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Orslow

Mavidpark

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105 is pretty safe for us with bigger thighs. I can’t fit my thigs in any of the Levi’s vintage collection 501s for example.



About the roping. Not all chainstitch machines create roping. There must be diffenrence in the feeding speed of the bottom feed dog and top sewing foot and that causes the fabric to twist and wrinkle. End result we are so interested in is basically a flaw in the sewing machines. This flaw has been corrected in modern chainstitch machines and these machines mostly sew perfectly flat seams. Best roping in my denim collection is by Union Special 43200G. Luckily the place I use for hemming just bought their own 43200G.
Thanks for the reply! The jeans I purchased weren't from the vintage collection but their cheaper standard 501 selvedge line.

I found some used 105 for a very good price, but concerned due to all the varying size charts for orslow on the major denim sites (standard & strange, blueowl, canoeclub, etc. So hard for me to gauge whether the thigh would fit without an actual photo of the measurement.

As for the chainstich info, this is very helpful and honestly gives me alot of excitement for denim. I've avoided expensive lightwash denim for years out of the fear of getting the "flat" clean hem look you described. Did not know roping could be revived after hem as long a proper chain stitch is performed.

I am now considering the drakes options as well as I am hearing that the top block is much more forgiving. Was always concerned because of the longer lengths and need to hem. But may look for a good deal and send to a proper tailor.
 

Mavidpark

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also forgive me for the rookie question. But this is what the seller sent me of his orslow 105 2 year wash. These were hemmed down 3 inches. Does this hem look proper?
IMG_6370 (1).PNG
 

htinlinn

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If, by proper, you mean chain stitch hemming, then, no. It doesn’t look like chain stitch hem.
 

SilentPartner

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Adding to the questions about 107s and thighs... Do they stretch much at all? Just wondering because I have a new pair that fits great everywhere except the thighs which are pretty snug. I assumed they'd probably shift a half inch but if that's not true then I should probably cut my losses and move them on.
 

Mavidpark

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Adding to the questions about 107s and thighs... Do they stretch much at all? Just wondering because I have a new pair that fits great everywhere except the thighs which are pretty snug. I assumed they'd probably shift a half inch but if that's not true then I should probably cut my losses and move them on.
this is my exact fear. Been pining for a pair of 105s, but the thigh area seems tight based on the measurements I'm seeing online. I might have to pivot again :(
 

Ash206

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this is my exact fear. Been pining for a pair of 105s, but the thigh area seems tight based on the measurements I'm seeing online. I might have to pivot again :(
I tried one on at Glass Wing in Seattle and it felt quite tight all around but the folks assured they slightly stretch. I’m quite happy now after a few days of wear and a wash.
 

shopcanoeclub

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If, by proper, you mean chain stitch hemming, then, no. It doesn’t look like chain stitch hem.
idk it actually does to me (i hem all denim at canoe club) - just looks like whoever hemmed them had super tight tension/stitch length. you can kinda see the texture on the overlap (which is done well/evenly, especially good it being on the outseam)
 

trudeljb

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Apologies if this isn't the correct forum, and please direct me to where the best place is but wondering if anyone can help with a legit check on a pair of New Yorkers in Khaki on Grailed? I'm keen to grab a pair and seems like all of the Size 0's (whenever co's have sale's) are immediately sold out. The Khaki color in the photos seems more grey but I found a few photos on Blue Owl that seem to be a close match.

 

sussi

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105 is pretty safe for us with bigger thighs. I can’t fit my thigs in any of the Levi’s vintage collection 501s for example.



About the roping. Not all chainstitch machines create roping. There must be diffenrence in the feeding speed of the bottom feed dog and top sewing foot and that causes the fabric to twist and wrinkle. End result we are so interested in is basically a flaw in the sewing machines. This flaw has been corrected in modern chainstitch machines and these machines mostly sew perfectly flat seams. Best roping in my denim collection is by Union Special 43200G. Luckily the place I use for hemming just bought their own 43200G.
I can't fit my thighs in 105... 101 should be fine for me but I haven't tried them yet.
 

henrip

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Thought I got problematic thighs 🙈. @sussi I recall you bought white 105s some time ago but is my memory playing tricks or have you hitted the gym (leg days) harder lately 💪?
 

sussi

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Thought I got problematic thighs 🙈. @sussi I recall you bought white 105s some time ago but is my memory playing tricks or have you hitted the gym (leg days) harder lately 💪?
I got white 105 and they were slim in thighs but 2 years and no wash 105 in the same size were too tight. I have also sold white 105 cause I prefer looser fit.
 

jischwar

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I got white 105 and they were slim in thighs but 2 years and no wash 105 in the same size were too tight. I have also sold white 105 cause I prefer looser fit.
Get you some 101's, they'll be perfect
 

leephil

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I'm interested in 101s in one wash but curious about length. Would be good if they're shorter than 105s as I need to hem off about 2 inches in my appropriate waist size (for 105s)
 

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