely nothing to do with the shirt collar.
what is it that youlike about ths collar?
how the tips of the collar hit just under the edge of the lapels?
the point length will be a problem as most rtw shirts are showing shorter lengths
how the collar almost meets at the top above the tie?
the tie space is due to a well fitting collar and tight tie knot
[/I]or the very light lining in the collar/no stay that makes the collar look so soft
so much can go wrong in the laundry process with such a lightweight collar.c
commercial laindries will make a mess of this type of collar.
I don't know if it has nothing to do with the collar, a short pointed collar (a la recent Boss and D&G offerings) will guarantee a gap, but I does have a lot to do with how the jacket fits as well.
I'm thinking that collar gap is what happens behind the shirt, when the jacket lifts away from the collar. When it doesn't occur, its a sign of a well made jacket, likely bespoke.
You must mean when the collar points don't reach the jacket.
Get your Ass on a Plane to HK and have some Shirts made at Ascot Chang, (or another of the many skilled Artisans).
This will still, on a per unit basis - be significantly cheaper than some of the 'extortionate' prices being requested for Kiton etc on the B&S.
I started at about $70 for some 'Beater's' and maxed out at about $220 for some in really nice fabrics, (working with two different Tailors).
As many have said, (and i an Infant in the world of Bespoke) only having a dozen or so Shirts and three pair of Trousers commissioned - there is an element of trial, error and patience required to achieve your desired result.
Alternatively order a few from the likes of Lance at VCH or Ian at STF and work out which brand for works best for you. As Spoo (or somebody else) mentioned earlier, look at Barba, Finamore and the older Borrelli's. Just my 2 cents worth.
I seriously don't understand what you all are trying to say. What PG calls "collar gap" is the result of a poorly fitted jacket collar. Whoever thinks a shirt (collar) has anything to do with it knows as much about clothing as I do about building houses.
Some peole are confusing collar gap with collar point length
i meant collar point, oops
In this thread when people are referring to collar gap they mean the gap between the collar points and the jacket. The fit of the jacket can influence this but in most cases it's the design of the shirt. Surely you don't believe this collar gap would be rectified by a better fitting jacket?
Some people refer to collar gap as the gap between the jacket and the neck but given the picture in the beginning of this thread and most other responses its pretty clear what the OP is talking about.
This is simply a shirt with too short collar points and has nothing to do with a gaping collar.
- CORRECTION = Your aim in life as a SF member is to get as much made for you & not rely on batch variation from OTR makers.
- in the long term, items made for you will return in spades compared to all the OTR you buy at discount hoping to get a good fit.
- as EarthDragon mentioned, a Ascot Chan or any bespoke (even MTM) will be on average less than the 1st or 2nd tier branded shirts out there.
Separate names with a comma.