1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Opening my own store

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jetLab, Nov 16, 2003.

  1. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    33,414
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    None taken [​IMG] and I also didn't mean to paint all Europeans with the same brush. Certainly, there are certainly non-American jeanswear companies that are commendable - A.P.C (France), and SBU (Italy) and Helmut Lang (Austria) come immediately to mind. All of these are notable for their construction and fit, the most important elements in any jean. And the majority of high-market designers I like are also European. And certainly, there are a lot of American makers that I consider subpar as well (if you've been on the forum long enough, you might remember me slamming (LA based.) AG jeans, for much the same reasons as I will now continue to slam Energy and D&G. The styles are not particularly innovative - D&G jeans are just overpriced, strumpeted up versions of old Levis, and Energie takes a lot of its cues from Diesel (notice that I didn't slam Diesel either,) and copies a lot of street-inspired runway fashions in louder colors and inferior materials (Chloe, for example, in womenswear, and ironically, maybe, D&G in menswear.) D&G is deliberately kitschy, but I'm not sure that Energie even has the wherewithal to be. In general, Energie jeans feature washes which look painted on and obvious, and show a remarkable lack of restraint. The shirts feature some of the worst material and sewing I've ever seen. For me, Energie is sort of like an Italian version of Hugo, Hugo Boss - a second tier maker that owes a large debt to better designers - except louder and of poorer quality - perhaps illustrative of the stylistic differences between Germans and Italians. And I think that it would be a stretch to say that Rogan and True Religion are too "square and boring." I would bet pretty good money that Rogan styles, for one, will be soundly copied by any number of designers and manufacturers in the next couple of years. And if you want extreme cuts, try out Frankie B. BTW, I'm actually a transplanted Canadian, not an American.
     
  2. Valmont

    Valmont Senior member

    Messages:
    130
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    aight then that just got you a free pass for the eurotrash remarks=) lived in Montreal for 4 years you can't find fitter women anywhere, except for maybe here in Sweden....

    I see where you're going but I can forgive some degree of copying, it's a fact of life ppl are like sheep we all end mimicing each other so why should designers be any different
     
  3. Zubberah

    Zubberah Senior member

    Messages:
    407
    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2003
    I would agree that this may have been the case in the 80s but I thought (and indeed believe) that that Versace "trashiness" has recently been usurped by the likes of Cavalli, D&G , Gucci, Gaultier et al. After all what was the horror story in the latest menswear showings? Armani doing FLUORO 80s trash.

    In fact I would argue that Versace has become more conservative over the last 5 or so years, especially in the Couture and Classic V2 lines - out go the gaudy prints and in come more browns, beige and strong whites this season.  Elton John must be disappointed.

    Personally, I find nothing is a trashy as Gucci has been for the last 3 yrs and Tom Ford often said he modelled his clothes on junkie male prostitutes.

    To JetBoy - your choices will be dictated by competition, financial contraints, and understanding the demographics of the area.  In my experience a good mix is usually preferable - why alienate an entire demographic?

    Armani has become the new McDonalds in Australia - every 2nd store stocks them and all those label stand-alone stores catering to the Asian market, especially AIX and Emprio Armani.

    So I would go Armani OR Prada, not both (even though I detest both brands for their aesthetic tautology and boring appeal). Likewise, D&G OR Versace OR Cavalli. Not all three.  Tailor your store to the market.
     
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    33,414
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    I admit that I've seen a few pieces I would consider wearable in the latest Versus. Nevertheless, I've find recent collections, despite some good individual pieces, rather fragmented and lacking direction. I was not a fan of Gianni's Versace, but at least it had a clear identity. I see Versace going down the same path as Perry Ellis, a slow descent into obscurity and irrelevance. (For accent pieces, I actually recommended Cavalli - more rock and roll than Versace's glam, but similar in many ways) I just don't see the point in carrying a brand that is (as I see it) on the downward slope.
     
  5. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

    Messages:
    3,134
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2002
    Location:
    Cygnus X-1
    In fact I would argue that Versace has become more conservative over the last 5 or so years, especially in the Couture and Classic V2 lines - out go the gaudy prints and in come more browns, beige and strong whites this season. Â Elton John must be disappointed.
    I admit that I've seen a few pieces I would consider wearable in the latest Versus. Â Nevertheless, I've find recent collections, despite some good individual pieces, rather fragmented and lacking direction. Â I was not a fan of Gianni's Versace, but at least it had a clear identity. Â I see Versace going down the same path as Perry Ellis, a slow descent into obscurity and irrelevance. Â (For accent pieces, I actually recommended Cavalli - more rock and roll than Versace's glam, but similar in many ways) Â I just don't see the point in carrying a brand that is (as I see it) on the downward slope.
    Who's the prime mover for Versace now? Donatella?
     
  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    33,414
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    Donatella since Gianni was killed in 1997 (?)
     
  7. hermes

    hermes Senior member

    Messages:
    1,020
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2003
    Location:
    canada
    but what will come of versace when donatella's daughter soon turns 18 and inherits control of 50% of the company, to her mother's 20% and her father's 30%?

    and to jetlab, as a fellow canadian, i think your choices will be fine for toronto, LA guy made some very valuable points - versace didn't even last more than a few years on bloor street, t.o. is way too conservative

    why the US$ pricing on your website?

    and if all fails, try to get thomas pink to sell you their first ever franchise and open it up on bloor or bay streets and make a killing with the suit crowd
     
  8. Pink22m

    Pink22m Senior member

    Messages:
    772
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2003
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    That is an interesting point hermes, but I think it is quite valid. If you could get Thomas Pink shirts in your boutique, you would be the first place to carry Pink outside of their stores. From my own experience the shirts are good with nice colors and fabrics. Definetely a good option to explore.
     
  9. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

    Messages:
    4,458
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2003
    speaking of franchises there is a french shirt company called cafe coton which recently opened a store in san francisco. i believe it's their only one in the states. anyone know of their products?
     
  10. VMan

    VMan Senior member

    Messages:
    5,103
    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2003
    Just a question for you jetLab:

    My friend and I were talking (seriously) about doing this after college. The area we live in doesn't have a lot of fashion-impact as you might call it, and frankly 90% of the people buy their clothing at Kohl's or Wal*Mart. However, there are a few stores that sell fashionable brands (Diesel, Cavallli, Paper, Seven, etc) and a few that sell higher-end menswear (Canali, Zegna, Ted Baker, Burberry, Boss). Our store would target the 20-30 year-old male and would either be located in the 'east side' (area very near my college, very popular with yuppies and the artsy/hip people...many college students) or the North Shore area (also near my college, though extends a few miles north, home to the wealthy of the area and has many houses that sell for $4million+. While there is a lot of money in this area, most of the people are older and have families). Current locations for the existing high-end stores are in the east side (for the more hip stores) and downtown and North Shore for the traditional menswear stores. We would carry a blend of street wear and modern conservative styles. We would like to focus on the jeans/casual shirt apparel the most, but also include some suits/dress shirts/slacks. Our brands would include the likes of Kenneth Cole, Donna Karan Collection, D&G, Diesel, Seven, Paper, Buffalo, Lacoste, Ben Sherman, etc. We wouldn't be too high-end because there isn't a market for that.

    How much (if I may ask) do you pay for the wholesale stock of merchandise, and where do you find the suppliers. Would you be able to give examples of how much I could expect to pay for certain brands/items of clothing? Also, would it be better in your opinion to buy a store, or rent? It would be hard to get the capitol to buy a place, but it would be a good investment because we'd locate the shop in a very nice area with rising property values. Also, what is an estimate of what a small store (with inventory) would cost to set up? Thanks a lot.

    Eric
     
  11. FCS

    FCS Senior member

    Messages:
    753
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2003
    Location:
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Jetlab, wondering if you're considering to carry Alden shoes? As far as I know no store around Toronto carries them, and this has also been confirmed by an Alden reps too.
     
  12. Maxim

    Maxim Member

    Messages:
    22
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Just wondering why do people get intimidated with Dior Homme? Also what is the line's preferred look? I mean what type of people is best suited to wear Dior Homme. Thanks.
     
  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    33,414
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    Dior Homme: mainly black and white, with the occasional brown or beige piece (he did red a few seasons ago.) Early eighties new wave and punk inspired. He has claimed in several interviews that he likes the uniformed look - echoes of Prada (who famously claimed that she was making clothes for a very chic army,) maybe? Terrific materials and very sharp cuts, and very, very slim. If you have an ounce of body fat, don't even bother with the pants (I don't.) Best for skinny, skinny people.

    Intimidating in that the clothes are nopt particularly user-friendly to the average (even slightly) overweight north American.
     
  14. Maxim

    Maxim Member

    Messages:
    22
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2003
    Hi,

    Ok what about the quality of Dirk Bikkembergs? What's their styling, and etc? Please enlighten. Thanks.
     
  15. thc

    thc Senior member

    Messages:
    317
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    New York
    There are some lines that are just hard to find anywhere in the US for men.  I know none of these are on your list, but if you have access to them, I would definitely be interested, especially since I go to Toronto twice a year:

    Samsonite Blacklabel
    Mandarina Duck
    hLam
    Trussardi
    Valextra leather
    Goldpfeil leather
    Tanner Krolle leather
    Rene Lezard
    Cerruti Arte/1881 (not the licensed stuff)
    Jaeger
    Strenesse
    Byblos
    Krizia

    All i can think of for now.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by