Opinion needed on MTM in Toronto

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wetnose, Feb 22, 2009.

  1. osc

    osc Senior member

    Messages:
    349
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2008
    Actually just to be clear (and I'm sure you had meant to say), Trend Custom Tailors is set up for full bespoke services. Believe it or not Don Lee will charge anywhere from ~$700 to $2,000 CDN depending on what you want to have done (which was also mentioned here BTW - http://www.trendcustomtailors.com/ac...p?photo=toro01

    While I'm not yet a customer of Don's, if the OP is willing to spend a few hundred dollars more I would highly recommend Trend; it's full bespoke, more choices available, 100% made local (less fabrics and other hardware), and considerably fewer CO2 emissions when you take transportation into consideration (if that is ever a concern of yours).

    I had a good 20 minute conversation with Don last week, he seems really nice and is willing to spend the time to work with you to identify and create exactly what you are looking for. I believe a small hand full of members on here can further attest to this statement.

    Interestingly Don had said that what clients typically commission cost around ~$1,700. I'm going to set up an appointment with him in a few weeks once I get a much better idea of what can be done so I know exactly what I'm looking for - a mini project of mine if you will.


    Let us know how it turns out - It would be interesting to see as there are quite a few options in TO and maybe we can gather a pros/cons of each... [​IMG]
     


  2. UserNameToronto

    UserNameToronto Senior member

    Messages:
    290
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2008
    Actually just to be clear (and I'm sure you had meant to say), Trend Custom Tailors is set up for full bespoke services. Believe it or not Don Lee will charge anywhere from ~$700 to $2,000 CDN depending on what you want to have done (which was also mentioned here BTW - http://www.trendcustomtailors.com/ac...p?photo=toro01

    While I'm not yet a customer of Don's, if the OP is willing to spend a few hundred dollars more I would highly recommend Trend; it's full bespoke, more choices available, 100% made local (less fabrics and other hardware), and considerably fewer CO2 emissions when you take transportation into consideration (if that is ever a concern of yours).

    I had a good 20 minute conversation with Don last week, he seems really nice and is willing to spend the time to work with you to identify and create exactly what you are looking for. I believe a small hand full of members on here can further attest to this statement.

    Interestingly Don had said that what clients typically commission cost around ~$1,700. I'm going to set up an appointment with him in a few weeks once I get a much better idea of what can be done so I know exactly what I'm looking for - a mini project of mine if you will.


    Thank you so much.

    I would like to know more about Trend, as an alternative to Thick as Theives (an LA outfit with a similar supply chain as mentioned previously and a large positive following on this board). TaT would run $480 + shipping x 1.25 exchange rate = ~$625. If Trend clocks in at under $1K I think it's a no brainer to stay local.
     


  3. gj555

    gj555 Senior member

    Messages:
    331
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2005
    Location:
    Toronto
    Actually just to be clear (and I'm sure you had meant to say), Trend Custom Tailors is set up for full bespoke services. Believe it or not Don Lee will charge anywhere from ~$700 to $2,000 CDN depending on what you want to have done (which was also mentioned here BTW - http://www.trendcustomtailors.com/ac...p?photo=toro01

    Not to get into the debate but it really depends on how you define bespoke. I once had a tailor that claimed that there were no real bespoke tailors left in Toronto (regardless how the various "bespoke" and "custom" shops bill themselves). When I asked to clarify, he indicated he did not know of a single tailor in Toronto that did not start off with a standard paper block pattern during cutting and most use quite a bit of sewing machine to save costs.

    Other tailors, tailoring houses or mini manufacturers you may be able to find good value at for MTM in Toronto suits include Spiros, Balfour, Aquarius and Raji's (the suit in my post above).
     


  4. UserNameToronto

    UserNameToronto Senior member

    Messages:
    290
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2008
    Not to get into the debate but it really depends on how you define bespoke. I once had a tailor that claimed that there were no real bespoke tailors left in Toronto (regardless how the various "bespoke" and "custom" shops bill themselves). When I asked to clarify, he indicated he did not know of a single tailor in Toronto that did not start off with a standard paper block pattern during cutting and most use quite a bit of sewing machine to save costs.

    Other tailors, tailoring houses or mini manufacturers you may be able to find good value at for MTM in Toronto suits include Spiros, Balfour, Aquarius and Raji's (the suit in my post above).



    Which place was your suit from - Raji's? Who/where and what is the process/cost like?
     


  5. gj555

    gj555 Senior member

    Messages:
    331
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2005
    Location:
    Toronto
    Which place was your suit from - Raji's? Who/where and what is the process/cost like?

    Process is like most MTM tailors in the city. Choose fabric and get measured. Go for fitting. Go back to pick up suit and try on. Price depends on construction and fabric. For construction he will do anything from a mix of fusing and canvas to all canvass and hand sewn button holes. Fabrics in stock are much less than from books. Prices are competitive - expect in stock cloth to be under $1000.

    Edit: I should add that the jacket and pants are made all onsite.
     


  6. Albern

    Albern Senior member

    Messages:
    899
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2009
    Location:
    Second star to the right and straight on 'til morn
    Hey Guys,

    No problem. Do either of you plan on heading over to Trend anytime soon?

    Let us know how it turns out - It would be interesting to see as there are quite a few options in TO and maybe we can gather a pros/cons of each... [​IMG]

    A Pros & Cons Toronto Cheat Sheet would be really nice; I'm starting to rack up a list of go to and don't go and it's getting pretty expensive [​IMG]

    One very recent con would have to go to Sydney's on 795 Queen Street West. It has been brought up by a few members primarily in the Street and Denim forum but he does do "bespoke". After hearing some great things about him on here I decided to give him a try. As a test I took in a Ted Baker chesterfield coat that I got at a great price from Tom's Place to be altered by him.

    Walking into his store, I can tell already that all of the RTW merchandise was not my style; primarily casual ware, really skinny jeans, t-shirts, and hoodies. In any case I tried on the jacket and he did the usual; pinning, describing what could be done and what couldn't. etc...

    I also started asking him about what he offered in terms of bespoke. Unfortunately for some reason he didn't seem too open or interested in showing me what was available / what could be done just so I can get a sense of what his style and technique was. He did show me a light gray flannel two-piece with no machine work (supposedly) but from my inspection the seams and button holes looked to have been done by hand. Overall it was far removed from a more traditional suit in the sense that it was unlined and had a more casual appearance to it. Given his $3,000 CDN starting price I didn't see anything special about it that would warrant the price regardless of how much hand work was involved to make it. Also, to throw in another puzzle into the "Toronto Bespoke Quagmire", most of the work is outsourced to other local tailors.

    Coming back to the jacked I had altered. A small mishap with his staff aside, I picked it up a week later. Interestingly, rather than having Sydney be there to at least let me try on the jacket to ensure it fit correctly, one of his retail associates was the only person around and he just gave me the jacket in a suit bag that not only had the zipper broken, but the original hanger I had brought in with the jacket was replaced with a white dry cleaning one.

    When I got home to inspect the coat, the fit was okay but a few little details about how the work was done clued me in on the fact that rather than Sydney doing the work himself, Kim from Studio Kim (just 2 blocks south roughly) had actually done the work. The big indicator was the paper tag that she pins on clothes whenever pieces are brought into her shop. It was my expectation that Sydney would be doing the work; if that were not the case I could have easily brought my jacket to Studio Kim's instead and would have paid a bit less than what Sydney had charged me.

    Sorry if I've ranted too much about this but I feel it's worth commenting on.


    Thank you so much.

    I would like to know more about Trend, as an alternative to Thick as Theives (an LA outfit with a similar supply chain as mentioned previously and a large positive following on this board). TaT would run $480 + shipping x 1.25 exchange rate = ~$625. If Trend clocks in at under $1K I think it's a no brainer to stay local.


    Again, $3,000 vs. ~$1,000; and all the work is done by a dedicated team of 6 or 7 people all in one building, there is no question as to who should get your business. Granted you might be more into the street / casual style; I wouldn't be surprised if Don would be able to create that deconstructed look if you ask for it but at a much lower price and with much better service.
     


  7. Albern

    Albern Senior member

    Messages:
    899
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2009
    Location:
    Second star to the right and straight on 'til morn
    Hey gj555,

    That is both a good and fair comment. My understanding of bespoke is having a suit (or any article of clothing for that matter) to be cut from an individual's paper pattern and that anyone involved would work from, rather than MTM which takes down measurements and tried to pigeon-hole your size into a set block of sizes and patters available at the manufacture. While I can't say yet as to whether Trend keeps all of their client's paper patterns on file, it seems that whatever you can dream up Don and his team can create. Also, on their website there is a constant emphasis on the one suit made by an individual for an individual principle which seems to be consistent with the true bespoke mentality http://www.englishcut.com/

    These two posts also shed some light into Trend:
    - http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...t=Trend+Custom

    - http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...t=Trend+Custom

    Not to get into the debate but it really depends on how you define bespoke. I once had a tailor that claimed that there were no real bespoke tailors left in Toronto (regardless how the various "bespoke" and "custom" shops bill themselves). When I asked to clarify, he indicated he did not know of a single tailor in Toronto that did not start off with a standard paper block pattern during cutting and most use quite a bit of sewing machine to save costs.

    Other tailors, tailoring houses or mini manufacturers you may be able to find good value at for MTM in Toronto suits include Spiros, Balfour, Aquarius and Raji's (the suit in my post above).
     


  8. wetnose

    wetnose Senior member

    Messages:
    1,013
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2009
    so you're paying a huge premium for measurements, then getting your shirt done at Jantzen?

    Last few days reading SF have been educational...when you first wrote Jantzen, I was mystified at the name because I thought you meant these guys:

    http://www.jantzen.com/

    Uh, no I'm not a 36c....thank you....[​IMG]
     


  9. wetnose

    wetnose Senior member

    Messages:
    1,013
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2009
    The list (suits and shirts only) of Toronto MTM tailors so far:

    1) Fifth on King
    2) Trends
    3) Spiros
    4) Rajis
    5) House of Salgado

    I wasn't aware that trends is competitive with Fifth on King and if they can match the price, then I would definitely favor them. Basically my goal is to get an approximate equivalent of a Zegna mainline suit for half the price...and also help the small merchants.

    Also, from my search on styleforum, these are tailors who make the trip to Toronto, do measurements then send you the suit/shirts from HK. They coordinate with local tailors to finish the job.

    1) maxwell (coming in March)
    2) mytailor (twice a year)
    3) Jantzen (?)

    Posters are welcome to contribute to above list - but only tailors providing suits/shirts please.
     


  10. gj555

    gj555 Senior member

    Messages:
    331
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2005
    Location:
    Toronto
    Hey gj555,

    That is both a good and fair comment. My understanding of bespoke is having a suit (or any article of clothing for that matter) to be cut from an individual's paper pattern and that anyone involved would work from, rather than MTM which takes down measurements and tried to pigeon-hole your size into a set block of sizes and patters available at the manufacture. While I can't say yet as to whether Trend keeps all of their client's paper patterns on file, it seems that whatever you can dream up Don and his team can create. Also, on their website there is a constant emphasis on the one suit made by an individual for an individual principle which seems to be consistent with the true bespoke mentality http://www.englishcut.com/


    No doubt that many of the tailors take a basic block pattern and alter it so much that it ultimately ends up much different. I could be wrong but I think most tailors in Toronto that advertise an individual paper pattern use a standard pattern as an initial base. The individual paper pattern is then cut towards the end of the suit making process for future reference and not at the beginning.
     


  11. gj555

    gj555 Senior member

    Messages:
    331
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2005
    Location:
    Toronto
    1) maxwell (coming in March)
    2) mytailor (twice a year)
    3) Jantzen (?)

    Posters are welcome to contribute to above list - but only tailors providing suits/shirts please.


    There is a tailor near the hospitals downtown on Elizabeth street that uses a company in Hong Kong called Lee Barron to sell MTM suits and shirts. I can't vouch for quality of the suits but the prices seem very good.
     


  12. doink

    doink Senior member

    Messages:
    296
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2006
    anyone try green shag on queen west for shirts?
     


  13. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

    Messages:
    6,860
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    Location:
    Toronto
    When I got home to inspect the coat, the fit was okay but a few little details about how the work was done clued me in on the fact that rather than Sydney doing the work himself, Kim from Studio Kim (just 2 blocks south roughly) had actually done the work. The big indicator was the paper tag that she pins on clothes whenever pieces are brought into her shop. It was my expectation that Sydney would be doing the work; if that were not the case I could have easily brought my jacket to Studio Kim's instead and would have paid a bit less than what Sydney had charged me.

    Sorry if I've ranted too much about this but I feel it's worth commenting on.


    You know that it's a store that makes $ when you buy stuff there, not an alterations shop. How can you be surprised (and indignant to boot) that they would outsource the alteration of a coat you bought somewhere else?
     


  14. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

    Messages:
    1,100
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2007
    I have yet to see evidence that Trend drafts individual patterns. As well, I have yet to see a mother-of-pearl button on any of their shirts, or a handmade buttonhole on any of their suits. If Trend's price varies between $750 and $2000, and the determinant of price is fabric, then the product cannot be handmade or bespoke in the sense that it is understood on Styleforum.

    Hey gj555,

    That is both a good and fair comment. My understanding of bespoke is having a suit (or any article of clothing for that matter) to be cut from an individual's paper pattern and that anyone involved would work from, rather than MTM which takes down measurements and tried to pigeon-hole your size into a set block of sizes and patters available at the manufacture. While I can't say yet as to whether Trend keeps all of their client's paper patterns on file, it seems that whatever you can dream up Don and his team can create. Also, on their website there is a constant emphasis on the one suit made by an individual for an individual principle which seems to be consistent with the true bespoke mentality http://www.englishcut.com/

    These two posts also shed some light into Trend:
    - http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...t=Trend+Custom

    - http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...t=Trend+Custom
     


  15. sastre

    sastre Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2009
    silence is the greatest allure for those who seek enlightenment!..................
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by