OTR Collar like Phat Guido's

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tumadre, Aug 12, 2011.

  1. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Senior member

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    boggi milano
     


  2. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    ^ Thanks Trompe, i like what i see

    ahhh but custom fees :crazy:
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2011


  3. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Try Ascot Chang RTW
     


  4. Gassyndrome

    Gassyndrome Well-Known Member

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    For a new starter, what is it that is so perfect about the collar in that first shot? Just that the collar meets/goes under the lapel?
     


  5. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    "Collar gap" has absolutely nothing to do with the shirt collar.
     


  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    what is it that youlike about ths collar?
    how the tips of the collar hit just under the edge of the lapels?
    the point length will be a problem as most rtw shirts are showing shorter lengths

    how the collar almost meets at the top above the tie?
    the tie space is due to a well fitting collar and tight tie knot

    [/I]or the very light lining in the collar/no stay that makes the collar look so soft
    so much can go wrong in the laundry process with such a lightweight collar.c
    commercial laindries will make a mess of this type of collar.
     


  7. Recoil

    Recoil Senior member

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    I don't know if it has nothing to do with the collar, a short pointed collar (a la recent Boss and D&G offerings) will guarantee a gap, but I does have a lot to do with how the jacket fits as well.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  8. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    I'm thinking that collar gap is what happens behind the shirt, when the jacket lifts away from the collar. When it doesn't occur, its a sign of a well made jacket, likely bespoke.

    You must mean when the collar points don't reach the jacket.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  9. earthdragon

    earthdragon Senior member

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    Get your Ass on a Plane to HK and have some Shirts made at Ascot Chang, (or another of the many skilled Artisans).
    This will still, on a per unit basis - be significantly cheaper than some of the 'extortionate' prices being requested for Kiton etc on the B&S.
    I started at about $70 for some 'Beater's' and maxed out at about $220 for some in really nice fabrics, (working with two different Tailors).
    As many have said, (and i an Infant in the world of Bespoke) only having a dozen or so Shirts and three pair of Trousers commissioned - there is an element of trial, error and patience required to achieve your desired result.
    Alternatively order a few from the likes of Lance at VCH or Ian at STF and work out which brand for works best for you. As Spoo (or somebody else) mentioned earlier, look at Barba, Finamore and the older Borrelli's. Just my 2 cents worth.
    Good Luck
     


  10. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    I seriously don't understand what you all are trying to say. What PG calls "collar gap" is the result of a poorly fitted jacket collar. Whoever thinks a shirt (collar) has anything to do with it knows as much about clothing as I do about building houses.
     


  11. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    Some peole are confusing collar gap with collar point length
     


  12. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    i meant collar point, oops
     


  13. Recoil

    Recoil Senior member

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    In this thread when people are referring to collar gap they mean the gap between the collar points and the jacket. The fit of the jacket can influence this but in most cases it's the design of the shirt. Surely you don't believe this collar gap would be rectified by a better fitting jacket?

    [​IMG]

    Some people refer to collar gap as the gap between the jacket and the neck but given the picture in the beginning of this thread and most other responses its pretty clear what the OP is talking about.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011


  14. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    This is simply a shirt with too short collar points and has nothing to do with a gaping collar.
     


  15. GuidoWongolini

    GuidoWongolini Senior member

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    Terminal A? 1?
    
    - CORRECTION = Your aim in life as a SF member is to get as much made for you & not rely on batch variation from OTR makers.
    - in the long term, items made for you will return in spades compared to all the OTR you buy at discount hoping to get a good fit.
    - as EarthDragon mentioned, a Ascot Chan or any bespoke (even MTM) will be on average less than the 1st or 2nd tier branded shirts out there.
     


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