Open or closed quarters?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by antirabbit, Sep 10, 2007.

  1. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    What say ye?
    I have a new suit with open quarters, I think I like it.
    What is the opinions here?
    Pics of examples?
    is there something inbetween?
    What characteristics does each impart?
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Open!

    Closed looks asymetrical, like a Y. Open looks fluid and symetrical, like an X. Closed looks like the coat is out of balance, with a short front and a long back.
     


  3. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Open.

    But I'm just saying that because I'm Manton's lapdog. Or fanboy. Or whatever they called me.
     


  4. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    Just the other day I noticed a man in a very boxy suit coat with closed quarters. It had a smock-like appearance. Open quarters provide visual interest and serve as a nice counterpoint to the V formed by the lapels.
     


  5. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Open.

    But I'm just saying that because I'm Manton's lapdog. Or fanboy. Or whatever they called me.


    Sycophant.
     


  6. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Sycophant.

    Right!

    Thanks.
     


  7. appolyon

    appolyon Senior member

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    Can we get pics of examples?
     


  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Very closed really doesn't look good - there may be exceptions but I can't think of any.

    But more open doesn't necessarily mean better.

    This is too open for me:
    [​IMG]
     


  9. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Very closed really doesn't look good - there may be exceptions but I can't think of any.

    But more open doesn't necessarily mean better.

    This is too open for me:
    [​IMG]


    I don't think it's the openess of the quaters that makes that coat look unusual. It's more the button stance. There are two buttons, neither of which is at the waist of the coat. As I recall, the traditional way to wear such coats was to button both buttons. Doing that, the quarters would close up a bit.
     


  10. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    I also think that having the bottom button done and not the top creates an asymmetry that is unflattering. If the top button were done and the bottom left open, the jacket would look a little more balanced.
     


  11. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I agree that the button stance(s) is weird but I think that even with the top button buttoned, it would still be a little too cut away.

    Even with Huntsman one-button coats, the quarters stay closed / overlap a bit lower before opening.

    Edit: same sort of thing from Richard Anderson

    [​IMG]
     


  12. nioh

    nioh Senior member

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    Open!

    Goes with a good cut.
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I agree, I don't like a perfect X. The opening above the button should be a little wider than the opening below. I really don't like it when the opening below is wider. That makes the coat look out of balance in the opposite way: long front, short back.
     


  14. novalis

    novalis Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Interestingly enough, some don't think the exposure of open quarters is appropriate. Check out this embedded video at http://www.gregchapman.com/

    Near the end of the video, Chapman, a clothier in LA, comments on a client's RTW suit jacket and notes that it "wasn't cut properly in the front and consequently exposes the crotch".
     


  15. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Isnt that why better suit makers put much time and effort into the front of pants?

    Can we get a pic (Manton) of what the ideal looks like?
     


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