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opinion on my new custom made suitsupply trousers!!

nghuan15

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Recently I ordered a custom made tuxedo trousers to match with my db jacket. I am new to suit and all stuff, to me the front looks okay, but the back of the trouser looks off, can you guy tell me why? also should I return it?
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paxonus

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Too tight under the seat/upper thigh. The easiest way to avoid this is to have the trousers cut in a straight line down from the widest point at the hips to the hem, tapering the width as it goes to the hem. This will give a perfectly straight drape with no wrinkles. But it comes at the expense of a very full cut.

To get a slimmer cut the tapering needs to start by curving slightly under the seat before dropping straight to the hem. If the curve is excessive, you get the wrinkling you see. They are also too tight at the calf. Although I can't tell from the photos, they are probably also too tight at the hem. The hem shouldn't be less than 8 inches on a 34 inch waist for a clean drape--personally I would go closer to 8.5. One caveat: the trousers need to pair well in fit with the jacket. A full cut trouser with a slim fitting jacket may have a good drape, but will look mismatched.

Bearing all that in mind, those trousers are unacceptable.
 

nghuan15

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Too tight under the seat/upper thigh. The easiest way to avoid this is to have the trousers cut in a straight line down from the widest point at the hips to the hem, tapering the width as it goes to the hem. This will give a perfectly straight drape with no wrinkles. But it comes at the expense of a very full cut.

To get a slimmer cut the tapering needs to start by curving slightly under the seat before dropping straight to the hem. If the curve is excessive, you get the wrinkling you see. They are also too tight at the calf. Although I can't tell from the photos, they are probably also too tight at the hem. The hem shouldn't be less than 8 inches on a 34 inch waist for a clean drape--personally I would go closer to 8.5. One caveat: the trousers need to pair well in fit with the jacket. A full cut trouser with a slim fitting jacket may have a good drape, but will look mismatched.

Bearing all that in mind, those trousers are unacceptable.
Thank you a lot for your opinion. I agree with what you said, it has too many wrinkles in the thigh. By the way, do you think this trouser that I had before fits better than the one above? To me it is more roomier, but I feel somewhat shorter than my height.
Should I keep it or buy a new trousers
dji_mimo_20240621_121318_20240621121319_1718965120211_photo.jpeg
dji_mimo_20240621_121354_20240621121355_1718965120115_photo.jpeg
 

KOz

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Thank you a lot for your opinion. I agree with what you said, it has too many wrinkles in the thigh. By the way, do you think this trouser that I had before fits better than the one above? To me it is more roomier, but I feel somewhat shorter than my height.
Should I keep it or buy a new trousers
View attachment 2203519 View attachment 2203521
These ones are much better, although still a bit short (at least for my taste).
 

breakaway01

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agree with @KOz - your older trousers look so much better than the newer pair. Also agree that they are slightly short for my taste but passable. Honestly if it were up to me, I'd consider going wider. I am guessing they are 7.5" or less at the hem? In any case, I don't think they make you look shorter than your newer pair.
 

paxonus

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Thank you a lot for your opinion. I agree with what you said, it has too many wrinkles in the thigh. By the way, do you think this trouser that I had before fits better than the one above? To me it is more roomier, but I feel somewhat shorter than my height.
Should I keep it or buy a new trousers
View attachment 2203519 View attachment 2203521
These are much better. I also agree with the other posters that they are too short. That is the reason why they make you feel shorter. If you want to increase how tall you look, make your trousers longer. To do that you need to widen the hem.

The slimness of fit does not necessarily increase the appearance of height. The length of the trousers does, coupled with a clean drape--no wrinkling, and some break at the cuff. To achieve that you need more width all the way from top to bottom.
 

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