Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[bdavro23]

not to turn this into a political thread - but is the US these tariffs as leverage for an 'ask'? From what I've read its in retaliation for the EU subsidizing AirBus per the WTO...but a) why not place tariffs on airplane related items instead of these consumer-focused items (wine, clothes, cheese...some of my favorite things) , and b) Do we have a demand out there that would be met that would result in the elimination of these tariffs

hopefully two front trade wars are as devastating to the homeland as two front war wars

Airbus has a factory in Mississippi that make parts for their planes. The US Govt doesnt want to hurt that factory or its workers, especially as they are in a Republican stronghold, so they cant go after Airbus directly. The EU takes the punishment more broadly, instead.

This is of course a very simplistic overview, but thats the cliffnotes version.

 

[TN001]

Agreed; this Airbus retribution will probably get ironed out on Tuesday, although I find it odd for a few reasons: 1) the US was propping up Boeing too, and 2) the message seems to have been that the US would be there for GB on trade when Europe wasn't. Apparently not so much.

 

[bdavro23]

Agreed; this Airbus retribution will probably get ironed out on Tuesday, although I find it odd for a few reasons: 1) the US was propping up Boeing too, and 2) the message seems to have been that the US would be there for GB on trade when Europe wasn't. Apparently not so much.

There is a complaint with the WTO right now against the US and Boeing, similar to the EU and Airbus. Its about 6 months or so behind, so the EU cant retaliate directly against these tariffs. By the time their case is heard, who knows what the world will look like. 6 months is an eternity these days...

 

[Bromley]

Them: "I like your suit".
Me (wearing a sportcoat and odd trousers from the UK): "Actually, as per Chapter 61, Section 3a of the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (2019) Revision 12..."

 

[Mark from Plano]

Isn’t Manton a Trump admin insider?

Not in about 18 months now.

 

[dieworkwear]

Has anyone had an overcoat made by Solito, by chance? There are a few photos on IG, but curious to hear if anyone has first-hand experience. I have a bit of fabric I'd like to use for an overcoat project and I'm wondering if I should go with Steed or Solito.

 

[bourbonbasted]

Planning to be in Italy next year and thinking of getting something made up. In typical Ameritrash fashion, I'm only in Florence for a few days. Does anyone have experience with a Florentine tailor doing a basted and/or forward fitting within four days? I'm assuming I'll get a firm answer upon request, but would love to know if anyone's attempted something similar. To that end, open to recommendations for a tailor who could accommodate such a goofy schedule. Right now I'm leaning towards Liverano, but am open for suggestions, knowing a lot of tailors might not even be open to the hassle.

 

[lordsuperb]

Planning to be in Italy next year and thinking of getting something made up. In typical Ameritrash fashion, I'm only in Florence for a few days. Does anyone have experience with a Florentine tailor doing a basted and/or forward fitting within four days? I'm assuming I'll get a firm answer upon request, but would love to know if anyone's attempted something similar. To that end, open to recommendations for a tailor who could accommodate such a goofy schedule. Right now I'm leaning towards Liverano, but am open for suggestions, knowing a lot of tailors might not even be open to the hassle.

Is there any way you can fly into Florence to start your trip and fly home from Florence to end it? I stopped by F. Caraceni during my stay in italy and they mentioned they would need at least 2 weeks to do a baste and forward fitting. If you're going to put that that kind of pressure on a tailor I would take this approach.

 

[bourbonbasted]

Is there any way you can fly into Florence to start your trip and fly home from Florence to end it? I stopped by F. Caraceni during my stay in italy and they mentioned they would need at least 2 weeks to do a baste and forward fitting. If you're going to put that that kind of pressure on a tailor I would take this approach.

Potentially. It's a work trip, so technically the freedom is there, but I dunno how my schedule will shake out between now and then.

I assumed your experience was the standard, so not surprised to hear it. Regardless, I'm only in Italy for 9 days, so I wouldn't even meet Caraceni's mandates.

 

[jonathanS]

Planning to be in Italy next year and thinking of getting something made up. In typical Ameritrash fashion, I'm only in Florence for a few days. Does anyone have experience with a Florentine tailor doing a basted and/or forward fitting within four days? I'm assuming I'll get a firm answer upon request, but would love to know if anyone's attempted something similar. To that end, open to recommendations for a tailor who could accommodate such a goofy schedule. Right now I'm leaning towards Liverano, but am open for suggestions, knowing a lot of tailors might not even be open to the hassle.

Liverano probably

 

[The Chai]

Liverano probably

Isn’t there supposedly a years waiting list for liverano

 

[Mark from Plano]

Potentially. It's a work trip, so technically the freedom is there, but I dunno how my schedule will shake out between now and then.

I assumed your experience was the standard, so not surprised to hear it. Regardless, I'm only in Italy for 9 days, so I wouldn't even meet Caraceni's mandates.

You really won’t know until you ask. I had a trip to Europe a couple of years ago and wanted to try Rubinacci. I arranged to meet with them in London for measuring and selecting fabric on a suit and a sport coat. A week later they had a basted fitting ready for me when I got to Naples. But it was all prearranged so they knew well in advance of my trip.

Point being that a week or so is quick to be sure, but maybe not impossible. You just need to ask. I suspect that it also helps if you select a fabric they have on hand.

Another option may be to see if there’s a Florentine tailor that travels to your area. They can bring the basted fitting to you.

Good luck!

 

[Fonz4]

Has anyone had an overcoat made by Solito, by chance? There are a few photos on IG, but curious to hear if anyone has first-hand experience. I have a bit of fabric I'd like to use for an overcoat project and I'm wondering if I should go with Steed or Solito.

On an italian menswear/lifestyle magazine named Arbiter, lawyer Maresca stated that Solito is the best coat maker in Naples.

 

[reidd]

On my trip to Naples last winter my tailor (first jacket with them) was able to accomplish a basted fitting within 24 hours and a second fitting another 72 hours after that. They sent me the final product in the mail about a month later and the result was fantastic. Schedule permitting, I doubt Liverano would have a problem with it from a technical standpoint. I did email my tailor over a month in advance to ask if they could do it so they could budget the time for me, which they graciously did. I also showed up with cloth in hand at the initial meeting so they could start cutting immediately

With regards to Solito, I haven't seen their overcoats in person but what they have posted on Instagram looks excellent.

 

[bourbonbasted]

You really won’t know until you ask. I had a trip to Europe a couple of years ago and wanted to try Rubinacci. I arranged to meet with them in London for measuring and selecting fabric on a suit and a sport coat. A week later they had a basted fitting ready for me when I got to Naples. But it was all prearranged so they knew well in advance of my trip.

Point being that a week or so is quick to be sure, but maybe not impossible. You just need to ask. I suspect that it also helps if you select a fabric they have on hand.

Another option may be to see if there’s a Florentine tailor that travels to your area. They can bring the basted fitting to you.

Good luck!

Yeah, I need to just shoot some emails around and see what's possible. I appreciate the insight!