Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[clothingfun]

I totally agree. Higher price is not a guarantee of better quality.

Hello and I hope everyone is well. Good points are being made by all. @ThePetros I am sincerely sorry to hear you had a poor experience. I have some fairly extensive experience with different types of bespoke clothing (e.g. footwear, suits, shirts, etc.) from various different makers. From experience I agree with your comment above that a higher price doesn’t guarantee better quality.

However, also from experience, I can say with confidence that “bespoke” at a significantly lower price point, which is what CAD offers, pretty much guarantees a problem somewhere. In your case it looks like it was customer service. I am currently in the process of having a sport coat and pants made by Dege and Skinner. After extensive research I went with them for my first Savile Row garment for a variety of reasons. An important one however was because their price point is in line with a true Savile Row tailoring house and the experience I had at my first appointment with them reflected this.

The most important thing is that you are happy with the final product. However, the experience does leave a bad taste in your mouth. Once again sorry to hear you weren’t treated right.

 

[Texasmade]

I’m glad you got a suit to your liking but it’s unfortunate it took that much fighting with them to get it done. It’s also nice to see someone write a review that isn’t affiliated with CatD or a fluff piece.

 

[Thomson]

I am currently in the process of having a sport coat and pants made by Dege and Skinner. After extensive research I went with them for my first Savile Row garment for a variety of reasons.

Just out of interest, what made you go with D&S?

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

5k GBP for a suit... sometimes I'm happy that I live in Poland. I'm paying equivalent of 1k GBP for a two piece suit and I'm pretty satisfied with the results.

 

[reidd]

Just out of interest, what made you go with D&S?

I'm quite interested in your answer as well. Although I haven't done that much research into SR tailors, I agree D&S do look very appealing. A very conservative house for sure; in a great way. They don't seem to get a whole lot of attention on SF though. I love those one button jackets with the bellied lapels.. more English as tea and crumpets.

 

[usctrojans31]

I'm quite interested in your answer as well. Although I haven't done that much research into SR tailors, I agree D&S do look very appealing. A very conservative house for sure; in a great way. They don't seem to get a whole lot of attention on SF though. I love those one button jackets with the bellied lapels.. more English as tea and crumpets.

The group look on here is generally more of the moment, i.e. Neapolitan, even though many folks won't admit it. Very structured coats seldom get the love.

If I were to go with an English tailor, I'd go with Craig Featherstone. His work at Henry Poole was terrific, and since going out on his own, he has shown some smashing work.

 

[Texasmade]

The group look on here is generally more of the moment, i.e. Neapolitan, even though many folks won't admit it. Very structured coats seldom get the love.

If I were to go with an English tailor, I'd go with Craig Featherstone. His work at Henry Poole was terrific, and since going out on his own, he has shown some smashing work.

Does he travel on a consistent basis to the US?

 

[usctrojans31]

Does he travel on a consistent basis to the US?

When he and I last spoke, which was last summer, he was looking to try to get to NYC twice a year. I'm not sure where things stand. He's usually very responsive, so I recommend dropping him a line.

 

[clothingfun]

Hello once again and I hope everyone is doing well. Thank you to all for your interest. I will try to explain my reasoning for D&S without rambling on too much because I’m sure I could easily do so!

In short, given my age and personal clothing/style preferences I was looking for very classic, structured, authentic British tailoring (FYI I live in the U.S.) I found that D&S really fit the description the best. Granted, I had only seen their clothing in photos but it just really seemed to have the “look” I was after. I also was impressed with their history. Over 150 years old and still family owned. Admittedly, having something with their label I found appealing. Sort of like owning a piece of history.

Additionally, they have a very small number of employees and therefore I found it reassuring that there wouldn’t be who knows how many different people working on my garments. In fact, after doing my research, I had a specific coat maker in mind and at my first trunk show appointment they happily honored my request.

I narrowed it down to three houses that I contacted. All three were wonderful and I have nothing bad to say about anyone. However, as I mentioned, I have previous bespoke experience and my phone conversations with their head cutter Nick De’Ath (who took my measurements and will be conducting all my fittings) just really impressed me. For lack of a better term, it was one of those “vibes” that you can’t explain where I knew we would have a good working relationship and he and his team could deliver what I wanted. Obviously I have not received a finished garment yet so who knows how this will end up. However, I’m feeling confident there will be a happy ending.

Lastly, several months ago I posted a question about traveling tailors. The replies, both in the thread and privately, from @Texasmade and @dieworkwear were exceptionally helpful and helped me make my decision. I just wanted to give credit to those two gentlemen for sharing their experiences and expertise.

Well, so much for not rambling! Thanks for asking and I hope this satisfies everyone’s curiosity regarding my choice of D&S.

 

[Thomson]

Thanks a lot @clothingfun

 

[Punt]

You look like a tall guy, isn't that coat too short? Or is it like a peacoat? Hard to tell with the light from the back.

Slightly longer peacoat... don’t like the whole short, condom fit, tailoring - which luckily almost no one likes at sf

 

[Dannefalk]

Slightly longer peacoat... don’t like the whole short, condom fit, tailoring - which luckily almost no one likes at sf

In that case! I thought it was a super short coat!

Btw, just received my Bntailor coat, will try to snap a few picks and share!

 

[Punt]

In that case! I thought it was a super short coat!

Btw, just received my Bntailor coat, will try to snap a few picks and share!

Yes please !! Always love their stuff

 

[dieworkwear]

I think I'm going to commission a bespoke polo coat, either at the end of this year or beginning of next. Curious if people have strong opinions on what should go into a polo coat.

Some photos, and then some quick thoughts

1. Collar: Most polo coats seem to be made with either an Ulster collar or a peak lapel. A few years ago, Michael Alden had a video that polo coats should always be made with an Ulster collar because it's an inherently casual coat. But then noted that Yves Saint Laurent wore peak lapel polo coats in Paris.

I don't have strong views on the origins/ coherent combination type stuff, but it seems to me that they've been traditionally made both ways. And I think of the peak lapel version as both more handsome and closer to the RL aesthetic, which I grew up admiring. So kind of leaning towards a peak lapel with no belly.

2. Back: I think it'll just be a Martingale belt with a single vent. I don't know if I should specify anything more than this. I remember Foo's Martingale belt being a bit wide on his Rubi great coat, so maybe?

3. Edges: Definitely swelled edges. Including on the envelope pockets.

4. Buttons: I was thinking of doing a 6x2 in a keystone formation.

5. Outbreast pocket: Lots of variation here. I've seen polos with no pocket, a welted pocket, and even flapped pocket. I'm leaning towards welted pocket with no flap.

6. Cuffs: Turnback cuffs

7. The other stuff: The above feels fairly standard, but this is where I'm curious if anyone has thoughts. I can't remember what my tailor calls it -- may have been "walker coat?" But there's a button placement that basically lowers the buttoning point so it's a little lower the waist. I'm thinking about getting the same on this coat. You can see the same placement on many of the coats above. this seems to do a couple of things. One, it elongates the lapel line, which I think looks rather nice. And two, for lapels with no belly, it just looks sharper and avoids the stubby lapel look.

Basically, the ideal polo coat to me seems like the last photo above, the one in a darker brown color and with most of the details I mentioned above. But I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on this.

 

[cbusguy]

no, strong opinions. i've always liked the look. especially when they're made out of a heavy tweed. i think you've basically nailed the style. based on the pictures you posted, i like peak lapels and no breast pocket. maybe a removable lining if you want to wear something lighter underneath

polo women's, but looks nice

ben silver