Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[reidd]

It's indeed pretty uncommon. Some of the stuff I have seen from the Madrid tailors (ie. Langa) do a lapel somewhat like this.

 

[takashi78]

Oh no.... now :foo: has to commission 2 dozen white shirts from Charvet to keep up.

JK man, really awesome journey you have there and thanks for sharing it here.
Although i would have spaced the shirt ordering just to nail down the fit more.

 

[kid1002]

New to this thread and new to bespoke (previously had only done SuSu MTM).

I commissioned a blazer/jacket earlier this month from Lancer Bespoke in Shanghai. I chose a very dark navy in mock leno weave pattern from the Fresco III book (510244). This color is somehow curiously gone from the HFW page for reasons unknown to me.

Here's my first fitting last night. Note that I have some seriously uneven shoulders, but Kenneth had done a pretty good job identifying that during measurements.

Some other alterations that'll be made known to me after last night:
- let out a bit of shoulders
- shorten sleeves
- take in some waist
- shorten jacket length

Under artificial light, this dark navy is extremely dark and looks almost black. So for those who's interested, I would urge you to check out Charles's article for a more accurate depiction of this fabric.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I had my basted fitting with Joseph Genuardi yesterday. (Somewhat regrettably, I neglected to get any pictures) The suit and sport coat were both quite handsome, even in at this stage of the process. The Schofield & Smith Brown Hopsack was especially striking; it's a roughly 10 ounce (280 gram) cloth and has a very rich, full-bodied feel that is more substantial than I had expected.

It was a fruitful fitting with a lot of refinement to the fit, in particular to the shoulders. Having worked with two tailors, I'm beginning to suspect that my shoulders are as near as it is possible for the human body to come to perfect squares. Mr. Genuardi told me that when he was cutting the pattern, he said of the shoulders, "wow, those are really square," and during the fitting, we found that they needed to be squared even more. When wearing every ready-to-wear garment that I've ever bought that has any structure, I've felt like I need to push the sleeveheads up and when I raised my arms had the motion stopped short by a sharp pulling against my upper arms. I demonstrated this during the fitting and I think that Mr. Genuardi has made the adjustments needed to account for it. The upper back also needed to be taken out a little as it felt tight and we agreed that the lapels needed to be wider than originally planned to better balance the look of the suit. Extra work might be needed later to adjust the trousers as they were designed to be work with suspenders, but lacked the buttons to fix them to at this point, so the fit couldn't quite be reliably tested.

My second fitting will probably be in late July.

 

[birdlives80]

I took delivery of the shirts from Mr. Nepomuceno on Wednesday, but while he was performing a last inspection, he noticed that one of the shirts had plastic, not mother-of-pearl buttons, which he apologized for and made arrangements to return with the correct buttons in the near future.

I shall not present more detailed images of the shirts and trousers, including some of me wearing them, with the tedious excess of a very strange, but otherwise dull and mediocre person. I've been very content with them, but I concede that my sensibilities are more sentimental than sophisticated and my sense of fit has been distorted by many years of very significant changes in weight stranding me with terribly tight or laughably loose clothes for significant spans of time.

Examples of the shirts made for my by Ray, Custom Shirtmaker in each fabric. The first is an off-white twill, the second a white herringbone and the third a white twill with a pretty pronounced weave. All three fabrics are cotton.

(Original size here)

A portion of the left sleeve of each, to slightly better show the patterns and colors of the cloth. The cuff is mitred.

(Original size here)

The collar and Ray Custom Shirtmaker tag.

(Original size here)

A closer view of the placket, two buttons and the pocket. I elected for a French front.

(Original size here)

The right cuff, which is a mitred Frenched cuff.

(Original size here)

The back; note the darts, which were originally a result of the fittings. Mr. Nepomuceno said that he could include them on all shirts or cut them closer; I chose the darts as my understanding is that they could make future alterations easier, I sort of like the look and I usually wear a vest, so it hardly matters one way or another.

(Original size here)

The five pairs of trousers made for me by John DiPietro. All are wool super 140s and 150s; the black pair is a heavyweight twill with a pronounced, weave.

(Original size here)

One of the side pockets (the trousers lack, by request, back pockets). I forget what Mr. DiPietro calls these, but they’re effectively welted pockets. Mr. DiPietro favors a clean look without anything superfluous. His own trousers are similar, but have only internal money pockets. He also makes vests without adjusters on the back and jackets without buttonholes unless the client requests one.

(Original size here)

The fly, which has five buttons, and pleats; Mr. DiPietro calls this a, “continental closure.” It has two hook-and-eye closures on the waistband and a button fastener just below it. (I might as well note here that there are no tags identifying the maker; so I'm likely the only person who'll remember that Mr. DiPietro made these.

(Original size here)

The cuff.

(Original size here)

And now, a representative ensemble…

These pictures make me anxious; I feel pretty comfortable, although as noted my sense of fit is questionable, but they don’t quite look well, although nothing really can on such a sack of mashed potatoes.

Anyway, shirt by Ray Custom Shirtmaker, trousers by John DiPietro, necktie by Sam Hober, suspenders by Albert Thurston, shoes by Allen Edmonds (in need of a polishing) and body by too much cheese. (Seriously, a lot of cheese)

Seen from the front. (That is a fountain pen clipped to the pocket, because of course it is.

(Original size here)

Seen from the side.

(Original size here)

Seen from the rear. Despite everything else, in keeping with my heritage, I am minus an ass.

(Original size here)

I hope that this was worth all of the foregoing magniloquence.

Please stop me before I buy spatterdashes and a cane.

Meanwhile, to recall my other costly gamble, Joseph Genuardi has posted something interesting to his Instagram account. (*achem* I'm not going to be pointlessly coy, that's the cloth that I chose for the odd jacket that he's making for me; my first fitting is scheduled for June 22nd. In other news, I asked him to order cloth to make the blue Fresco suit a three-piece, because vests are my jam and I don't know what I was thinking)

Appreciate you sharing photos. I would ask him to clean up the back of those pants.

 

[EFV]

Had a first fitting for this double breasted suit in Fox summer herringbone fabric (can't remember which exactly). Changes that will be made: Decrease the shoulder extension + chest drape slightly. They will also nip the waist a bit and make the front slightly longer.

View attachment 1150673

Btw, this was the result;

 

[clothingfun]

Hello again and I hope everyone is well. I took a few photos at my first D&S trunk show appointment. This actually isn't my jacket, nor is it the fabric I selected. After taking measurements, the head cutter Nick De'Ath put a jacket (I suppose one could call it a "fitting jacket") on me and did a bunch of additional upper body measurements and such. I realize it's probably not that exciting to see photos of someone just putting a tape measure on me! However, I still thought it would be interesting and fun to share.

 

[The Chai]

2nd fitting with the facings placed

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

First fitting. It will be a two piece suit in Dormeuil Amadeus 365 navy hopsack, soft shoulders, cuffed trousers.

 

[Dannefalk]

Sartoria Cresent

A nice subtle pinstripe suit in the making:

A super nice vintage houndstooth:

A pair of trousers in a heavy vintage gabardine were picked up:

Mr F picked up this wonderful suit in navy twill:

And the maestro himself in a stunning double breasted jacket:

 

[dauster]

So I had my first appointment with Steve from Gentlemen's Footwear today - great experience liked him a lot. Getting a MTM Orazio Luciano sports coat with a wool/mohair fabric he recommended to achieve a light-weight (unlined) Neapolitan style sports-jacket but that is also easy to deal with and somewhat wrinkle-resistant. We worked off of the Orazio sports coat below which I think already fits me quite decent but he will add 1.5 inches of length to the jacket, shorten the sleeves, only add one-button to the sleeve (I kind of like the look), patch pockets and he also said that one of my shoulders is about 1cm lower than the other. I also added a MTM Vanacore shirt but still shopping for the fabric I like. he said he should be able to get the same fabric as the Anna Matuozzo shirt in the picture from Instagram which I think is kind of like turquoise striped shirt.

 

[The Chai]

Cross post from
Black tie thread

 

[bdavro23]

So I had my first appointment with Steve from Gentlemen's Footwear today - great experience liked him a lot. Getting a MTM Orazio Luciano sports coat with a wool/mohair fabric he recommended to achieve a light-weight (unlined) Neapolitan style sports-jacket but that is also easy to deal with and somewhat wrinkle-resistant. We worked off of the Orazio sports coat below which I think already fits me quite decent but he will add 1.5 inches of length to the jacket, shorten the sleeves, only add one-button to the sleeve (I kind of like the look), patch pockets and he also said that one of my shoulders is about 1cm lower than the other. I also added a MTM Vanacore shirt but still shopping for the fabric I like. he said he should be able to get the same fabric as the Anna Matuozzo shirt in the picture from Instagram which I think is kind of like turquoise striped shirt.

If this fabric is from the Ariston book I am thinking about, it is a suiting fabric to me. Does this have more texture in person?

 

[dauster]

If this fabric is from the Ariston book I am thinking about, it is a suiting fabric to me. Does this have more texture in person?

It seems to be Ariston but I would say it almost pops more in terms of texture on the pic vs real life. when I saw it in daylight it had almost some grey shade to it but obviously still blue... below more details... if you scan the barcode it will pop up.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Second fitting. Trousers need some work but the jacket looks nice already. Looking forward to see the final result.