Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Flake]

Only for trousers and if you are in Chicago, Dallas or NYC.

In Dallas next week with Daniel Wegan and Wil Whiting

NYC end of the month.

Best maker of trousers in the business

 

[Mr. Six]

View attachment 1968205

a humble suggestion from standeven’s heritage twist. not the exact same but similar affect.

Nice, but seems lack the presence of the vintage stuff. I'll put it on the list, though.

 

[JHWilliams]

Wish mills would weave some of these vintage cloths again. I guess that's the motif for LL cloth.
Had a cloth with the same pattern as Crispy's but in taupe/grey. It was gorgeous. Didn't last long.
Mohairs from the 70's were so different in color ways and patterns than what is available at present. More interesting earth tones.

The ready to wear market and a good amount of the made to measure business are only interested in flimsy tissue paper cloth. They definitely are in the majority while we bespoke cloth aficionados are in the minority.

Merchants usually don’t want to be bothered with small runs, which is why there is such a shortage of heavyweight old school cloth and high quality “lumbs” bunches as they USED to be. .

Any mill would be willing to do a small run of cloth, but it takes time, effort, sometimes yarn sourcing, and organization from a third party to make it happen.

London Lounge is limited to what Lovat Mill is able to produce. Overall, there are some wonderful offerings, but very limited.

 

[brax]

The ready to wear market and a good amount of the made to measure business are only interested in flimsy tissue paper cloth. They definitely are in the majority while we bespoke cloth aficionados are in the minority.

Merchants usually don’t want to be bothered with small runs, which is why there is such a shortage of heavyweight old school cloth and high quality “lumbs” bunches as they USED to be. .

Any mill would be willing to do a small run of cloth, but it takes time, effort, sometimes yarn sourcing, and organization from a third party to make it happen.

London Lounge is limited to what Lovat Mill is able to produce. Overall, there are some wonderful offerings, but very limited.

London Lounge is not limited to Lovat. I have LL made by Fox and Malloy and at least one other mill in addition to Lovat.

 

[Despos]

Here's an up close. Mini squares with 2 or 3 different color threads in each square. Brown and grey.

View attachment 1968223

Brown; double breasted suit or light weight topcoat
Middle grey; SB, 3 piece suit with the option to wear the jacket with winter white flannel trouser or wear the jacket with charcoal grey flannel trouser.
Bottom black & grey; suit worn as separates. Odd jacket and a trouser to wear with sweaters.
Personally, would only want the brown of these three and I like the cloth/suit Crispy was wearing in his fitting best of all.

 

[Despos]

The ready to wear market and a good amount of the made to measure business are only interested in flimsy tissue paper cloth. They definitely are in the majority while we bespoke cloth aficionados are in the minority.

Merchants usually don’t want to be bothered with small runs, which is why there is such a shortage of heavyweight old school cloth and high quality “lumbs” bunches as they USED to be. .

Any mill would be willing to do a small run of cloth, but it takes time, effort, sometimes yarn sourcing, and organization from a third party to make it happen.

London Lounge is limited to what Lovat Mill is able to produce. Overall, there are some wonderful offerings, but very limited.

You are correct, very small audience for these vintage weights and cloth

 

[aristoi bcn]

From what I see in social media, A&S current standard cut looks like this:

This silhuette, again based on the few examples that can be seen in social media, is quite different to what seems to be the standard cut of Steed nowadays.

Steed seems to favour a more nipped waits, more open quarters and more belly on the lapels. What is your view?

 

[SimonC]

Frankly I find both very anodyne compared to the distinctive silhouette that A&S used to have. The difference, I suspect, is that Steed would still be able to cut that way based on the client’s preference whilst A&S seem to have lost their way.

 

[JHWilliams]

The ready to wear market and a good amount of the made to measure business are only interested in flimsy tissue paper cloth. They definitely are in the majority while we bespoke cloth aficionados are in the minority.

Merchants usually don’t want to be bothered with small runs, which is why there is such a shortage of heavyweight old school cloth and high quality “lumbs” bunches as they USED to be. .

Any mill would be willing to do a small run of cloth, but it takes time, effort, sometimes yarn sourcing, and organization from a third party to make it happen.

London Lounge is limited to what Lovat Mill is able to produce. Overall, there are some wonderful offerings, but very limited.

London Lounge is not limited to Lovat. I have LL made by Fox and Malloy and at least one other mill in addition to Lovat.

That was a long time ago.

 

[JHWilliams]

From what I see in social media, A&S current standard cut looks like this:

View attachment 1968293 View attachment 1968295
This silhuette, again based on the few examples that can be seen in social media, is quite different to what seems to be the standard cut of Steed nowadays.

View attachment 1968299 View attachment 1968301
View attachment 1968303
View attachment 1968305

Steed seems to favour a more nipped waits, more open quarters and more belly on the lapels. What is your view?

When I first considered going bespoke, I had narrowed it down to three tailors.
A & S was definitely on the list, until I heard they have strayed from their old cut and attention to detail.

Steed was way too nipped in the waist for my taste on just about every jacket I have seen posted. Their one piece back was definitely if interest, but I have heard of many fit issues with them.

Steven Hitchcock was everything about the old A & S I was looking for with some flexibility. I made the right decision.

 

[lordsuperb]

Steven Hitchcock was everything about the old A & S I was looking for with some flexibility. I made the right decision.

Here’s an interview where he mentions his cut now reflects the old kilgour silhouette.

 

[jonathanS]

The ready to wear market and a good amount of the made to measure business are only interested in flimsy tissue paper cloth. They definitely are in the majority while we bespoke cloth aficionados are in the minority.

Merchants usually don’t want to be bothered with small runs, which is why there is such a shortage of heavyweight old school cloth and high quality “lumbs” bunches as they USED to be. .

Any mill would be willing to do a small run of cloth, but it takes time, effort, sometimes yarn sourcing, and organization from a third party to make it happen.

London Lounge is limited to what Lovat Mill is able to produce. Overall, there are some wonderful offerings, but very limited.

I can’t recall, how does the wabi Sabi cloth look, from LL.

 

[JHWilliams]

Here’s an interview where he mentions his cut now reflects the old kilgour silhouette.

Kilgour of old was very similar to A&S. The shoulders and drape were almost identical. I have seen a lot sh*t from A & S over the last few years. A friend of mine was wearing his new double breasted house flannel suit: he looked like a cased sausage. The shoulders also appeared to be different from their traditional styling

 

[The_Schmidt]

Third and final fitting for my linen suit was yesterday. Fabric is "Bleuet", 100% linen, 330g from Maison Hellard:

Trousers:

I chose the darker buttons, but the picture is a bit off with the colours anyways:

 

[Cotillion]

From what I see in social media, A&S current standard cut looks like this:

View attachment 1968293 View attachment 1968295
This silhuette, again based on the few examples that can be seen in social media, is quite different to what seems to be the standard cut of Steed nowadays.

View attachment 1968299 View attachment 1968301
View attachment 1968303
View attachment 1968305

Steed seems to favour a more nipped waits, more open quarters and more belly on the lapels. What is your view?

Just my personal preference but those Steed cuts look weird. That waistline is too exaggerated for my taste. Doesn't look comfortable.