Opinions Wanted! Multple Suit/Coat Fit Check

[Rugger]

(I know there is a fit/tailoring check thread, but I didn't want to clog it up with 30 pictures. So please accept my apologies for creating a separate thread.)



I went out on a limb an ordered a bunch of Spier & Mackay, as well as two SuSu Havana suits. I have previously owned SuitSupply Siennas and had tried on the Havana in store so I was comfortable ordering those. Was a wild guess on S&M.


All of the sizing is 42R and all of the S&M are the Slim cut.
I raised the shadows on the darker colored items so it can be seen easier, color is not accurate.


Main concerns overall:

• I always seem to have trouble near the arm pits, with what seems like extra material and my posture. This is exacerbated on my right side (photo left) because my right shoulder sits lower than my left.


Spier & Mackay Concerns:

• While these are all 42R, they fit differently. The suit is noticeably larger than the sportcoats, and the light check sportcoat fits tighter than the other two

• The half lining: seems to leave a line across the upper-mid of my back where the lining stops. 


SuitSupply Concerns:

• See individual post

MUCH APPRECIATE ANYONE TO TAKES TIME TO PROVIDE FEEDBACK - ON INDIVIDUAL OR MULTIPLE ITEMS, OR ON SUITSUPPLY VS S&M FOR MY FIT!!!​

 

[Rugger]

1) S&M Guabello - Blue Mix Texture - Super 130's

• The fit/cut here just seems a bit off. Can't quite put my finger on it - maybe a little too big most, but a little too snug across the bottom? It is not as trim/slim cut as I had thought it would be and isn't as trim as the sportcoats.



2) S&M VBC - Light Gray Twill Flannel

• This is one I really wanted to work, and i think it does for the most part?



3) S&M Angelico - Navy & Blue Check

• This one is definitely more narrow across the hips/bottom of jacket. Also seems to be a bit more bunch near the armpits and just below chest.



4) S&M Angelico - Navy Hopsack

• This one just doesn't seem to drape well and looks bunchy everywhere to me.





5) S&M Blue Hairline Stripe 16.5/35 Slim

• Seems like the fit could be better, could be worse. Sort of ho hum?

 

[Rugger]

SUITSUPPLY

6) SuitSupply Havana Mid-Grey Super130s

• No real complaints on this one



7) SuitSupply Havana Mid Navy - unlisted fabric quality

• Fabric on this one feels cheap and doesn't seem to drape well at all
• Shoulder pleating seems uneven, with right shoulder (photo left) seems to have a bit of a ridge

• Supposedly same cut as the above Havana but just seems to be unflattering overall - could just be camera angle?


 

[dieworkwear]

Of everything you posted, on silhouette alone, I like "S&M VBC - Light Gray Twill Flannel" the best.

The other S&Ms look good, but I wish they were a hair longer. I don't know if they're shorter than the grey twill flannel in real life, but if they are, I would go with the gray flannel cut.

The SuSu coats overlap on the quarters.

 

[norMD]

I think all the S&M jackets fit you reasonably well. The blue mix from S&M appears to by less nipped in the waist than the other S&M jacket. Maybe this is due to production margins or maybe the fabric is thinner. As dieworkwear said the SuSu jackets have overlapping quaters.

You have a dropped right shoulder and this is causing some excess fabric around your right shoulder/armhole. This is something S&M can adress with in-store MTM. I think you will have some excess fabric in that area with most RTW jackets and most of us do.

I think you could benefit from trying the S&M neapolitan cut. It has a slightly extended shoulder and is slightly longer.

 

[Rugger]

Are closed quarters generally considered a no-no or is it more personal preference? I honestly didn't notice that they were closed; will have to check my other suit supply jackets. Certainly the Y look isn't as good as a slight X look. Can't really unsee it now that it's been pointed out. Are there options to fix that?

 

[dieworkwear]

Closed vs open quarters is a matter of preference. Here's an example of an A&S coat cut by John Hitchcock, which has closed quarters

However, to my eye, your coat isn't so much closed as it's overlapping. It's rare to see coat overlap that much around the last button. Even on the coat above, you can see how the button and the buttonhole don't totally overlap. Yours, however, could be buttoned without straining the coat.

Only a tailor will be able to give you an answer on whether there's something technically wrong on your coat. To my eye, as a matter of style, it doesn't look very good. I'm also not a tailor, but my guess is that the coat isn't cut right for your posture. I don't know if the issue with your coat is about balance or it's just the design, but it could be that the coat isn't cut right for your posture.

I don't like posting stuff I've written elsewhere on here, as it seems gross and self-promotional, but it's easier for me to link this than re-write it. One of my tailors explains the concept of balance, and specifically what's called crookening nad straightening a coat, in this post. But a good tailor should be able to diagnose your coat in person.

The Mechanics Behind Bespoke Tailoring: Straightening & Crookening a Jacket with Steed

When we spoke to Edwin DeBoise last week about how he creates double-breasted jackets, he touched on a technique called “straightening a...

putthison.com

 

[FlyingHorker]

all those jackets fit you better than like 90% of my wardrobe.

 

[Rugger]

Here two more pics. Matching jacket and trousers is the same Havana as the above #6 with overlapping quarters - I tried standing with a bit more relaxed posture.

Second pic is the Havana trousers, but a Sienna jacket. This is with rigid mug-shot posture. Quarters look better but still on the closed side. Sienna cut fits me but isn't as flattering overall (quarters excluded) for my body, in my opinion. It is a 'safe' cut for me.

WRT the original item list - I'm returning everything except the S&M light grey VBC flannel. I'm thinking that as the fabric wears that it will drape better and the under arm areas will loosen up a bit. I'm also going to retain the light grey havana susu suit, but bring it in to their store and get their opinion on whether or not the quarters can be opened up a bit. If not, I'll probably return it. Thoughts on whether or not that can be fixed by bringing in the waist or the bottom of the coat? @dieworkwear @Despos

 

[Aloysius16]

Normally, in my experience, overlapping quarters indicate a short front for your (erect or sway back) posture. You would normally see the quarters fanning forwards in the side-on view, but that isn’t the case here.

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm not a tailor, so I can't tell you what can be fixed. Despos would have a much more informed opinion on that.

Given all you've posted, I would just return the Susu suits since the grey flannel S&M fits better off the rack. It doesn't seem worth it to try to go through all the alterations if you have better options.

IME, suits don't break in like people suggest. If you want the back of your sleeves cleaned up, you will have to bring those to a local alterations tailor. Most RTW suits and sport coats have to be adjusted anyway.

Don't feel the need to stand more "relaxed." Just stand with your natural posture. The coat should fit your natural posture. If you naturally stand with your shoulders back, then you will have to find a coat that fits you best. But if you've thrown your shoulders back and pushed your arms back for the photo, then the issues you see in your sleeves may be a result of that.

 

[Rugger]

Well - just got back from the store. The sales staff and tailor convinced me that the havana model in that size given my proportions will lay like that - they didn't think it looked bad but then again their job is to sell. I leave my jackets unbuttoned an awful lot so I decided to keep it. interestingly I also left with 2 additional Havana sportcoats, neither or which have the quarters issue. When I go back to pick up the grey suit from hemming I may try on the same jacket from a different pair and see if it isn't an issue with just this particular jacket.

Of all the models I think the Washington in 44S with sleeves lengthened (instead of 42R unaltered) fits me best. Issue there is drop 6 from 44 doesn't work and would require a lot of taking in - so will either need to do their semi-custom program or separates, though they don't offer a ton of separates for the Washington.