Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Epicure]

I posted about the coat below in the making some time ago. I cannot remember when. I also made the disclaimer in my original post that this coat is not truly bespoke, as no fittings were involved. But stylistically, it is my own concept of a classic, full length trench coat. The coat is rubber-bonded cotton, with hand glued and taped seams, rendering the garment impermeable to the penetration of any water. It is a beast for inclement weather, as I can attest from my first wearing last week. The photos here actually show a remake. While I provided correct measurements the first time, there were significant diversions which resulted in poor fit. Because the mistakes were on the maker's side, the remake was at no cost to me. I am now happy with the fit and stylistic details, mostly my own, a new pattern set having been created for me to craft this coat. I thought it worthwhile to show the final outcome.

 

[reidd]

If I were to go for a Polo coat, I would probably just ask my tailor to copy that photo of the Duke of Windsor as much as possible. Hard to get better than that IMO and his is likely in an historical context, the most true to form. Love that long lapel line and the overall slightly drapey/slouchy look. Functionally, the lack of a breast pocket might be a little annoying, but the overall aesthetic is improved by its omission I think.

 

[steveabdn]

I had a very very very pleasant experience this year with The Bridge Coat by PWVC designed with Simon Crompton. Even if RTW it fits so great that seems made bespoke for me.

Me too! Love that coat, although, I’m sending mine back to get 1.5” taken off the sleeves

 

[Fonz4]

Me too! Love that coat, although, I’m sending mine back to get 1.5” taken off the sleeves

A very minor adjustment. If one finds something like that it could even be better than making bespoke with unpredictable outcomes.

 

[Lorenzodm]

Polo coat
Specs:
Cappotto Polo coat
Tessuti: Fox Brothers camel coating 3.5 metres (FS479 A1125/1928)
Doppio petto 6x2 (2 bottoni a chiusura)
Bottoni 36mm
Corno di bufalo, marrone biondi
Rever a lancia
Maniche con risvolto de 8 CM
Martingala de 8 CM (2 bottoni)
Tasschino ‘barchetta’
Tasche a toppa con pattine de 8 CM
Fondo della tasche forma rotonda (come nella foto)
Spacco centrale con bottoni
Impunture nella; rever, risvolto, martingala, tasche, taschino.
Foderata (bemberg)
Lunghezza; al ginocchio

All bespoke everything with fox brothers cloth.
hoes Antonio Meccariello chukka.

 

[Punt]

I like the one made by alo, also the hand stitching is really nice and should last...

 

[Lorenzodm]

Adored by the likes of tacky tiemaker gianni ceruti

 

[zr3rs]

If the polo coat is fitted snugly, it will only work with a suit underneath in my experience. It will look somewhat off if worn only with a sweater. Therefore I prefer a slightly oversize coat with generous shoulder and waist. In that case, you might as well get it OTR if it has the details.

 

[dieworkwear]

Alo's coat doesn't look like a polo coat to me. It just looks like a tan double-breasted with an Ulster collar.

Also starting to think hand-picked stitching does look a bit too faint for this style.

I really think polos benefit from having a stronger punch in the swelled seam (maybe machine sewn) and a dropped buttoning point. If you put the buttoning point at the waist, you almost lose the louche effect of a polo. Polos feel like they should be loose.

Dropped buttoning point, loose fit, punchy swelled seam:

 

[Punt]

Adored by the likes of tacky tiemaker gianni ceruti

I have a few ties of him and they are actually not bad ... but I ordered them way before all the hassle

 

[Punt]

Alo's coat doesn't look like a polo coat to me. It just looks like a tan double-breasted with an Ulster collar.

Also starting to think hand-picked stitching does look a bit too faint for this style.

I really think polos benefit from having a stronger punch in the swelled seam (maybe machine sewn) and a dropped buttoning point. If you put the buttoning point at the waist, you almost lose the louche effect of a polo. Polos feel like they should be loose.

Dropped buttoning point, loose fit, punchy swelled seam:


View attachment 1223545

View attachment 1223546

View attachment 1223551

Maybe you right, but if oversized and machine finish, RTW seems to be perfect ..

Maybe order a nice fitting peacoat for the credits you have

 

[Fonz4]

Polo coat
Specs:
Cappotto Polo coat
Tessuti: Fox Brothers camel coating 3.5 metres (FS479 A1125/1928)
Doppio petto 6x2 (2 bottoni a chiusura)
Bottoni 36mm
Corno di bufalo, marrone biondi
Rever a lancia
Maniche con risvolto de 8 CM
Martingala de 8 CM (2 bottoni)
Tasschino ‘barchetta’
Tasche a toppa con pattine de 8 CM
Fondo della tasche forma rotonda (come nella foto)
Spacco centrale con bottoni
Impunture nella; rever, risvolto, martingala, tasche, taschino.
Foderata (bemberg)
Lunghezza; al ginocchio

All bespoke everything with fox brothers cloth.
hoes Antonio Meccariello chukka.

Why did you write in Italian? Can you translate for everyone here?
Nice coat btw, I would only change the gorge, I like it lower on this coat. Who is the tailor?

 

[dieworkwear]

Why did you write in Italian? Can you translate for everyone here?
Nice coat btw, I would only change the gorge, I like it lower on this coat. Who is the tailor?

IMO, there's something about the coat that doesn't look polo-ish. It's a nice coat, but looks more like your standard double-breasted.

I think it needs sportier pockets. A polo coat is originally a sports garment anyway, not a dress coat. Some examples of polo pocket styles

Envelope:

Patched with piping at the top

Not really a polo pocket, but notably this strange pocket on Foo's great coat, which was discussed at length in his old thread. Apparently not an uncommon style in Italy

 

[dieworkwear]

I think this coat from @Despos is one of the best I've seen in the bespoke world. It feels like a polo. I would probably get slightly more upwards pointing peaks, but all the other details seem to there: a dropped buttoning point, obviously swelled edges (maybe these are machine sewn?), and the right, sporty pocket style.

This was made for another client, but is being worn here by @Patrick R. Hence why the pockets are asymmetrical on the two sides. But it's still a fabulous looking coat.

 

[Mr. Six]

What length are you thinking of?