Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[dieworkwear]

Another issue is whether hand-picked stitching would produce a strong enough look for a swelled edge on this kind of coat. I don't know if a machine stitch might be better.

 

[ThePetros]

Another issue is whether hand-picked stitching would produce a strong enough look for a swelled edge on this kind of coat. I don't know if a machine stitch might be better.



View attachment 1223017

100% on this. On a serious note, this is a coat that looks better machine stitched. I only know this because my late grandmother had one that was handstitched by her shop.

The lines were too faint to make a bold statement, especially as time goes on, these will only blend it and lose their punch.

Don't make a mistake and go for tweed though. It's lovely, but the camel hair will always win the battle!

 

[dieworkwear]

100% on this. On a serious note, this is a coat that looks better machine stitched. I only know this because my late grandmother had one that was handstitched by her shop.

The lines were too faint to make a bold statement, especially as time goes on, these will only blend it and lose their punch.

Don't make a mistake and go for tweed though. It's lovely, but the camel hair will always win the battle!

Am I wrong for thinking that RTW is just as good, if not better, than bespoke in this case? I mean, it's a loose-fitting coat and can probably be adjusted. And almost all the good details are in RTW. Whereas, when I see bespoke versions, there's often something that looks off to me.

I have a coat credit with Steed, so I think I'm going to get something. But maybe a different coat style would be better?

 

[heldentenor]

I'm very partial to the Ulster collar. Out of curiosity, do you think you'll wear it closed or open more often?

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm very partial to the Ulster collar. Out of curiosity, do you think you'll wear it closed or open more often?

Almost certainly open.

 

[ThePetros]

Am I wrong for thinking that RTW is just as good, if not better, than bespoke in this case? I mean, it's a loose-fitting coat and can probably be adjusted. And almost all the good details are in RTW. Whereas, when I see bespoke versions, there's often something that looks off to me.

I have a coat credit with Steed, so I think I'm going to get something. But maybe a different coat style would be better?

Depends on how loose you want it, really. The traditional one, is really quite loose. Many others prefer something fitted. To be honest, I've seen people pick up Hart Schaffner Marx coats RTW that is right on the money on the shoulders and do minimal alterations to it.

 

[Bromley]

I think I'm going to commission a bespoke polo coat, either at the end of this year or beginning of next. Curious if people have strong opinions on what should go into a polo coat.

Some photos, and then some quick thoughts

View attachment 1222994

View attachment 1222996

View attachment 1222997

View attachment 1222998

View attachment 1222999

View attachment 1222995






1. Collar: Most polo coats seem to be made with either an Ulster collar or a peak lapel. A few years ago, Michael Alden had a video that polo coats should always be made with an Ulster collar because it's an inherently casual coat. But then noted that Yves Saint Laurent wore peak lapel polo coats in Paris.

I don't have strong views on the origins/ coherent combination type stuff, but it seems to me that they've been traditionally made both ways. And I think of the peak lapel version as both more handsome and closer to the RL aesthetic, which I grew up admiring. So kind of leaning towards a peak lapel with no belly.

2. Back: I think it'll just be a Martingale belt with a single vent. I don't know if I should specify anything more than this. I remember Foo's Martingale belt being a bit wide on his Rubi great coat, so maybe?

3. Edges: Definitely swelled edges. Including on the envelope pockets.

4. Buttons: I was thinking of doing a 6x2 in a keystone formation.

5. Outbreast pocket: Lots of variation here. I've seen polos with no pocket, a welted pocket, and even flapped pocket. I'm leaning towards welted pocket with no flap.

6. Cuffs: Turnback cuffs

7. The other stuff: The above feels fairly standard, but this is where I'm curious if anyone has thoughts. I can't remember what my tailor calls it -- may have been "walker coat?" But there's a button placement that basically lowers the buttoning point so it's a little lower the waist. I'm thinking about getting the same on this coat. You can see the same placement on many of the coats above. this seems to do a couple of things. One, it elongates the lapel line, which I think looks rather nice. And two, for lapels with no belly, it just looks sharper and avoids the stubby lapel look.

Basically, the ideal polo coat to me seems like the last photo above, the one in a darker brown color and with most of the details I mentioned above. But I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on this.

Siiiiick.

 

[heldentenor]

Almost certainly open.

If it's going to be open pretty often, then I think your impulse toward peak lapels and a lower buttoning stance/lapel roll will yield a seriously dramatic-looking coat. Intrigued to see pics when it's done. Other than Vox's "guards' coat," I don't think I've seen a Steed overcoat before. Just took a look at the Steed instagram. Edwin made himself a polo coat that looks awesome, with more rounded peak lapels.

 

[Mark from Plano]

I’ve seen Edwin’s coat in person and it is amazing. I believe that it started life as a Vox commission but then they changed directions (or something, I don’t exactly recall) and so Edwin finished and kept it for himself. It’s really great.

 

[dieworkwear]

Yea if I did a polo, it would be that with straight lapels and a lowered buttoning point. Basically to get a straighter, longer lapel line

 

[Fonz4]

Am I wrong for thinking that RTW is just as good, if not better, than bespoke in this case? I mean, it's a loose-fitting coat and can probably be adjusted. And almost all the good details are in RTW. Whereas, when I see bespoke versions, there's often something that looks off to me.

I have a coat credit with Steed, so I think I'm going to get something. But maybe a different coat style would be better?

I had a very very very pleasant experience this year with The Bridge Coat by PWVC designed with Simon Crompton. Even if RTW it fits so great that seems made bespoke for me.
If you find a RTW polo coat, made on high standards, with all the details you want (and I think you can with a little research), and it fits in the most important area there is no reason to go bespoke for this piece.
You can ask Edesim for example. He made one in H&S cashmere a couple of years ago, conceived with Fabio Attanasio. It was priced 1500€.

 

[dieworkwear]

I had a very very very pleasant experience this year with The Bridge Coat by PWVC designed with Simon Crompton. Even if RTW it fits so great that seems made bespoke for me.
If you find a RTW polo coat, made on high standards, with all the details you want (and I think you can with a little research), and it fits in the most important area there is no reason to go bespoke for this piece.
You can ask Edesim for example. He made one in H&S cashmere a couple of years ago, conceived with Fabio Attanasio. It was priced 1500€.

1500 euros is impressive.

Pedro over at The Hogtown Rake published something a while ago about a custom bal coat offered around $1000. I thought it looked pretty nice. Don't know anything about the tailor, but since Balmacaans are designed to fit big anyway, I thought it was an interesting offer

Sebastian Richard balmacaan and MTO offer

A hand-tailored overcoat exclusively for Hogtown Rake readers.

www.thehogtownrake.com

I already have a deposit down for an overcoat at Steed. Looking at Edwin's coat, I'm feeling a bit more sure I'll go with a polo now.

That Permanent Style x Private White Bridge coat looked amazing, btw. Very envious.

 

[Mr. Six]

Stating the obvious, but one benefit of going with Edwin, rather than RTW, is that you get to pick the fabric. Maybe there's a RTW maker out there that has exactly the weight, composition, and color you want, but if not, might as well get Edwin to make it for you. I agree with all of your choices so far, including the straighter lapels and peak rather than Ulster.

 

[lordsuperb]

Some more iterations

 

[Bromley]

Light colored buttons are everything to me on this type of coat.