Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Easily Amused]

Rarely, if ever, does a fabric really entice me. But I am strongly considering ordering a suit in this fabric:

A deep, charcoal-ish Green. I think it is rather stunning, and with a white/grey shirt with black tie, very smart.

Spring-Summer weight, Fall-Winter, or somewhere in between?

 

[ericgereghty]

Rarely, if ever, does a fabric really entice me. But I am strongly considering ordering a suit in this fabric:

A deep, charcoal-ish Green. I think it is rather stunning, and with a white/grey shirt with black tie, very smart.

Obviously not bespoke, but some SM'ers are trying to drum up interest for it to be a part of next S/S offerings..

 

[Newcomer]

I saw that at Pitti. It’s a veeeeeery subtle green. Not in your face at all.

It is extremely striking. In sunlight, when you looked at it, could you tell it was green?

Spring-Summer weight, Fall-Winter, or somewhere in between?

250g Scabal Linen, Fabric No. 802258.

So, decidedly summer weight.

Obviously not bespoke, but some SM'ers are trying to drum up interest for it to be a part of next S/S offerings..

I kind of like the formal-feel of this iteration - which is something that Chris, I imagine, would handle very well.

Personally, the juxtaposition between the formal styling and the fabric is very striking. I can imagine wearing something like this to summer evening events. S&M would look more informal, IMO, and that is something I am less interested in.

(Stated otherwise, I know that this is a natural pair with Neapolitan, soft tailoring, but I think that the formality makes the suit even more striking).

 

[UrbanComposition]

It is extremely striking. In sunlight, when you looked at it, could you tell it was green?

Yes, but still very subdued. It’s definitely darker than British Racing Green, if that helps at all.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Similar to this:

It’s called British Columbia Rail Dark Green on one site

 

[Despos]

Rarely, if ever, does a fabric really entice me. But I am strongly considering ordering a suit in this fabric:

Here to support you in this endeavor. The cloth and color are compatible with your intent and purpose for this suit. The color works well with your complexion.
Now, if you will excuse me, will depart this thread to make an espresso!

 

[Despos]

Making a velvet jacket in this shade of dark, dark green for a client this fall.
Made this color for my self in the 80's in Holland & Sherry pure cashmere jacketing. One of my favorite jackets ever.

 

[Newcomer]

Here to support you in this endeavor. The cloth and color are compatible with your intent and purpose for this suit. The color works well with your complexion.
Now, if you will excuse me, will depart this thread to make an espresso!

Sometimes, Chris, you can be an awful influence. I'll mull it over, but I have a feeling I could be adding something else to the unplanned liabilities.

Have you seen anything else kind of like this? Seems like a pretty unique color to me (well, at least pretty unique to get right).

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I just came from the basted fitting of my sport coat and fitting of one of my waistcoats at John Di Pietro's shop. (Mercifully, it was air conditioned, because, as the song goes, hot as Hell in Philadelphia and I had certainly warmed up in the short walk from the subway platform at Oregon to his shop)

I had thought that the prior fitting was the basted one, but maybe should have been called a 'rough' fitting as it barely looked like a jacket, whereas this time the jacket looked more like what I'd expect at a basted fitting. Mr. Di Pietro made a few small adjustments and checked the length of the sleeves, but most of the fit was good already. The sleeves were tacked on after I took my picture. The jacket feels very substantial and I'm looking forward to wearing it in its completed form.

I regret that my dumb, grubby, nubby hands and hill-dwarf arms impede most of the lapels, but they did look quite good and I was pleased with their four inch breadth. (Recall that at my fitting with Mr. Genuardi, we mutually agreed that they needed to be widened)

One thing that differs here from my fitting with Mr. Genuardi is that the lining and pockets, interior and exterior, are already in place, although unfinished. The buttons and some other handwork remain to be done.

He also fitted me for one of my waistcoats. (It was pinned closed prior to this shot) This was less complex than the jacket, of course, and little had to be done; he checked that the fit wasn't too snug (He thought that it was a rather close fit, but I'm presently still recovering from a vacation, so told him to make allowances for that) ensured that it was a good length and that I was pleased with the piece, which I was. My awful limbs are in the way again, but it should still be possible to see that the notch lapels have a ample belly to them, which I quite liked. The waistcoat is self-backed and lined with a handsome brown satin.

After this he'll add the buttonholes and buttons as well as finish the pockets, which will be jetted. After the buttonholes are sewn, we'll sort out where to put a sort of auxiliary hole between the ordinary buttons to put the end of my watch chain through and tacking in the lower left-hand pocket to keep the watch itself from shifting around too much in the pocket. (I'm making similar provision with Mr. Genuardi)

It seems that my accounts of his work have somehow filtered through to Mr. Di Pietro as he asked if I'd put the work that he'd done for me, "on Google or something like that." I explained about these posts and he thanked me for it. I hope that these garments turn out as well as I expect so that this little bit of promotion that I've done proves vindicated. (To say nothing of the brief discussion that we had about some future commissions that I have in mind)

 

[The Chai]

It is extremely striking. In sunlight, when you looked at it, could you tell it was green?



250g Scabal Linen, Fabric No. 802258.

So, decidedly summer weight.



I kind of like the formal-feel of this iteration - which is something that Chris, I imagine, would handle very well.

Personally, the juxtaposition between the formal styling and the fabric is very striking. I can imagine wearing something like this to summer evening events. S&M would look more informal, IMO, and that is something I am less interested in.

(Stated otherwise, I know that this is a natural pair with Neapolitan, soft tailoring, but I think that the formality makes the suit even more striking).

LOL I am already wary of getting my 310 gram linen made...250g seems very light and delicate...

 

[norMD]

It is extremely striking. In sunlight, when you looked at it, could you tell it was green?



250g Scabal Linen, Fabric No. 802258.

So, decidedly summer weight.



I kind of like the formal-feel of this iteration - which is something that Chris, I imagine, would handle very well.

Personally, the juxtaposition between the formal styling and the fabric is very striking. I can imagine wearing something like this to summer evening events. S&M would look more informal, IMO, and that is something I am less interested in.

(Stated otherwise, I know that this is a natural pair with Neapolitan, soft tailoring, but I think that the formality makes the suit even more striking).

I think the color of that suit is great, but I am unsure of having one in lightweigth linen. As I think the fabric might make it a summer only suit. Maybe a cotton cashmere blend could be more versatile.

 

[L.deJong]

Some adjustments where needed:

Jacket:
Armholes will be made a tad higher and a bit smaller.
Sleeves will be made one cm shorter
Some fullness at the back will be taken care off.

Trousers:
The waistband will be made smaller
Length one cm shorter, I suggested it myself... but looking back at the pictures I messaged him that it was perfetto

Fabric:
Town and English classics bunch from Dugdale

The suit is in!

The meastro was really happy with the end result. Some small things will be corrected in the next project.
Namely:
Trousers: widening the crotch area, widening upper legs a little bit,
Jacket: correcting sleeve pitch just a touch and lengthening the right sleeve.
Other than that: perfect!

I'm really happy with the end result:

 

[WhereNext]

Sometimes, Chris, you can be an awful influence. I'll mull it over, but I have a feeling I could be adding something else to the unplanned liabilities.

Have you seen anything else kind of like this? Seems like a pretty unique color to me (well, at least pretty unique to get right).

I've been looking a lot recently at brown, maroon, purple, and green fabrics for suits. I think, as you note (hopefully I'm not misinterpreting the gist of your point), there is more leeway with sportcoats as they can by nature be more adventurous. It seems that very dark versions with a hint of "richness" to the color would work best when getting something in a relatively non-traditional color for a suit (though I appreciate browns are not exactly non-traditional, they are somewhat less common nowadays, I think). Probably not something for the boardroom, but if you're in a position to be able to wear suits as a choice, suddenly some interesting options open up that don't risk looking TOO over the top.

 

[Newcomer]

LOL I am already wary of getting my 310 gram linen made...250g seems very light and delicate...

Yeah, 250g does seem very light. However, I've had light fabrics that have held up great, and light fabrics that have not held up so well. In this instance, it appears that Simon had it lined, which is probably what I would do. But the weight is a touch concerning.

I think the color of that suit is great, but I am unsure of having one in lightweigth linen. As I think the fabric might make it a summer only suit. Maybe a cotton cashmere blend could be more versatile.

For what it's worth, it's hot as Hades where I live for a good deal of the year. Summer suits get just about year-round wear.

I've been looking a lot recently at brown, maroon, purple, and green fabrics for suits. I think, as you note (hopefully I'm not misinterpreting the gist of your point), there is more leeway with sportcoats as they can by nature be more adventurous. It seems that very dark versions with a hint of "richness" to the color would work best when getting something in a relatively non-traditional color for a suit (though I appreciate browns are not exactly non-traditional, they are somewhat less common nowadays, I think). Probably not something for the boardroom, but if you're in a position to be able to wear suits as a choice, suddenly some interesting options open up that don't risk looking TOO over the top.

I wear suits daily, but have a good deal of leeway with the formality. The more I wear brown suits, the more I think that they are not really for me, unfortunately.

 

[The Chai]

Yeah, 250g does seem very light. However, I've had light fabrics that have held up great, and light fabrics that have not held up so well. In this instance, it appears that Simon had it lined, which is probably what I would do. But the weight is a touch concerning.



For what it's worth, it's hot as Hades where I live for a good deal of the year. Summer suits get just about year-round wear.



I wear suits daily, but have a good deal of leeway with the formality. The more I wear brown suits, the more I think that they are not really for me, unfortunately.

I had a lined linen suit at 250grams...I wouldn’t get another....this was many years ago when I first started bespoke and testing out tailors but lightweight linen is just flimsy for me. 250gram linen would make good shirting material imo