Oswald Boateng not a Good ol' boy

[korinkahn]

Enough of the Boateng Bashing, I do not understand why people are saying that he is not a true tailor, why the disrespect? What is everyones take on Boateng.

 

[whoopee]

Is he a true tailor or cutter? I'd always assumed not but a recent news article implied otherwise.

Anyway his clothing isn't to my taste but it doesn't offend me.

 

[Get Smart]

I'm probably one of the few who like Boateng on this forum. I have 2 of his suits (one from the "bespoke couture" (upper) line and one from the "saville row" (lower level) line). I can understand why most here wouldnt like his cuts. They arent business appropriate for the most part, with the high buttoning stance, very thin lapels, flamboyant fabrics. Jackets have nice waist supression tho, which seems to be a feature that many here prefer.

But anything from his diffusion line (OZ) I would stay away from, as the cuts and fabrics are nothing noteworthy and obviously the construction quality is much lower.

 

[Flame]

Frankly I always though of Ozwald as more of a couturier than a true tailor, and I can see why the majority here dislikes him. I am actually quite enamoured of his Givenchy line, and I like what he does with more casual clothes.

 

[whoopee]

I like his sweaters. "Happy colours"

 

[Morris]

Originally Posted by Flame

Frankly I always though of Ozwald as more of a couturier than a true tailor

I agree with this point ... Ozwald is more fashion influenced in his lines and cuts as opposed to the traditional SR tailor. This fora (and AAAC) tend to gravitate toward the latter.

 

[GBR]

Boateng's fundamental problem is that he cannot make up his mind whether he is someone who lends ideas and his names to overpriced RTW clothing or else a bespoke tailor of repute.

The upshot is a confused mix of overpriced rags destroying the reputation which otherwise he might have.

However his businesses have a chequered history so it is perhaps understandable that he grabs what he can.

 

[Patrick Bateman]

Originally Posted by GBR

Boateng's fundamental problem is that he cannot make up his mind whether he is someone who lends ideas and his names to overpriced RTW clothing or else a bespoke tailor of repute.

You have to admit that many of the old-line Savile Row houses have been copying him in this regard, though. In particular - Gieves.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by Patrick Bateman

You have to admit that many of the old-line Savile Row houses have been copying him in this regard, though. In particular - Gieves.


He has ideas which are worthy I would readily admit but one demands some exclusivity in the use of the name. You cannot really be RTW and bespoke.

 

[Get Smart]

Originally Posted by GBR

You cannot really be RTW and bespoke.


don't many, if not most, of the Row houses offer both nowadays?

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by Get Smart

don't many, if not most, of the Row houses offer both nowadays?


The odd one may do but the traditional houses surely just offer MTM at an obvious entry point and full bespoke. Their loweer end offerings cannot by bought in chain stores as can Boatengs.

 

[SGladwell]

Originally Posted by GBR

The odd one may do but the traditional houses surely just offer MTM at an obvious entry point and full bespoke. Their loweer end offerings cannot by bought in chain stores as can Boatengs.

Gieves and Hawkes has long had a crappy fused RTW line. I believe Kilgour did at one point, too. Even Huntsman put their name on RTW, though I suspect it was better than the G&H offering. Anderson and Sheppard, I'm not sure but I wouldn't doubt it. The smaller houses, probably not.

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by SGladwell

Gieves and Hawkes has long had a crappy fused RTW line. I believe Kilgour did at one point, too. Even Huntsman put their name on RTW, though I suspect it was better than the G&H offering. Anderson and Sheppard, I'm not sure but I wouldn't doubt it. The smaller houses, probably not.

The Huntsman RTW did not impress me. Of course, I expect quite a bit from Huntsman, so disappointment was likely.

 

[berlin report]

Originally Posted by GBR

He has ideas which are worthy I would readily admit but one demands some exclusivity in the use of the name. You cannot really be RTW and bespoke.

What about the couture houses who have RTW lines? This, apart from cosmetics, is what keeps those old houses from crumbling to the ground. Sure you should protect the traditions of the past but you should also face, if not embrace, the reality of the present if only to insure the future.

 

[LabelKing]

Originally Posted by berlin report

What about the couture houses who have RTW lines? This, apart from cosmetics, is what keeps those old houses from crumbling to the ground. Sure you should protect the traditions of the past but you should also face, if not embrace, the reality of the present if only to insure the future.
The French Academie initially banned those couturiers who had dared offer RTW back in the '60s.

Of course, there are still some very small ateliers who seem to only subsist on couture and RTW you can't even find such as Torrente.