jonathanS
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Thanks a lot! That’s excellent insight and may explain why I’m having so much trouble with this particular commission.
Here’s what happened: I gave my Naples tailor the NMWA flannel and asked for a double breasted suit and a second pair of pants that I would use as odd pants. While cutting the suiting for the commissions, he noted that there was more than enough suiting left over for a jacket. So he asked if I wanted two suits instead. That sounded like a great idea (rather than waste the extra suiting) but needed to come up with something very different than my double breasted of the same suiting. I decided that a 1 button peak lapel was different enough from the DB to justify that second commission. That’s how I got to where I am. But I was still struggling with the pocket and shoulder preference (which, in large part, dictates the formality of the suit).
I think that you hit on why I was having so much trouble. My concern with doing something very different from my DB led me astray. The suiting is probably not well matched for the 1B PL configuration thus no shoulder/pocket combination felt right.
I’m going to cancel this second commission and just save the extra suiting as an unfounded liability until by DB wears out. Thanks for clarifying my muddled vision.
P.S. I do own a 3 piece 1BPL in a dark (not quite navy) subtle nailhead pattern made by Despos. I really like the configuration but will save it for a more appropriate suiting.
What about a dinner jacket?