opinions on a sportcoat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnapril, Feb 20, 2005.

  1. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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  2. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    I detest jackets which have a welt breast pockets and lower patch pockets. IMO if a jacket has lower patch pockets the breast pocket should be a patch pocket as well.
     


  3. armscye

    armscye Senior member

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    Nothing wrong with that jacket for warm weather wear.

    You'll get plenty of easy looks out of it by pairing with light blue shirts, which of course make your skin tones look nice. I'd avoid overlight khaki slacks, since then you get the "darker on top" effect that turns your vee-shape into an inverted vee.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    This is a Naples tradition. Or really a southern Italian tradition. They do it all the time. A tailor once explained to me a high-minded reason, but I forgot what it was.
     


  5. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    I'm sure it was something pretty Byzantine (and cultural).

    koji
     


  6. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

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    pictures not the best but there appears to be no waist suppression with this coat. And the high button stance doesn't create nice lines.

    I know there is a lot of handwork in a Borrelli piece, but without a defined sillouete, what's the point?
     


  7. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Borrelli's do have rather signficant waist supression, and it's a three button rolled to the 2nd model.  The pics aren't terribly flattering though.

    koji
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I disagree. I much prefer the high button stance. I do agree with Koji that this coat is not shown to advantage in that photo, however.
     


  9. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    I agree with Thracozaag. Borrelli jackets are nicely shaped. Pictures can make them look like sack suits when draped over small dress forms.
     


  10. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

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    Originally Posted by cuffthis,Feb. 20 2005,10:08
    And the high button stance doesn't create nice lines.
    I disagree. Â I much prefer the high button stance. Â I do agree with Koji that this coat is not shown to advantage in that photo, however.
    I meant that I do not prefer that the lapel roll to the top button. It would look much better if the lapel rolled to the middle button, like this: [​IMG]
     


  11. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Oh, me too. I have railed against short lapels many times. Almost as bad as black suits.
     


  12. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

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    I don't think this jacket (or Borrelli) wants to be part of the "natural shoulder" tradition. In the '60s, you'd very rarely see open patch packets on any odd jackets from Brooks, Chipp, etc (blazers generally had flapped patch pockets with welt breast pockets while tweeds simply had flapped pockets and welt breast pockets). The older tradition used the open patch pockets on the odd sport jacket to differentiate it from city wear. In "Clothes and the Man", Gary Cooper wears a herringbone jacket with three open patch pockets (p.55) while Anthony Drexel Biddle wears a DB seersucker jacket with open patch pockets and a welt breast pocket (p. 105).

    As to trouser color, the jacket has a herringbone pattern so I'd opt for lightweight wool twill or gabardine (as opposed to a plain weave). Either a taupe darker than the jacket (should have contrast-avoid mismatched suit) or medium gray twill. Blue shirt with tie that picks up the blue overplaid. Darker brown shoes.

    If you are an EBay buyer, it's not that often you find a jacket in your size that you want to buy. Meaning that you may have to be lenient with styling details (vents, pockets), but of course you can't be lenient with fit.
     


  13. Fabienne

    Fabienne Senior member

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    Although I like the fabric up-close, I find it rather dull from afar. It depends on your skin tone and hair color, I suppose, although a shirt the appropriate color could remedy that.
     


  14. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    if you steamed out the wrinkles and pulled it in with a clip in back it would look better - mannequins tend to run 38r-40r and 44 and up look lousy without some work.
    As to your what to wear question...

    1. I THINK I know this exact fabric and it is ideal for spring summer.
    2. If I were wearing it... I have a darker tan/taupe pair of linen trousers and a sky blue linen shirt that would look nice with it and some comfortable loafers... I'm in a hot climate and for August I need fabrics like this. Nice here means in my opinion since favorable reviews seem to draw waves of criticism around here lately... man are people just grumpy due to the weather or what?
     


  15. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Thanks to all for your observations and ideas.
     


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