Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Dannefalk]

A few pictures from yesterdays trunk show with Sartoria Cresent. Not that many pictures but anyways.

Second fitting for my porter & harding navy herringbone jacket.

Trying on a finished coat. Tempting.

 

[IJReilly]

I had hoped to swing by the trunk show, but fate was not kind to me. I’ll catch them next time.

 

[bdavro23]

I really like the overcoat fabric and while typically I'm not a fan, that Houndstooth looks lovely. Thanks for sharing the pictures, I hope your fitting went well.

 

[reidd]

Guys I am headed to Napoli tomorrow and can't decide what I need. What's next for my wardrobe?

Current bespoke wardrobe:
Summer:
Navy Minnis Fresco BlazerSuit SB
Mid grey Crispaire trousers
Charcoal Minnis Fresco suit SB

Winter:
Brown/Green tweed jacket SB
Mid grey cavalry twill trousers

Obviously I have less for winter but plan on making another commission later this summer to fill a hole there (heavy navy blazer). For that reason I am leaning toward another summer item since I want to be able to wear right away. I am also dying to go for something DB. I am leaning toward tan linen suit since I'll be able to wear both item separately also...Too loud to go tan linen AND DB in the same piece?

 

[bdavro23]

Guys I am headed to Napoli tomorrow and can't decide what I need. What's next for my wardrobe?

Current bespoke wardrobe:
Summer:
Navy Minnis Fresco BlazerSuit SB
Mid grey Crispaire trousers
Charcoal Minnis Fresco suit SB

Winter:
Brown/Green tweed jacket SB
Mid grey cavalry twill trousers

Obviously I have less for winter but plan on making another commission later this summer to fill a hole there (heavy navy blazer). For that reason I am leaning toward another summer item since I want to be able to wear right away. I am also dying to go for something DB. I am leaning toward tan linen suit since I'll be able to wear both item separately also...Too loud to go tan linen AND DB in the same piece?

I am not very heat tolerant, so the idea of doing a summer jacket double breasted is a non-starter for me. I would go SB in the tan Fresco, or perhaps think about a shade off navy or brighter blue to bring some color to your wardrobe. 510253/4 are nice colors as is 510263, the brown color. Just my thoughts. Good luck with your order.

 

[reidd]

I am not very heat tolerant, so the idea of doing a summer jacket double breasted is a non-starter for me. I would go SB in the tan Fresco, or perhaps think about a shade off navy or brighter blue to bring some color to your wardrobe. 510253/4 are nice colors as is 510263, the brown color. Just my thoughts. Good luck with your order.

Thanks. I do like brown/tan frescos as well but feel like something a little different since I already have a couple frescos as is. I also have a bright-ish navy cashmere hopsack cloth which is kind of mid weight that I might have made up as transitional season blazer. To be honest, the blazer suit is much less ideal as a blazer than I thought it would be. Just feels much more suity than I though it would and I'm worried the browns would be similar. To me the linen seems easier to split up.

 

[classicalthunde]

Guys I am headed to Napoli tomorrow and can't decide what I need. What's next for my wardrobe?

Current bespoke wardrobe:
Summer:
Navy Minnis Fresco BlazerSuit SB
Mid grey Crispaire trousers
Charcoal Minnis Fresco suit SB

Winter:
Brown/Green tweed jacket SB
Mid grey cavalry twill trousers

Obviously I have less for winter but plan on making another commission later this summer to fill a hole there (heavy navy blazer). For that reason I am leaning toward another summer item since I want to be able to wear right away. I am also dying to go for something DB. I am leaning toward tan linen suit since I'll be able to wear both item separately also...Too loud to go tan linen AND DB in the same piece?

I love this picture of Joe Hemrajani in a H&S tobacco linen 6x1 DB suit. Its loud and I'm sure not everyone could pull it off, but it also stops short of being too costume-y. I think it would break up into a sport coat pretty well for some off-white trousers

 

[reidd]

I love this picture of Joe Hemrajani in a H&S tobacco linen 6x1 DB suit. Its loud and I'm sure not everyone could pull it off, but it also stops short of being too costume-y. I think it would break up into a sport coat pretty well for some off-white trousers

View attachment 1144516

I think so too. This is the exact cloth I have: http://www.dugdalebros.com/Plain/product/6505-mid-fawn-plain/colour/mid_fawn_plain/page/214/

Ultimately went for that over the tobacco because it's less saturated and therefore much more subdued which I think will translate to more wearability (especially as separates). I am worried about it getting dirty quite easily though.

 

[ericgereghty]

I love this picture of Joe Hemrajani in a H&S tobacco linen 6x1 DB suit. Its loud and I'm sure not everyone could pull it off, but it also stops short of being too costume-y. I think it would break up into a sport coat pretty well for some off-white trousers

View attachment 1144516

Though certainly uncommon, I don't find this costumey at all. That said, I would never wear it as an odd jacket.

 

[tim_horton]

Guys I am headed to Napoli tomorrow and can't decide what I need. What's next for my wardrobe?

Current bespoke wardrobe:
Summer:
Navy Minnis Fresco BlazerSuit SB
Mid grey Crispaire trousers
Charcoal Minnis Fresco suit SB

Winter:
Brown/Green tweed jacket SB
Mid grey cavalry twill trousers

Obviously I have less for winter but plan on making another commission later this summer to fill a hole there (heavy navy blazer). For that reason I am leaning toward another summer item since I want to be able to wear right away. I am also dying to go for something DB. I am leaning toward tan linen suit since I'll be able to wear both item separately also...Too loud to go tan linen AND DB in the same piece?

I don’t think double breasted suits necessarily wear hotter than single breasted suits. It depends on the cut. A less structured DB will be fine - for me, anyway. And I don’t think a DB tan linen suit will be any louder than a SB in the same cloth.

 

[bdavro23]

I don’t think double breasted suits necessarily wear hotter than single breasted suits. It depends on the cut. A less structured DB will be fine - for me, anyway. And I don’t think a DB tan linen suit will be any louder than a SB in the same cloth.

All else being equal, a DB will definitely wear hotter than a SB. One, its always buttoned (or supposed to be), so there is less air circulating through the midsection. And two, there is simply more fabric. Whether or not it affects the individual is certainly a valid question.

 

[tim_horton]

All else being equal, a DB will definitely wear hotter than a SB. One, its always buttoned (or supposed to be), so there is less air circulating through the midsection. And two, there is simply more fabric. Whether or not it affects the individual is certainly a valid question.

I know that’s the prevailing theory and logically it makes sense but I haven’t found this to be the case with me, at least in any way that’s noticeable. Maybe I’m not sensitive enough to it. I typically keep my SB jackets buttoned anyway. I think the material used and how closely cut the jacket is play a much bigger role. I wouldn’t let this issue keep me from commissioning a DB linen suit.

 

[classicalthunde]

Though certainly uncommon, I don't find this costumey at all. That said, I would never wear it as an odd jacket.

Pardon, didn't mean to imply costume-y vs. too costume-y, poor choice of words on my part.

Every now and then when I want something loud I always lean into it and then find that aside from a very particular scenario that it is not possible to pull off in a normal situation without looking like a character (e.g. my thrifted seersucker jacket that I can pretty much only wear to the Belmont Stakes). What I meant to convey was I think that Hemrajani's DB tobacco linen suit would not fall into this trap and I could see it being used in a ton of different situations without looking out of place.

One of these days I want to get a Neapolitan-style suit done up in this cloth for summer weddings and events, but gotta knock out a few essentials first

 

[JJ Katz]

A suggestion re. the OP:

Why not go for a nice tobacco linen SB suit band keep the DB idea for the winter order? (maybe in a flannel chalk-stripe?)

 

[bdavro23]

Pardon, didn't mean to imply costume-y vs. too costume-y, poor choice of words on my part.

Every now and then when I want something loud I always lean into it and then find that aside from a very particular scenario that it is not possible to pull off in a normal situation without looking like a character (e.g. my thrifted seersucker jacket that I can pretty much only wear to the Belmont Stakes). What I meant to convey was I think that Hemrajani's DB tobacco linen suit would not fall into this trap and I could see it being used in a ton of different situations without looking out of place.

One of these days I want to get a Neapolitan-style suit done up in this cloth for summer weddings and events, but gotta knock out a few essentials first

Context is really important I think. Hemrajani's linen DB doesnt look out of place, in part, because he is a tailor. If he worked in a bank, wearing that suit would likely look out of place.