Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[The Chai]

Yes. We're flipping the green Smith Solaro and doing it on the reverse blue side.

Yeah I’d recognise that cut and lapel anywhere

 

[poorsod]

This is not the most appropriate thread to ask but I don't know where to ask otherwise.

Does anyone know of any maker (either RTW, MTM or bespoke) doing something in the line of the Arnys Forestière?

A jacket (not a piece of knitwear) meant to be be slouchy, unpadded and most probably uncanvassed, with country connotations but wearable in the city. Most italian mid-tier makers (and Loro Piana too) make uncanvassed jackets but they normally retain a classic sportcoat desing.

I am aware of Berluti doing a repro of the original Arnys and also know the Teba jacket, but I'd like to know of alternatives. Mandarin collars, shirt cuffs, etc.

I bought a linen Forestiere jacket on sale from Berluti and they were able to give me old Arnys buttons. I prefer the linen to the corduroys which don’t seem to look right on me. One day I hope to get a tailor to copy the coat. I think it is a nontrivial exercise because of the details of the construction.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I bought a linen Forestiere jacket on sale from Berluti and they were able to give me old Arnys buttons. I prefer the linen to the corduroys which don’t seem to look right on me. One day I hope to get a tailor to copy the coat. I think it is a nontrivial exercise because of the details of the construction.

Thanks for your comment. I guess the construction is not canvassed, is it? Can you elaborate about the construction? The French factory that makes it should be still around...

 

[reidd]

Just commissioned a Polo coat. All the usual details: DB, peak lapel, half belted back with two buttons, flapped envelope pockets.

Went with the Bactrian Babycamel from the Loro Piana coatings book about 550 grams I think. I'm a little worried it will be a little too light weight but my tailor assured me that camel wears warmer than wool. I did note that the cashmeres in this book were of a similar weight.

Has anyone used this cloth before?

 

[bdavro23]

Just commissioned a Polo coat. All the usual details: DB, peak lapel, half belted back with two buttons, flapped envelope pockets.

Went with the Bactrian Babycamel from the Loro Piana coatings book about 550 grams I think. I'm a little worried it will be a little too light weight but my tailor assured me that camel wears warmer than wool. I did note that the cashmeres in this book were of a similar weight.

Has anyone used this cloth before?

I made a coat in this last year in the Denim Blue/ Off-navy color, in DB configuration. It wears warmer than wool in the same weight in my opinion, but feels very light. I dont know if it wears as warm as cashmere, but its probably close. I should note that the cheapest 100% cashmere in that book is over double the price, some are 3 times the price of the Camel. The difference in feel and warmth between the Camel and Cashmere does not warrant such a price premium in my opinion and you'll be very happy with the cloth.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I visited Joseph Genuardi's studio in Hoboken for a final fitting yesterday. Both pieces were satisfactory and ready for delivery. I was going to spend the rest of the day in Manhattan, so Mr. Genuardi will ship them to me on Monday.

The blue Fresco suit came out very striking. Mr. Genuardi did about as much as one can with my sack-of-potatoes physique.

Mr. Genuardi seemed particularly pleased with the brown wool-linen-silk-mohair hopsack sport coat. It has much less structure than the suit jacket, but the fabric has ample body and a rather interesting feel.

 

[Fonz4]

I visited Joseph Genuardi's studio in Hoboken for a final fitting yesterday. Both pieces were satisfactory and ready for delivery. I was going to spend the rest of the day in Manhattan, so Mr. Genuardi will ship them to me on Monday.

View attachment 1240661

The blue Fresco suit came out very striking. Mr. Genuardi did about as much as one can with my sack-of-potatoes physique.

View attachment 1240662

Mr. Genuardi seemed particularly pleased with the brown wool-linen-silk-mohair hopsack sport coat. It has much less structure than the suit jacket, but the fabric has ample body and a rather interesting feel.

GREAT JOB!

 

[Bromley]

Those look great.

 

[bdavro23]

I visited Joseph Genuardi's studio in Hoboken for a final fitting yesterday. Both pieces were satisfactory and ready for delivery. I was going to spend the rest of the day in Manhattan, so Mr. Genuardi will ship them to me on Monday.

View attachment 1240661

The blue Fresco suit came out very striking. Mr. Genuardi did about as much as one can with my sack-of-potatoes physique.

View attachment 1240662

Mr. Genuardi seemed particularly pleased with the brown wool-linen-silk-mohair hopsack sport coat. It has much less structure than the suit jacket, but the fabric has ample body and a rather interesting feel.

These look great and I am particularly fond of the lapel shape on them. I hope you enjoy wearing them!

 

[IJReilly]

Currently thinking about fall trousers in a lighter shade of brown, khaki or stone. I wear our flannels so quickly that I am going to search for something in a heavy cotton. Any of the experts here have any recommendation of what fabrics to look for? I want to be prepared before going to my tailor.

 

[dieworkwear]

Currently thinking about fall trousers in a lighter shade of brown, khaki or stone. I wear our flannels so quickly that I am going to search for something in a heavy cotton. Any of the experts here have any recommendation of what fabrics to look for? I want to be prepared before going to my tailor.

If you like the drape of flannel/ wool, but want something more durable, I really like whipcord. Holland & Sherry's Dakota book has some nice options.

Otherwise, if Stoffa has your trouser pattern/ measurements, they have some excellent "peached cottons," which is basically like a brushed cotton hopsack. If you go bespoke, Brisbane & Moss is popular for cotton.

 

[IJReilly]

If you like the drape of flannel/ wool, but want something more durable, I really like whipcord. Holland & Sherry's Dakota book has some nice options.

Otherwise, if Stoffa has your trouser pattern/ measurements, they have some excellent "peached cottons," which is basically like a brushed cotton hopsack. If you go bespoke, Brisbane & Moss is popular for cotton.

Thank you, exactly the kind of advice I was looking for.

And yes, I love flannel but my thighs just destroy them. I’m lucky if they last one winter, which makes them an expensive indulgence.

 

[brax]

I visited Joseph Genuardi's studio in Hoboken for a final fitting yesterday. Both pieces were satisfactory and ready for delivery. I was going to spend the rest of the day in Manhattan, so Mr. Genuardi will ship them to me on Monday.

View attachment 1240661

The blue Fresco suit came out very striking. Mr. Genuardi did about as much as one can with my sack-of-potatoes physique.

View attachment 1240662

Mr. Genuardi seemed particularly pleased with the brown wool-linen-silk-mohair hopsack sport coat. It has much less structure than the suit jacket, but the fabric has ample body and a rather interesting feel.

Both look great. Congratulations. On your next commission, maybe see how a lower buttoning point would look. Not positive that it would look better but it’s the one thing I might experiment with. Again, great job.

 

[brax]

Here’s the second piece that will be ready for my first fitting next week. It’s LL linen.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Both look great. Congratulations. On your next commission, maybe see how a lower buttoning point would look. Not positive that it would look better but it’s the one thing I might experiment with. Again, great job.

I commissioned a corresponding cooler weather suit and blazer at that visit and intend for them to have a different style then my first commission, so perhaps that will be one of the differentiating elements. The suit will be in grey Holland & Sherry Dakota and the blazer in navy Bateman Ogden Apollo (# AA10). (Both will have peak lapels, but a more structured, broadly 'English' look and the blazer will have a hook vent)

Here’s the second piece that will be ready for my first fitting next week. It’s LL linen.
View attachment 1241404

That's magnificent! I especially like the profile of the lapels, which seem to play nicely with the shape of the shoulders. The choice of cloth is impressive and I wish I were up to choosing something that daring. I've only just graduated from plain, matching linings to moderately striking paisley ones, but maybe I'll do a mild glen plaid some day. That check is a pattern that at once seems unimaginably wild to me, but that I also can't get out of my head and might one day just need to have something in it.