Opinions on tux options...

[PartagasIV]

Wondering what general thoughts are on two things: formal shirts and bowties.
For shirts--what is the general consensus about dimpled vs. nondimpled (golfball dots), stud holes vs. plain front (no visible buttons)? And, of course, the combinations of both--I'm curious what to buy.

As for bowties, I want a vertically slim and also a huge droopy bowtie--opinions wanted on the best places to get such things. Looking for the best quality.
Thanks!

 

[grimslade]

There's a lot of previous discussion on most of these questions. Studs are more traditional than the hidden placket, but especially in europe, hidden plackets have become very common. A pique shirt (dimpled) was traditionally the domain of white tie, I believe, but is probably an improvement over a strictly plain-front shirt. It signifies that you are dressing up, and not merely recycling business clothes for a tuxedo. That's my $0.02.

 

[itsstillmatt]

I wear a pleated front with covered placket. I don't find pique comfortable and don't much like the feel of the back of the studs on my chest.

 

[Concordia]

Pique is more formal, and IMO better suited to the 3-piece dinner getup. Which is not to say more appropriate in all instances. I've softened and streamlined that look by ordering a diamond patterned flat cloth for a semi-soft front shirt. Should arrive tomorrow-- we'll see if it was a good idea.

To dial it down a little further, soft pleated is a perfectly nice way to complement a soft DB dinner jacket, for instance. I like wide pleats, as they tend to look less ratty when imperfectly pressed.

I very much prefer studs in all cases, but own studs I like and have a chest broad enough to make use of the punctuation. Your mileage may vary.

Budd in London sells a basic lineup of ties that are sized to your neck. Butterfly and batwing. I'd bet that Sam Hober is thinking about how to jump into that business, and could probably make one to your exact specifications once you know your size and style preference.

 

[The Happy Stroller]

It should be helpful if you could give everyone a better idea of the context in which you are wearing what you called a formal shirt, which to others might be called informal. For example, are you being invited to an informal evening function for which the host requires black tie? Or, are you out for a night of fun with a group of friends with no specific dress requirements? Perhaps you will be going on stage as an entertainer? Otherwise advice is being given in a social vacuum.

Originally Posted by PartagasIV

Wondering what general thoughts are on two things: formal shirts and bowties.
For shirts--what is the general consensus about dimpled vs. nondimpled (golfball dots), stud holes vs. plain front (no visible buttons)? And, of course, the combinations of both--I'm curious what to buy.

As for bowties, I want a vertically slim and also a huge droopy bowtie--opinions wanted on the best places to get such things. Looking for the best quality.
Thanks!

 

[Sam Hober]

Originally Posted by Concordia

......
Budd in London sells a basic lineup of ties that are sized to your neck. Butterfly and batwing. I'd bet that Sam Hober is thinking about how to jump into that business, and could probably make one to your exact specifications once you know your size and style preference.


Concordia,

Your intuition is very good.

I have been thinking about bowties for quite a while now.

Shapes, sizes etc. All one size.

What would you think about a classic woven Black faille for evening events?

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Sam Hober

Concordia,

Your intuition is very good.

I have been thinking about bowties for quite a while now.

Shapes, sizes etc. All one size.

What would you think about a classic woven Black faille for evening events?

I was hoping more for sized bowties with grosgrain being the number one preference. Most of us here prefer grosgrain facings on our lapels and a matching grosgrain tie can be a bit tricky to find these days. And if you find them they are even less commonly sized.

 

[A Y]

I think faille silk can be a pretty good match for grosgrain. Carrot & Gibbs made me one after I told them I was looking for something that would match well against grosgrain.

--Andre

 

[Sam Hober]

Originally Posted by Sator

I was hoping more for sized bowties with grosgrain being the number one preference. Most of us here prefer grosgrain facings on our lapels and a matching grosgrain tie can be a bit tricky to find these days. And if you find them they are even less commonly sized.


What I meant about sizes was one size for each individual tie not an adjustable one.

 

[Sam Hober]

Originally Posted by Andre Yew

I think faille silk can be a pretty good match for grosgrain. Carrot & Gibbs made me one after I told them I was looking for something that would match well against grosgrain.

--Andre

Interestingly they are just down the road from us.

 

[Concordia]

If I understand the word correctly, I think a faille bowtie would be an excellent idea. Sort of a light silk barathea, I think? Can mate with satin, complements grosgrain. Ties nicely loose or tight.
Tony Brown of the late, lamented Woods and Brown on Sackville St set me up with one that I still pull out once in a while. Less frequently now, given that it is a collector's item.

 

[A Y]

Originally Posted by Concordia

If I understand the word correctly, I think a faille bowtie would be an excellent idea. Sort of a light silk barathea, I think? Can mate with satin, complements grosgrain. Ties nicely loose or tight.

I'm not sure if it could be compared to barathea. There's a ribbed twill-like texture that echoes the grosgrain. I think the tightness of the knot is also affected by the interlining of the bowtie, but I'm still trying to figure out how to tie a loose bow without the whole thing unraveling. My C&G tends to be stiffer, and I like shortening the bow a bit, so that the finished bow has a more 3-D "bloom", and stands out from the collar.

If one were serious about matching, I guess you could always reserve some of your DJ's facings, and have it made into a bowtie. I think many of the American-based sellers of bows would do a CMT.

--Andre

 

[Daniel_NY]

I can only speak for Europeans. They always have covered button flies and never button studs. The basic choices that you have are 1) either a Kent collar or a Wing collar and 2) a plissee front or plain front. Always with French Cuffs. Either white or off-white (light cream). Notch lapels are not perceived as classic at all. It only comes up now, especially because the American market asks for it. One button peak or shawls are the standard for younger men. BTW, that's also the recent James Bond style. ;-)

 

[Jovan]

Whatever you, make sure you never get pre-tied or big droopy bowties. It isn't really a matter of money as they both cost the same and it won't kill you to learn how to tie one. The second one is obvious.

 

[chorse123]

WTF? Are you just bumping up any thread that has ever mentioned a bowtie?