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OTR brands for real "straight leg" dress trousers?

razl

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Armani Collezioni is the only line I've found that makes a lot of straight leg trousers. Unfortunately they are expensive and, a lot of times, in non-standard "tech" type fabrics (poly, etc.) Most other brands, even the ones that advertise as "straight leg", still taper (and some taper a lot).

Since straight leg is obviously subjective, how about this - a 9" hem line. From my experience, most 8.25 or less are skinny or tapered a lot, 8.25 to 9 are tapered some to more. 9" seems to be about where it needs to be to be straight.

And, no, I'm not looking for wide legged (which is probably 9.5 and more). Any suggestions?
 

bourbonbasted

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I've had good luck with Ems of Mason's. You can generally grab them from Bloomingdales for like $70-$100 during sales.
 

razl

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Epaulet? Howard Yount?

I've never seen Howard Yount pants listed as anything other than "slim fit", which is a shame because I love some of their materials.

I didn't know about Epaulet but after having just looked at their site every pair of trousers is listed as slim or tapered. Which again is a shame, because they have some fantastic fabrics (like that decadent light gray flannel with pow check, nice!)
 

razl

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I've had good luck with Ems of Mason's. You can generally grab them from Bloomingdales for like $70-$100 during sales.

I should have stated I was looking for dress pants. Everything I've seen from Masons are casual (khakis, cargos, etc.). Or do they have a dress line that I'm missing? That said, thanks for the tip - I'll keep them in mind for casual stuff.
 

bourbonbasted

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Ah my bad. Didn't know. You are correct. The only Mason's I own are chinos.

If it's dress pants you're after then why don't you just buy odd suit pants and have them tailored to your liking? This is what I do with all my flannels. It's generally cheaper to taper/slim dress pants than it is chinos or jeans. My guy will do $20 for both legs on dress pants with a single seam.
 

razl

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Ah my bad. Didn't know. You are correct. The only Mason's I own are chinos.
If it's dress pants you're after then why don't you just buy odd suit pants and have them tailored to your liking? This is what I do with all my flannels. It's generally cheaper to taper/slim dress pants than it is chinos or jeans. My guy will do $20 for both legs on dress pants with a single seam.

But I'm actually looking for straight leg, non-tapered trousers. I wish it was as easy to get a bunch of tapered stuff and un-taper it, but unfortunately - while pant waists are generally built to add-toor subtract-from, legs don't ship with extra fabric to let the taper out (unless you know something I don't?)
 

bourbonbasted

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I bought a few pairs of PRL and RLPL flannels and odd pants off of ebay. They both had a more full cut to them. I was careful to buy pants with a full cut. These pants were cut with a very relaxed, almost flared leg (think the baggy, shinny pants you see old men wearing on the gold course).

Then, when I go to get my pants slimmed I instruct the tailor to slim starting from the pocket. This ensures a straight leg. It's when a tailor tapers from the knee or even mid thigh that you get a pronounced tapered look. The dreaded "carrot" cut.

If you simply ask a tailor for a uniformed opening/width throughout (true straight leg) then he will taper until the widest point and line the rest of the leg up with that opening. If that's 9" at the thigh, then the whole leg will measure 9" wide all the way down.
 

razl

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Ahhh, OK - I hadn't thought of that - taking wide legs down to a straight leg, good idea. Again, that's mostly for casual since I can't imagine flared or bootcut dress pants being any more prevalent than my already hard to find straight legs, but I will keep it in mind if the opportunity presents..
 

phoenixrecon

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straight leg means that it tapers until the knee, then is straight down... please explain what your looking for?

are you looking for no taper from the thigh? that would be a relaxed fit.
 

razl

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straight leg means that it tapers until the knee, then is straight down.

That hasn't been my experience, most tapers I've come across taper from thigh to knee and then more from knee to hem. For example, take these great Howard Yount trousers:



The first fold down from the waist is about knee height (or lower) but clearly the next fold is narrower and the hem is narrower still (although it looks like from about calf down it's straight).

I'm trying to get more like this (only for visual comparison, not these actual pants) which you can see really are straight from top to bottom:



That might actually be a bit ridiculous in being so absolutely straight, a hint of taper on that would be fine.

Does that help clarify?
 
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Viral

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Hugo Boss makes a cut called "James Brown".......these typically have a 8.5 - 9" leg opening in a sz 34.

OP..............What sz are you?
 

razl

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Hugo Boss makes a cut called "James Brown".......these typically have a 8.5 - 9" leg opening in a sz 34.
OP..............What sz are you?

Thanks for the tip, I actually discovered the "James Brown" model (shudder - I've got nothing against JB per se, but the model name is off putting) but, like most Hugo Boss stuff, the rise was just too short for me. But you're right about the shape, I'd just forgotten about them because I never purchased any.

Note that I'm a 33w and 34L and @ 6'3", I tend to need a medium rise at a minimum.
 

Viral

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Thanks for the tip, I actually discovered the "James Brown" model (shudder - I've got nothing against JB per se, but the model name is off putting) but, like most Hugo Boss stuff, the rise was just too short for me. But you're right about the shape, I'd just forgotten about them because I never purchased any.
Note that I'm a 33w and 34L and @ 6'3", I tend to need a medium rise at a minimum.

interesting...........these are probably the most classic-fitting pants (rise, leg, taper, etc.) one can buy.

The only only other pants I can think of are the Corneliani Elite........they have a 12.5" rise in sz 32, too high IMO.
 

jrd617

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Corneliani-made PRL Preston's are fuller cut flat fronts. ~9 inch opening on the 32's, 11.5 inch rise. I prefer the Bradford cut.
 
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